Introduce myself

Hey guys,


Thought I would introduce myself to you all. My name is Marcos and I hail out of Southern California. Attached is a pic of my 1982 XJ750 Seca. I have since removed the fairing and installed MX bars on it for a lower "tracker" feel.Currently need to change out the valve cover gasket and clean out the starter. Hoping to install a small bar style LED headlight and lower the Atari speedometer so that it runs in a straight line and tucked to the light bar. I also plan on putting either wider MX bars or clubmans on.



I ride around the OC/LA border and you guys can catch me on the 405 speeding to work.

 

nice bike.
I speed away from work and drive very slowly to it.
and of course its time to go to work

 

Thank you,



Luckily for me I enjoy what I do. Plus the ride back is usually on PCH with a great view of the ocean.


Attached is a pic of the MX bars from my old 1985 XL350 , sadly the cables are tighter so I might switch to clubmas s or wider protaper bars.




CURRENTLY LISTENING TO:

 

Those brake lines....what are the date codes?

I like the bars. Get cables made to suit.

 

Before you say More, I know. The date is probably past expiration and it would be best to get some in the correct shortened length. The bars are quite good for street riding and still let me ride through traffic (Ca) without issues. Anything past 70 MPH and the wind really starts kicking up. I plan on making the front a little less "loud".

 

Get the side covers and tail cowl to match the front color

 

The height of the ATARI acts as a flyscreen (and it does contribute to the noise). You may find that you'll want a small windscreen after you lower the ATARI.

I've been thinking obout how you will accomplish the lowering, and the only way I can think of doing it is to make a new mounting bracket for the ATARI, but that would also require pushing the ATARI further out in front of the top yoke (though if done carefully it would not be much further forward).

Have you considered making a housing for the systems monitor and using fully-electronic gauges instead? That would be more work, but would also lower the gauge cluster without having it stick out the front further.

In either case, I can see where your idea will freshen up the front-end and still keep the rectangular look. I might have to copy your idea

 

I would most likely create a separate bracket which would either mount below the Atari holes or at least allow it to come down. I forgot to mention that this is the light I plan on installing ,which, if installed would let me lower the atari while keep it flush.


http://www.amazon.com/autvivid-Driv...TF8&qid=1449941433&sr=1-9&keywords=led+bar+36


The brackets from left to right are 7 inches so it would go in place of the stock headlight. And it has hi/low for actual road use.

 

this is what i did to the front of my seca http://i.imgur.com/232fpHV.jpg
that light is going to light up from your fender to the tree tops and oncoming cars are going to hate you.
there is a difference when the atari comes off. If you look at the Renthal site they have dimensions of a lot of bars. if the rise is too short the tank is in danger

 

+1 on the problems with that light. It has no beam cutoff; it's a flood light.
If it's not DOT certified you shouldn't use it on public roads.

 

True, I do want something like that but I guess I have to look for something with a directional beam. I'm looking into something like that with at least 36 watts. I ride with high beams all the time s the directional spot light even at 36 would be my all around light and the high beam would only be used in emergencies.


Thanks for the heads up on the direction of the beam, this will help with finding a suitable LED style light. Also, after riding on the roads I've come to the decision that I'm going clubmans on the bike. The wind plus commuting I do call for a lower bars so I will go with SS lines once I switch the bars.

 

Good news,


The bike started having issues starting (drum roll) and was giving me the symptoms of a dirty starter. So I bought parts last week and as of this morning the starter is clean new and rebuilt.






As it turns out the old magnetic pickups had completely worn out and there was gunk inside the thing. Glad to have it running and now I plan on changing the valve gasket this coming week.

Sorry for the bad pics, my lady took the nice camera to work and now i'm stuck with a shitty camera phone.

 

Those are the motor brushes. They are made of carbon. Nothing magnetic about them. Replacing them was the right thing to do.

 

WOOT WOOT!



I just changed out the rubber valve cover gasket and painted the top with VHT beforehand. Now the top end looks clean and the overall throttle responds better. I think the extra air coming in from the old leaking gasket really made throttle response sluggish.

