It's back together; now what???

Sigh. The continuing adventures of the newbie mechanic...

Well, I've got the bike back together, and I've learned quite a bit. For example, if you forget to plug the wires back into the TCI unit, did you know your spark plugs won't get shit for current? Yeah, me too, now...

Anyway, I think I've got everything right, but of course, it won't start. Turns over strong, I get sparks at the plugs (now), compression is there, although I don't know how strong (just put my thumb over the hole and cranked the engine to make sure something was there). I'm ready to just push off down our hill of a driveway to see if I can start it that way, but I figure I'd ask for suggestions from you guys first...

So whaddya think?

 

Have you put the petcock on prime to allow the carb bowls to fill? Are you sure the petcock is functioning, are you getting fuel?
Pull the plugs and see if there wet.
Did you set the carb float levels?
Are you sure the coil wires are connected to the right plugs.
Is everything else plugged in.
Just my .02cents

Don't forget you have to push it back up the hill if it doesn't start

 

This may not be the BEST answer, but when my bike won't start with the electric starter, pushing it down ahill in second gear and then letting the clutch out always works. Sometimes it's a huge hassle, but I've found it to be the only way to start a flooded engine.

By the way, you say you have spark and compression. Make sure you have air and fuel as well. Also, the timing might be doublechecked as well.

Good luck!

 

I've checked the fuel (at the carb bowl drain screw) and it's getting there. Air and timing I haven't.

 

First, do everything Richard said. Second make sure the battery is showing at least 12.2 volts. If you removed the pilot mixture screws what did you set them to? 2.5 turns out is standard. 3 may be what you need.
You need to make sure of the float levels. This is CRITICAL.
Don't get discouraged dude, we've been there and you are just a little bit from the victory dance! I got my XJ back running last week so if you need me to run down and trouble shoot I can still do that too.

 

Oh. My. God. I got it running!! I did it! Some adjustments are still needed; it's idling waaaay too high, but the darn thing is running! Thanks to everyone here for the help, encouragement and even parts!

Sorry, I'm in shock right now. I grew up as one of those nerds that had trouble fixing a lamp with a burnt out light bulb, and I just got my bike running!!!!

Ahem. Okay; I'll calm down now...

 

That's what stopped me! :lol:

 

Congradulations Mark;
What did you find to be the trouble?
now you need a colortune to set your mixtures, and sync the carbs
You'll be able to get up the hill much easier now
Sounds like you and BlueMaxim need to get a carb clinic going down in your area.
Good luck

 

Um. