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Need a wiring Guru for 1981 XJ750 Seca project

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by skiprrdog, Feb 18, 2016.

  1. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Hey Everybody,

    I am at a place where I just have the electrical to wrap up on this bike, but it is going to be a slow go, I think. When I got the bike, the previous owner got to the point where he stripped the entire wiring loom, and then basically took the right handlebar control, and cobbled together the connectors/connections he needed to turn the motor over, and get spark at the plugs (or not, so kill switch worked). So what I basically have is a pile of spaghetti for I guess basic motor operation, but no ignition switch, and absolutely no lighting wiring whatsoever. I am taking baby steps here and am going to start with an ignition switch, just generic off/on and a new fuse box, just a generic one.

    My first question is, on the wiring diagram I have for it, it shows a red wire and grey wire going to the fuse box, from the keyed ignition switch.. The red wire goes to the main fuse, so I am guessing that is an always on 12V connection? The other one, the grey one is the one I am confused about. It appears to loop over, connect to the other three fuses... am I correct in assuming that when the switch is turned from off to on, that the switch takes the constant 12V and then feeds it to the bottom three fuses?
     
  2. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Huh, not sure how I managed to get two spots for this one post...oops!

    Here is a picture of my restoration project.
    750_0205_2.JPG
     
  3. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    yes the 12 volt main fuse is always hot
    battery to main fuse to key then wire runs back to balance of fuses and a third wire runs to tail light and plate light which are always on
     
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  4. Blackfnttruck

    Blackfnttruck Member

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    Can't tell from the pic, is the rear exhaust brushed? if so did you use a scrub pad on it? looks good.
     
  5. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Thanks for the reply. Yes, I see the third (blue) wire... I am not reinstalling the Atari, so I dismissed that wire, but the inline fuse is a giveaway. Not planning on re-installing any of the relays, except for the headlight one.
     
  6. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Thank you. Yes, the entire exhaust system has a brushed type finish. I tried with sanding sponges and varying grades of paper, that works, but is a lot of elbow grease. So I took a small 4" grinder, with one of those heavy, rope type wire wheels on it. Makes quick work of it, looks awesome, and actually eliminates the need for any polishing of the chrome! Kinds of gives it a brushed-steel, steampunk kind of look.
    I also brushed the chrome on the XS turn signals, but that was by hand, with sandpaper. Ill post some better pics.
     
    Last edited: Feb 18, 2016
  7. Blackfnttruck

    Blackfnttruck Member

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    Thanks, that would be great. I've also tried different things, this chrome is tough. I ended up bead blasting my head light surround to see what would happen.. I didn't like that so I ended up painting it. I would love to know what sand paper you used and a pic of the rope wire wheel.
     
  8. ThinkingTime

    ThinkingTime Member

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    Looking good, love the hints of blue.

    I have a complete harness for a 81 xj750 seca if you need, just pm.

    What shocks did you choose?
     
  9. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    this will help you
    m1csRY7.jpg
     
  10. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam

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    That diagram would be a good start, you'll need to keep the white wire and diode from the generator to trigger the relay for the headlight. You wiring from scratch or keeping the existing and modifying as needed?
     
  11. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    It's a good look. Imo give the YICS emblems on the mill covers a hint of blue.

    Gary H.
     
  12. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    So no turn signals then?
     
  13. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Any kind of sandpaper will work, I had a bunch of like 100/120 grit sanding sponges, they worked pretty well, or bits of 320,400 grit wet or dry, wrapped over a sanding sponge, to experiment with looks.

    Here is a picture of a wire wheel, you can get them at Home Depot/Lowes, or probably cheaper on fleaBay. Stay away from Harbor Freight, theirs are not good. This is far and away the fastest, easiest way, but if you have not done it, be careful. Don't be like the idiot who owns this one, and use the guard on it. No loose clothing, these can grab a bit of shirt and claw up your torso faster than you can say *ouch*( don't ask me how I know :))
     

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  14. Blackfnttruck

    Blackfnttruck Member

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    Thanks for the info.
     
  15. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Thank you. Ill keep the harness in mind (and thanks for the offer) right now I am going to try it from scratch, and hopefully it works out that way:)
    I have not swapped out the shocks yet, there are some Konis on there now that will work at least temporarily.

    --XJ550H Thanks for the diagram, that will help.
    --jayrodoh Wiring from scratch... see how that works out!
    --Gary H Thanks. Yeah, I am going to do something with those emblems
    --k-moe, absolutely turn signals! In my picture I have the rear ones mounted, they are the big round Yamaha ones from an XS1100. I want to give the guy in the Peterbilt or the soccer mom in her SUV, texting, barreling up behind me, *every* opportunity to see my signals.
     