 

Ummm.... the valve cover gasket has no effect at all on the throttle. There is no pathway from the valve case into the intake tract.

 

Dang....onto the carb boots!

 

Oi


So I was going over a the valve leak I was having and found a leaky carb boot at #4. So my question is can I technically loosen the air-box and carbs so that the boots can come off and be replaced or would I have to remove the air-box to get enough clearance?


I'm looking to replace the #1 and #4 boots so I would only need to have enough room to get those cracked puppies out.

 

You do need to loosten the airbox mounting bolts, and push the airbox boots into the air box to get room to remove the carbs.
You can repair the leaking intake boots with a thorough scrubbbing and the liberal application of black RTV. If you do go ahead and replace the intake boots, I'd reccomend replacing them all, and being cautious when removing the mounting screws as they have a tendency to snap off (Use plenty of penetrating oil).

 

WILL DO!


I was also looking into doing the old RTV/bicycle tube trick. If I can pull that stuff back and get them all done it would definitely save me a lot of cash!

 

Hi guys,


Sorry for the delay in updates. My GF just bought herself a Honda CM450 so i've moved onto getting that thing prepped and 100%. I recently pulled the rear drum apart since it was sticking and had the thing back on. I also cleaned out the front caliper,flushed gunk out, then bled. So both brakes work better now. Her front MC has a crappy design so the brake pistons won't retract very well. She's going to get lower bars and we are going to swap out the lever/mc and do a rebleed with a shorter SS line.



On that note, I would like to shorten my cables to match the length of the current MX bars that I have posted up on this page. Does Chacal sell shorter clutch and brake levers that would fit the 750? I want to buy something from him and not have to go to a shop to have them shortened.

 

Wow, that's a LOT of grease on the brakes.... I hope none gets on to your drum or linings----

 

you need to clean that grease off the pivot points of the brake shoes a little goes a long way , a lot will make it hard to stop.
chacal lists the length of cables and has levers
look in his catalog or supporting vendor thread
XJ PARTS CATALOG, SECTION M: CONTROL CABLE AND HAND LEVERS

 

Cool, thanks guys!



So I wrapped the intake boots with gasket maker and bicycle tubes. The leak is still persistent and I did notice some black grime inside the carb near the butterflies when i shifted them aside to reinstall the carb boots. I was reading into what could cause the leak and saw that a big issue could be o-rings and throttle shaft that rot with time. I was wondering before I take my carbs apart for new o-rings and such does anybody in the Los Angeles area have the tools necessary for a colortune on the YICS system?



Since i'll be taking them apart,cleaning , and adjusting I don't need to buy the tools but just use them for a couple of days. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

 

Also,


If I bench sync, do I still have to colortune the carbs?


NEVERMIND!



K-moe
"A bench synch just gets you close (sometimes spot on if all the cylinders and valves have equal wear). You will still need to do a running synch with your preferred vacuum comparison device."

 

Oi


Anybody want this?


I switched over to a gravity style petcock as well as upgrading the fuel line and adding a filter in between.

 

Yes, please!

 

(deep metallic voice)
"Horde is hungry for XJ parts..."

 

All XJ petcocks are gravity-style.

 

would love to play
Supermarket Sweep
in his garage

 

HI guys,


Long time since i've posted. So I finally figured out the dreaded leak in the carbs and as it turned out it was just the Gaskets that connect the boots to the engine block. I went ahead and rubberized the boots with a bicycle tube and sealant as well as used new pipe clamps, plus gaskets and the bike runs perfect now.


All in all the new set up feels NICE and the throttle response is way better. Now I have to take it to a local DIY bike shop and use some of the proprietary tools to sync the carburetors, change the wheel bearings, and swap out the old clutch plates.


I also collected a round headlight and will probably switch out the speedometer to something simple. I remember someone on here posted a great explanation on what needed to be cut and soldered together to remove the Atari set up. It was posted not to long ago but I have since lost it and cannot find it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instruments

is this it?

