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Homemade fork tool

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by capy, Aug 15, 2007.

  1. capy

    capy Member

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    I just got my fork seals, dust boots and handlebars in. I am ready to rebuild the forks but am in need of the information for the tool to get the internal bolt out. I know I have seen it out here but can not find it anywhere in the search. Somebody used a welded nut and threaded rod. Can anyone desribe it or knows where the post is so I can go get the materials today?
     
  2. BlueMaxim

    BlueMaxim Active Member

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    I'm not sure if the 700N is 19mm but if it is then you can use two long extensions and a sparkplug socket turned around backwards to allow the hex on it's end fit the top of the damper rod.
     
  3. desmotom

    desmotom Active Member

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    I made my own tool by welding a 19mm nut on a metric cap screw and it worked slick.
     
  4. PSteele

    PSteele Member

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    I used a 30-inch threaded rod with 2-19mm nuts tig welded on the end. Covered the rod with plastic tube and heated then bent an 8-inch handle in the other end. Works so slick you won't believe it, plus it is a tool you can keep and loan or rent to others. Thanks to RickoMatic for this tip!
     
  5. Altus

    Altus Active Member

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    I thought the X's & possibly the N's had the 21mm bolt? Anyone confirm?
     
  6. PghXJ

    PghXJ Member

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    I just used a wooden broom handle. worked great for me
     
  7. schmuckaholic

    schmuckaholic Well-Known Member

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    A piece of electrical conduit, a 1/2-inch bolt (has a 3/4-inch head on it, which works out to 19mm) and a cotter pin.

    Drill a hole through the conduit and bolt, hold them together with the cotter pin. Fold the ends of the pin back against the conduit to prevent scratching the inside of the fork tube.

    (Courtesy of the XJ CD)
     
  8. gummyXJ

    gummyXJ Member

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    Anyone have pictures of there tool and how it works?

    Thanks
    Mike
     
  9. schmuckaholic

    schmuckaholic Well-Known Member

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    I don't have a spare fork tube to stick it into, but check this:
     

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  10. ridz

    ridz Member

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    Ride hard and live free!

    I did the same thing only I welded the bolt in the conduit..Cuts out the need for a welder though...good stuff there
     
  11. Altus

    Altus Active Member

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    I just used a piece of threaded rod about two feet long, put two nuts together with red locktite right down at the end, and torqued them together.
    A little bend in the top of the rod for a handle, and you're good to go.
     
  12. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    I spend a couple bucks and Vinyl Electric Tape those Cotter Pin ends.

    It is a good idea, though ... we all have some way of improvising things to get the job done.

    Cool.
     
  13. capy

    capy Member

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    Tried the 3/4 nut on end of "stick". It would not hold it. I even tried the back side of my 5/8 spark plug socket, neither worked. Upon peering down the tube, I can not see a hex head down there to get a grip on. I am about ready to use the broom handle thing but unsure how it will work going back together. Do I have the 21 mm on the 700. Any suggestions? Anyone have a pic of the piece already removed so I can see what I am dealing with before I damage something?
     
  14. Nick

    Nick Member

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    Ditto on the wooden stick!
     
  15. schmuckaholic

    schmuckaholic Well-Known Member

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    If a 3/4 inch/19mm nut won't grab it, then logic dictates you may indeed have a 13/16 inch/21mm. Best way to find out is to try it. If it works, let us know. :wink:
     
  16. Nick

    Nick Member

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    Well this is from my 750, hope it helps ...............
     

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  17. Maximator

    Maximator Member

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    I used the reversed spark plug method on my 650. It worked great on the first tube, but on the second it wouldn't grab. Turned out the PO had assembled the tube with the parts in a different order from the way they were on the first tube.

    The spring seat that sits on top of the main spring and supports the tube which provides preload pressure, was sitting on top of the portion of the damper rod where the 19mm nut is supposed to fit, and of course the socket wouldn't work. Turning the tube upside down and giving it a few good whacks caused it to fall out and everything was good after that.

    I mention this in case this thread comes up in a search for someone having similar problems in the future. Until you have the fork disassembled the first time it is hard to visualize what is inside the tubes.
     
  18. FinnogAngela

    FinnogAngela Member

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    For disassembly I used broomstick which I tapered a bit and whacked down tight. For reassembly a guy at work made a tool with a 22mm (as it turned out to be...) nut in each end of a metal rod.

    Pics of the broom handle and the "inside-hex" in the top of the damper rod:

    [​IMG]

    Good luck
     
  19. capy

    capy Member

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    Well the wooden stick won. I tried every sized bolt I could come across with no succes. I beat the dowel (from hardware store) into it and badda bing, out it came. Here is a picture of the dam_pin rod I hade such a problem with. hope it helps somebody else. Now off to the cleaners. One other thing.....Wow there are a lot more parts than I expected. Not sure if I need to start traking down more parts to make sure it is done right. Hope I can get this mess back together again. Be posting again real soon I am sure.
     

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