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  16. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam

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    Oh yeah, I know. I was using one of these on my frame without a guard, caught my glove and tore my fingers up. Decided to get it blasted and coated after that.
     
  17. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    I got off easy... it only made it about a foot or less, happened to have my foot on the cord, so I unplugged it with a kick. Completely ruined the shirt, and gave me some tracks up my abdomen. No trip to the ER, luckily :)
     
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  18. Steve M.

    Steve M. Member

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    It's all good remember chicks dig scars :cool:
     
  19. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Gave her a major kick in the tailpipe today. I think I have most of the wiring done, except for lighting, just a couple connections tomorrow, do the grounds. If it does not blow up at that point, then Ill do the lighting :)
     

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  20. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Wrap that harness up after it's all been tested. I'd hate to see all that work end up damaged by rubbing-through on the frame.
     
  21. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    You and me both... Ill either tape it up or find some loom material to put it in. Doing this just *once* will be more than enough fun for me :)
     
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  22. Blackfnttruck

    Blackfnttruck Member

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  23. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Yeah, thanks.I have used that before, but on cars/trucks, never on a bike.
     
  24. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    I decided to knock off early and do a happy dance because after getting the ignition side completely hooked up, It turns over and I have a nice blue spark: woo-hoo!

    Also finished the valve adjustment today, had to buy one size I did not have (six of the eight needed adjustment!), front brakes are on. Tomorrow going to hook up the carbs before I put them in, one final test to ensure no leaks, then put them in, and possibly see if this bad boy runs!
     

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  25. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Well, crikey, I did not see that one coming. Hooked the carbs up to a fuel supply, and not just one but ALL FOUR carbs started leaking out of throats within ten seconds or so. And it gets better... all four of the float bowl drain screws seem to be seized, when I tried to get them out to wet set them. Already read through a few threads on that subject here, seems to be a fairly common occurrence, so I guess I don't feel special. Time to go a hunting for my easy outs...
     
  26. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    If you've sprayed them with penetrating oil try heating the area prior to using the easy out.

    Gary H.
     
  27. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    +1. Avoid using an extractor until you've tried everything else.
     
  28. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Yes, the easy outs are a tool of last resort. I found some of that PB Blaster when I was in the dollar store the other day, so I have had them soaking, both inside and out, since this morning. Tomorrow Ill take one of my screwdrivers and grind the business end until it is an exact fit on the screw, light up the little butane torch and go for it. Has to work, I am NOT buying any float bowls :) Worst case scenario I guess I could drill an entirely new hole and tap it for a new screw/bolt?
     
  29. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Only if you have the means by which to cut a seat for the new drain screw to seal against.

    You'll get the screws out. It just takes time and patience.

    If you end up needing to use an extractor here's two tips.

    1. Through-drill the screw (starting with a bit that is undersixe for what the extractor needs) to relieve some of the clamping stress from the threads.

    2. If the extractor starts to deflect, stop! A broken extractor is a royal PITA to deal with at home. Instead continue to slowly drill out the screw until you can pick out the remaining screw bits from the threads.
     
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  30. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    erwin #1 exrtactor is what I have used but I soak them daily switching from filling drain hole, spray screw head, then from inside.
    heat try to remove soak some more I only use the exrtactor after i mess up the head of the screw
     
  31. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Done! Thanks for the inputs, guys. I ended up using a Craftsman extractor on the first three. After soaking/heating and applying the screwdriver, the heads, which were buggered up from PO, got completely buggered up. The only one that came out normally was the fourth one.
    Now to wet set them. Being that the threads for those screws are recessed a bit, none of the little adapters I have made for wet setting will thread in. I did notice that some small OD clear tubing I had, approximately 1/4", I was able to just jam it into the hole, and that might work. What do you guys use to do this?
     
  32. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Well, the wiring is almost done. I got the new headlight on, wired up, put on a horn, and wired up the rear tail/brake light.
    Since I do not have an auxiliary light on the bike, I used that switch on the right control for a main on/off for the headlight, so that when I am starting the bike, there is no current drain for the light as on stock setups. All I have left is turn signals.

    Question for the electric guys; I have deleted the side stand relay and am wondering what to do with the black/yellow wire from the TCI that would normally connect to it. I am guessing that I should just ground it out... will that work?

