where can i buy a new chain

Just got a new Maxim 1982 550 24,000 mi and it needs a new rear wheel chain badly. Has anybody purchased a chain of the internet and was happy with it? If so, do you have the link handy? Much obliged!

Joe

 

Surprised nobody responded to this easy question...

I believe you need a 530x104 chain.

You have choices (from least to most expensive):

standard
extra strength
O-ring
X-ring

The last two, I believe, have seals in each connection that help it last longer than an ordinary chain.

You can get it online:

Old Bike Barn
Z1 Enterprise
JP Cycles

JP Cycles has different colors (selling for Harleys but I think it will fit on yours since it's the same, 530x104)

I ordered mine from Old Bike Barn and got one with 106 links. Instead of returning it and dealing with them, I just cut the last 2 links off with a dremel and cut-off wheel.

It is often recommended that whenever you replace the chain, you replace both front and rear spockets as well. If you don't, the chain will wear out faster.

Good luck!

 

Oh, for a rear sprocket, you have two choices: 45-tooth or 46-tooth.

On my Seca, the 46-tooth gear was stock. I didn't know about Japanese bikes and On-line markets as much as I do now so I got 45-tooth instead.

The only difference is the gearing ratio.

Z1 Enterprise has both 45 and 46. Old Bike Barn has only 45.

I realize I didn't finish explaining about different color chains that JP Cycles sells. You can buy a chain that has links colored in red, blue, black, etc.... It's an x-ring type, I think. Expensive but would look neat.

 

Thanks Ciscobird, that was very helpful.

--

Joe, You need a 530-104. Go to the link below for choices. Thanks
http://www.motorcycleonlinestore.com/d_ ... _chain?b=1

Ron Watmore, Sales
Robin Marsh, Sales
Motorcycle Online Store
1-800-380-6016

 

Well, the story continues. I ordered a DID50VA and it turns out that the connecting link requires a rivet tool (KM500) that costs more than the chain. While a rivet type is superior to the clip type connecting link, please be aware of the extra cost!

 

Turns out that my old chain lost its clips, and the rest of the pins fell out. This chain was sorry. So I definitely opted for the rivet type.

The story ends happily:

http://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-tools.ph ... ory_id=7.1

provides a substitute tool for the KM500 for $16. It's multipurpose: presses on the link plate, pushes out the old pins and squashes that rivet, depending on how you flip its "puzzle pieces" around.

Drive Chain Riveter Tool - Rivets high strength rear drive chain Rivet links with
hollow pin ends as on our IZUMI 530HT Chain ( Rivet link #56-0235 ) and many
DID brand chains. This quality tool is sold by Mikes XS at below cost.

Part #35-0006
$16.00 USD EA.

Thanks Mike!

 

From the school of been there done that. I have never had a problem with a clip type connecting link but I know folks who have. Sometimes the link is put on wrong and you can end up busting a case or even worse an ankle. Same thing can happen with a rivited chain link if not installed correctly. Either way if you don't have experience please have someone looking over your shoulder who has done this type of work to guide you.

 

On an unrelated but similar note:

I ride a fixed gear bicycle, and I know that when dealing with front versus rear sprockets (chain ring versus cog on a bicycle) that's how the gear ratio is changed (by changing one or the other). Anyway, some people in the bicycle world are dead-set on the idea that running odd-odd or even-even size chainring and cog will cause stress and fast wear on a chain, so most common setups are odd-even or even-odd. Although I've heard these many times, nobody's ever been able to successfully back it up with information for me on WHY that would be the case. Is there any truth to these, and if so, would it apply to a motorcycle?

I ask because on my partner's Seca 550 we've debated changing the gear ratio slightly to get better highway mileage and not be quite as wound-out on the interstate. Nothing major, just one or two teeth so it's not screaming its head off at 80 mph. Do I need to worry about not having even-even sprockets, or is really just a myth some crazy track cyclists insist on propogating?

 

I think you have a myth.

 

I've always thought so too (and I run 46x16 on my bike... with no problems at all) but the amount of people buying into the myth made me wonder if there was some truth based behind it.

Maybe I'll submit the question to Mythbusters, haha.