Two Issues - Carb and Steering Head

1) Bike is running close to perfect. When warm it is a dream. Is it normal for the idle to be a bit rough with the enrichment circuit on? When it first runs it takes a little while before I can remove the enrichment. While I am running with that on, it idles a bit rough. As soon as it is warm enough to run without it it is smooth as glass. I feel no shake or anything. Could this just be a "needs new plugs" problem? Or something else?

2) I am planning on changing the steering head bearings this weekend to tapered bearings. I read over all the instructions in the manual, and the XJ550 steering head lower nut uses a notched nut and a special tool which I do not have. It says I can use the tool, or an "easily improvised tool". So what does everyone else use? Just trying to gather some ideas instead of going at it with a flat screwdriver and a hammer.


Thanks in advance.

 

Well to answer #2, don't use a hammer and flat screwdriver or you could chip the screwdriver, use a punch instead . Seriously, I have used the hammer and punch method and it works ok, although most of the time I use a pipe wrench.

 

yeah I would use a punch. The pipe wrench sounds like a good idea.

 

1) thats just the way it is, new plugs can't hurt but i doubt they'll help that
2) that ring nut's not very tight, it's a adjustment, not a hold it together thing
seat the new bearings well and check for slack after a good ride

 

There is a $10 tool available from Mike's XS page. Hit the links, good stuff in there that works for our XJs as well. I carefully use a pair of channel lock pliers myself (ordering the correct tool at first opportunity).

 

1) Great...I kinda figured that is how it is. I'll tell you what after this mornings ride, I am convinced this thing is dialed in. It is running grrrrrrrreat! Polock, thanks for the o-rings, that seems to have been the problem all along with running lean and the hard hot starting.

2) Channel lock pliers is actually what I was going to use. There are absolutely no scuffs on the nut, so I am wondering if these bearings have ever been checked and repacked. I really hope this takes out the pogo and wobble I tend to get.

Thanks all, I'll report back once it is back together.

 

Well the tapered bearings are in no problem. That was rather easy. Old races punched right out and the head cleaned up nice. I took it for a ride, and it feels nice, but there still a small roughness at certain speeds (~30mph). I am wondering if it is because the brake pads drag on the rotor a little bit. When I spin the front wheel, it scrapes. Perhaps the calipers need to be cleaned and freshened up next.

any other thoughts? All new seals and fluid in the forks themselves.

 

Front wheel bearings in good shape?

Also check that the caliper is rotating freely to allow both pads to engage the rotor properly, they tend to stiffen up with old grease and dirt so that only the pad on the side with the caliper piston is doing the work.

 

all disk brakes drag, there is nothing to pull the pads back
if the roughness comes from the brakes, it would be there at all speeds
what gear ya in ?

 

The Enrichment Circuit is not: ON / OFF.

The Enrichment Circuit is Variable. Open it to start the Bike.
When the Engine Starts ...
Start closing the Enrichment Valves s-l-o-w-l-y.
Keep the Engine running smoothly without the whole supply of extra fuel going in.

Keep closing it until its off and the Engine is running on the Pilot Circuit Only.

 

yeah brand new wheel bearings, freshly balanced wheels/tires also. Forks rebuilt. Only thing not done is the brakes. Oh well it is not too bad...and I have lived with it for about a year now...

 

perhaps I am driving it wrong. It tends to happen when the rpms are around 3000-4000...so perhaps it is just engine lugging. The bike rides awesome other than this. It just bothers me.

 

one last thought. How tight should that nut be on the top of the steering head. I wasn't sure how tight to make it. When at center a little tap sends the handlebars falling to the lock. Perhaps I just have the steering head a little too loose? It says in the manual to make it just tight enough that it moves to the lock after an initial assist. wtf? I feel this is the most likely problem.

 

the tapered bearings tighten them till u feel drag while turning the bars and then loosen them till there is no drag and u should be good.

 

steering stem bolt - 30 ft/lbs - pretty tight
remember when they say, moves to lock after assist, thats with no wires or cables and it should just get there not pickup speed and slam into the stop
i'd say error to just a hair tight, in a month it'll be just right