    Thanks in advance!
    Skip hl.jpg
     
  33. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Ummm... you don't jam anything into the drain screw holes. You fit the tubing OVER the drain spigot (the bit in the top-middle of this pic).
    [​IMG]


    EDIT. I just noticed that was an old question. Let's call this a response to future readers.
     
  34. Rooster53

    Rooster53 Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    The wire from the side stand relay to the TCI (black/white) should be left open. The side stand relay applies a ground to that point to disable the TCI if the bike is not in neutral and the side stand is down.
     
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  35. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    I did not know that, never worked on these carbs before.
     
  36. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Cool, it is already disconnected, so Ill leave it alone. Finished the bulk of the wiring this morning, turn signals working. One thing I do have left, I have been putting off because I know it is going to be a pain in the rear , is the hookup for a neutral light. When I first took out the engine, I pulled apart the connector for the oil light, no problem. I guess I assumed there was one of those bullet connectors on the sky blue wire, apparently not...I was tugging on it, and ended up with the little bit of wire where it goes into the small loom right there, and a bare copper wire, no connector. At the time I thought, Ill worry about it later, well later is today! Had I known the extreme hassle of getting to that part at the time, I would have fixed it then. Looks like Ill have to take the exhaust off, and maybe jack up the front of the motor a little bit to gain access?
     
  37. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Awesome, thank you.
     
  38. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    I just noticed this comment and feel the need to clarify. The stock headlight arrangement utilizes a relay that keeps the headlight off until after the engine starts.

    Question: Did you wire the Aux switch directly to the headlight, or is It triggering a relay? If you wired it direct, it's not going to last for long.
     
  39. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Yes, I actually knew that about the headlight, by the time I noticed my comment, it was too late to edit.
    Just wired the switch up straight, but I am going to put a relay in, just need to get to the autoparts store. I have several relays that were in the bottom of the box that some of the bike came in, not sure what is what.

    I need to get at the neutral switch so I can re-attach the wire that I pulled off. I read here about the custom sockets and all, but man it still looks pretty tight under there.
     
  40. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    nice bling on the headlight bucket can you post a view from above. are the extras your indicator lights?
     
  41. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    You don't need a socket to get the wire hooked up; that's just for removing the switch. You will have to remove the exhaust (yes, the whole thing) to get to the screw that the wire terminal attaches to.
     
  42. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Well, that is good news...except for the exhaust part :)
     
  43. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    IMG_1222.JPG
    Here is a picture. The two red jewels were already on it, going to make one the oil light and the other the stop indicator. I will probably drill it to add two more, a yellow one for turn light and a green one for neutral. The round chrome thing in between the two red lights is a flip up cover for the ignition switch.
    I really like the look, the idea was to clean up that whole area. The problem I am having now is finding a speedo that will work. The opening is a standard 3 3/8"/85mm. I guess I underestimated the difficulty of finding one that would accept the threads on my existing speedo cable, and of course work with the gearing ratio(s). I am currently leaning towards one of those GPS speedos. More than I wanted to spend, but would solve above mentioned problems. Until then Ill probably take my Garmin Forerunner off of my mountain bike and use that for a speedo :)
     
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  44. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Acewell makes a nice unit that would slot right in. It uses a magnetic pickup for the speedometer, and yes it is expensive.
     
  45. XJ550H

    XJ550H Well-Known Member Premium Member

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    in the other photo it looks like you have 2 orange signal lights mounted to bucket . Still a very nice setup
     
  46. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    Thank you. Yes, they are four lights off of a 1980 xs1100 parts bike I picked up. I think they look cool, and most importantly, they are *bright*!
     
  47. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    I have heard of them, but have not checked them for this project yet, until now. Thanks!
     
  48. skiprrdog

    skiprrdog Active Member

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    So, I got my carb parts from Chacal and put them in over the weekend. Hooked them up to some fuel, and I still had one (#2) carb leaking. Bummer. New needles in all four, and I had 'zestfully' cleaned the valves when I was cleaning the carbs for the sixth time. So I had an idea. I took about six q-tips, broke one end off and chucked them in a cordless drill, dipped them in Blue Magic, and got all crazy with them... and it WORKED! Small Dremel polishers would work, but I dont have any, and the Q-Tips worked like a charm. Two days in a row I let them sit for about an hour hooked up to gas, and no leaks...yay! IMG_1247.JPG
     
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  49. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Did you replace the float needle seat gaskets? Better to do that now than later.
     
  50. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    +1. Why is the fuel supply lower than the carbs?

    Gary H.
     

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