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sticky turn sigal box. lube?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by kellenholgate, Sep 2, 2007.

  1. kellenholgate

    kellenholgate Member

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    the turn signal assembly on my bike works fine, only problem is that its pretty sticky, so it takes a bit of pushing to cancel a signal. Do you guys know if i can spray some wd40 in there and work it a little, or will that jack the unit up? if not is there an acceptable lube for this? otherwise i guess i'll just have to buy the whole assembly, but i'd rather not.
    k
     
  2. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    If you don't want to take the Handlebar Control apart ... buy some Electric Contact Parts Cleaner and shoot that in there.

    Clean it up; first.

    Then, hit it with some WD-40.
     
  3. coastie550XJ

    coastie550XJ Member

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    i had the same problem, but it was the right turn signal that would stick, the best thing to do is to open it up, (really easy and won't mess anything up it like three or four screws) And you are going to want to get the Electric Contact Parts Cleaner, and spray it on there.. wait til it dries and then test it out.. That was the way i did, you can buy this stuff from Radio Shack..
    People might not realize it but these can get really dirty in there, when i opened mine i could not believe how much dirt grime was in it.. Good luck hope this helped ya!
    Lindsey
     
  4. PghXJ

    PghXJ Member

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    best thing you can do is open up the handlebar switch assembly, blast it all clean with electrical parts cleaner then put a little dielectric grease on the electrical contacts and some white lithium grease on the slide of the turn signal switch. It makes that switch work like new.
     
  5. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I will have to respectfully disagree with shooting electrical contact cleaner in there Rick unless you are certain it won't harm the plastic of the button and/or mess up the paint. WD-40 will not harm either and does a respectable job of cleaning contacts with crud on them.
    Mind you Kellen, it won't clean corrosion, you will have to disassemble the unit to clean that. It isn't too scary a job but best avoided if possible. If you do disassemble it, be sure to wipe a little dielectric/silicone grease on the little metal contact to keep crud from growing on it anytime soon.
     
  6. kellenholgate

    kellenholgate Member

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    sweet....should've done that today whilst changing oil....i tightened up a loose chain and aligned the rear wheel and it drives wonderfully now.... now on to the the front forks.....
     
  7. PghXJ

    PghXJ Member

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    yeah, you will have to disassemble the switch assembly to shoot it with cleaner to allow all the grit and whatever else is in there to be cleaned away. It is really the only way to really clean it anyway.
     
  8. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Not the Plactic Unfriendly stuff.

    Contact Re-New ... the Stuff that deals with dirt, cleans it and evaporates like it was never there.
     
  9. Maximator

    Maximator Member

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    I had to take mine apart and use a little emery cloth on a few spots, but if it hadn't been left so long contact cleaner would have done the trick nicely.
     
  10. kellenholgate

    kellenholgate Member

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    i opened it up and sprayed it with some wd40.... its easier to move now, but still requires a lot of effort to push in...the switch gets hung up somehow... it seems like a pretty simple switch though....i'll pull it off and see what makes it tick. side to side is great now...its just pushing in. what did you have to polish up?
     
  11. Maximator

    Maximator Member

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    My problem was that not enough current was getting through the switch causing very slow flashing with a delay before starting. There was corrosion in a couple of spots I had to gently remove.
     
  12. kellenholgate

    kellenholgate Member

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    cool...mine seems a bit slow too... it starts quickly, but holds onto the light for a long time before reseting. i'll check for corrosion too. on todays ride to school, it was practically impossible to get the thing to cancel, I had to pull into a parking lot and use two hands to push it in, then used hand signals the rest of the way.

    thanks

    kellen
     
  13. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    Sounds like disassembly and cleaning are the ticket. Be sure to pay particular attention to the holes that the buttons stick out of, clear them of obstructions and so on. Your turn switch is dirty too, causes the "hung" light problem you describe.
    Donate an old toothbrush to the cause and get to scrubbing. Remember a little dab of antiseize on the screws when you reassemble.
     
  14. kellenholgate

    kellenholgate Member

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    thanks... will do tonight....
     
  15. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    There ought to be a Merit Badge for those who have disassembled the Handlebar Controls down to the last tiny ball bearing and reassembled it to Day One working condition.

    With the way some of those parts snap-fit together it can be a challenge for those who are all thumbs.

    I think I know a guy like that! : )
     
  16. PghXJ

    PghXJ Member

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    I had mine completely apart and rebuilt it. It isn't too, too bad. I just made a little diagram and laid all the parts out in the order they came off.

    TAKE YOUR TIME and BE PATIENT. Some of that stuff is delicate.
     
  17. Robert

    Robert Active Member

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    I can agree to that Rick. I've pulled my switches apart and it is a Chinese puzzle putting the little buggers back together again. I'm wading through a set right now on this 82 750. Amazing how much crud can build up from sitting. I tiddly-winked the ball bearing across the garage. Fortunately, a spare switch on hand saved me.
     
  18. PghXJ

    PghXJ Member

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    No doubt...The left handlebar switch on mine was filled with small pebbles and dirt. No wonder it sounded like I was grinding corn when I pushed to cancel.
     

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