Semi functional turn signals

Hey guys/gals,
Recently I bought a 1982 maxim 650 off craigslist and have been loving it. The problem is I don't have a right turn signal. Whenever I switch it on I get fast clicks at the flasher relay. When I use my left, I get 3 or 4 fast clicks then it comes on.

This has me thinking that my wiring to the right, either front or rear, needs some attention but I've got another strange caveat. My left indicator will not work until I've tried the right. If I turn on my ignition and switch on my left blinker I get silence and darkness, if I try my right, cancel, and then try left, success.

I've tried replacing the flasher relay, checking the bulbs, and checking the battery output; all seem to be in good order. My question is does this sound like a wiring dilemma of is there something I'm not considering?

 

What relay did you replace it with? The Factory relay is propriety and unavailable new (and also repairable).

 

I pulled a relay out of another bike at a junk yard, same coding (fu257cd). I dismissed it because both relays yield the same result.

 

And both relays are old. Did you pull the cover off either and have a look inside for corroded points?

Other things to check (in this order)

The fuses and fuse clips (the fuse clips oxidize, embrittle, and ultimately crack, causing intermittant electrical failures)

The signal bulbs and bulb sockets (check for corrosion and good contact)

The self-canceling unit (under the fuel tank, about 3" long). Unplug it and see if the signals then work correctly (aside from not self-canceling).

The switchgear (again corrosion).

 

Valid, but both relays yielding the same half functional result seems unlikely unless that happens to be a common failing of that relay?

Fuses, clips, and bulbs are all good. Good call on the canceling unit, I'll check that next. Thanks!

 

I mentioned it for a reason. The signal relay is not a sealed unit and is prone to develop corrosion when allowed to sit unused for extended periods of time.

 

I definitely would check this out as well. I'm rebuilding an 82 and just disassembled the switch assembly. It was totally corroded internally and would most likely have had caused some issues with current transfer.

 

Switchgear for the win. Pulled it apart and honestly it didn't look corroded but all the same I cleaned it up and bingo. Turns signals fully functional. Thanks for the troubleshooting help.

 

Anytime. When you get the chance go though all of the contacts and connectors. If there is oxidation in one place.....

 

Definitely on the to do list, but as tradition, when I fix one problem I cause another. I must have twisted up my choke cable while putting the switchgear back on because now the bike only runs with full choke. Anything short of full and it sputters and dies, after properly warming up of course.

 

That's how old bikes go. It's fair to assume that everyhting will need to be inspected and tended to.

Go here: The Information Overload Hour
Do all of the things. Anything less will have you constantly chasing your own tail.


BTW. If she dies without the enrichment circuits (choke) engaged, the problem isn't going to be found in the choke, or the choke cable.

 

[QUOTE="BTW. If she dies without the enrichment circuits (choke) engaged, the problem isn't going to be found in the choke, or the choke cable.[/QUOTE]

Probably true but as it was the only change to a previously healthily running bike it's the first place I have to check; hopefully not ending at the carbs.