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My 1980 XJ650 Project - Not Easy

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Palmer650#2, Mar 30, 2016.

  1. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    No gauge lights are not coming on w the key on or motor started.
     
  2. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Check the bulbs.
     
  3. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    image.jpg Is this the flasher canceling unit/relay? image.jpg Is this the headlight relay?
     
  4. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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  5. MN-Maxims

    MN-Maxims St. Paul Minnesota

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    This might even help more.
     

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  6. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Last edited: May 14, 2016
  7. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    So I replaced the fuse box today thanks to Len @ XJ4ever and the headlight works now! I had also located the headlight relay and cleaned the connections and plugged it back in. My money is on the faulty fuse box as the culprit for the light not coming on.

    I also stopped at the MVA today and picked up my historic tags and registration. After I got the plates and new fuse box installed, and headlight came on, I was able to take the bike for its maiden voyage. Man what a rush!!! I was loving every moment, and boy does this bike rev smoothly to 7k. I was nervous to rev it beyond that in 5th gear, but probably because I was over 80 mph and didn't want to get pulled over.

    The one thing I did notice is the front brake feels spongy and I rebuilt the caliper, installed new brake lines, and a new master cylinder. I guess I should try to bled it some more. Any tips are most appreciated.

    Thanks again for all the help gurus!!
     
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  8. jayrodoh

    jayrodoh YimYam Premium Member

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    Good deal! Spongey brakes is a symptom of air in the lines. Not the only one but a good/easy place to start. This forum is full of bleeding tips and techniques.
     
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  9. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    I found a post by k-moe describing the brake bleeding technique. He mentioned to tighten the bleeder screw BEFORE the lever contacts the hand grip. Oops! I was pulling in the brake lever, cracking bleeder valve, lever would pull in against the hand grip, tighten bleeder screw, and then release lever.

    Once I changed my technique to: Gently squeeze brake lever, loosen bleeder screw, bump brake lever back a few inches while coming to within 1 1/2" of the grip, tighten bleeder screw, and release lever - the brakes firmed up instantly. It took me 2 mins total to finish them off. Took a ride and man what a difference. I can stop quickly and with one finger slow up when coming to a sharp turn.

    Now I just need to install my mirrors, get some fresh gas in the tank, and go for a significantly longer ride later this afternoon.
     
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  10. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    image.jpg Here she is! Mirrors installed, synched again, and ready for a long ride this afternoon.

    I realize now the oil level is too high! Not sure why as I was just under the high mark at the beginning of the week. Anyway to syphon oil out to correct level without draining entire system?Thoughts?

    To Do:
    - Blast and paint header pipes, if I can get the exhaust pipe off! Geez!
    - Repair rip in seat
    - Get correct length throttle cable from Len.
    - Cam Chain adjustment?
     
  11. waldreps

    waldreps Active Member

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    I'm just dealing with this type of situation now. The consensus was that the oil level doesn't get higher on it's own. It's most likely a combination of your petcock leaking and your needle valves leaking or fuel levels being set too high allowing fuel to get into your crankcase thereby raising your oil level. My petcock doesn't leak a drop but apparently while my biking is running, excess fuel is getting into the crankcase. I'm in the process of rebuilding my carbs now to remedy the situation. Before that though, make sure you are checking your oil level while the bike is on the centerstand and on level ground. Drain some oil if it's still too high and smell it. If there's any fuel smell at all, don't run the bike. It was hard for me to tell if my oil smelled like fuel but I finally came to the conclusion that the oil level wasn't changing on its own and the only thing that can make the oil level go up is fuel getting into the crankcase.
     
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  12. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    Just got back from a 65 mile ride through the countryside. We did a pre run before our ride on Sunday morning w some blokes from church. Love the mountains, pastures, waterfalls, twisties, and all out scenery of Western MD! The bike performed flawlessly and kept up effortlessly with my friend's Dynaglide. I'm still grinning from ear to ear. I've never had an XJ running like it truly should.

    Gonna sleep well tonight!
     
  13. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    I think i just put too much oil in. Doesn't smell like gas in crankcase but I will do a fuel level test to see if i have any stuck needles. I totally rebuilt the carbs with new float needles and needle valves. They are the metal kind without the little rubber tips so hopefully i won't have the sticking issue again.

    Is there are way to syphon oil out of the crankcase? I couldn't get a small hose down in there far enough.
     
  14. waldreps

    waldreps Active Member

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    I think it's tough to get a tube down far enough to siphon oil out. I simply opened the drain plug just enough to control the flow and let a small amount out.
     
  15. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Yu can snake fuel line down far enough
     
  16. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    Why didn't I think of that. Just crack the plug loose enough for oil to slowly come out. Genius!
     
  17. Palmer650#2

    Palmer650#2 Member

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    I couldn't get a fuel line/small syphon hose down there far enough. Is there a trick to it?
     

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