 

WOOOHOOO


THANKS DOG!

 

Grrrrrr woof woof

 

Hi guys, long time no talks.


I have an aftermarket speedo and headlight bracket coming in on Wednesday. I was wondering ,in terms of diodes, what the routing would be for the diode attachment. This version of speedo has a single line coming from the turn signal light.


Would it be need to have both the ground and regular wire ran through a diode or just the DG/CH lines ran through the diodes?


Also, I have an LED aftermarket relay laying around. Would this solve the issue?

 

If you are speaking of the turn signal indicator lamp then you want a diode on the hot wires that are coming from the turn signals into the indicator lamp. the gorund wires do not need diodes on them. The LED relay will not solve that problem, but you will need it in order to run LED turn sigmals without using load resistors.

 

Hey guys,

Ive done some cosmetic cleaning of the bike and now have it set up as a scrambler style XJ. Attached are some pics i took by the beach. Ive relocated the ignition under the tank, tucked all the cabling into the new headlight, slapped on some EMGO superbike bars and bar-end mirrors. The look and feel of the bike is so MUCH better.


I currently have a KZ750 brake line and splitter waiting for me in the kitchen. Once I pick out which MC i want to go with im going to ditch the crappy front brake set up and go from there.



PS: don't mind the dirty bike and rusty parts. I have a good cleaning planned for next weekend.
PPS: The speedometer cable is coming in the mail.

PPPS: dont sell stuff on ebay,ugh

 

Looks great. I like the striping and how the side covers are blacked out.

Crappy front brake setup? Weird to be sure, but crappy? Mine stops quite well (not modern supersports well though).

The front turn signals look like they could be rotated down a bit.

Have you given any thought to a small round LED spotlight to set where the fog light used to be? It would help hide the wiring loom, and would be a nice refrence to the original look.

 

HI


I actually kept the AUX cables. Im waiting to go with some crash bars so I can place some AUX lights on them.

 

So, i have changed out the lights to LED and ordered a flasher relay here LINK


The new relay does not work and only shows a sliver of light when the turn signal is on. I have since removed the new relay and just installed the old one. So I don't have flashing ,just a solid light.



Any thoughts to why this is happening? Maybe I have to switch out the composition of the three cables going into the relay?

 

SO,


I finally swapped out the whole MC conundrum of a system and went with a bar mounted MC. The handling is far better and feels livelier now. That and it actually brakes!



I showed a pictured of the splitter that I used. This was off a KZ750 and was shipped 15$ flat with all the lines included. The new 16MM MC cost 20$ and overall the switch was simple and easy.




The splitter ALMOST fit the stock holes for the XJ MC holder but were off by 1MM. I went and drilled the splitters holes one size up and used the XJ cable holder in conjunction. All that was done to the XJ cable holder that the removal of the barrels that come out, so that it would sit flush .













Attached is a pic of the splitter I mentioned.




PS DONT MIND THE BLUE CABLE/RUST/DIRT

 

So I took off the previous exhaust and they were completely rusted out. I even had to rip one out and fight them off. Finally finished taking them off and attached are a new pair of EMGO shorties.



1

 

So i ended up cleaning the carbs and following the churche of CLEAN.

WASN'T EASY!

The bike starts and runs a lot better after changing out the throttle seals and sealing up a hole in the diaphragm. WOOHOO

 

Why are you saying hello to the carbs?
Did they answer back?

 

some carbs don't know sign language, shove a screwdriver down it's throat and they get the message

 

O, they got the message!

 

WOOHOO


Got the carbs cleaned and ready!


I also rebuilt the calipers and added a dual line running from the MC to the calipers. The breaking feels a lot better and it stops without the aching hand.




On another note, does somebody have a Colortune in the LA area that they could maybe lend me for an hour while I tune the carbs a little better. I have the synch screws at 2 1/2 but would rather set them with the tool to have them running in perfect order.


thanks y'all, pics coming soon!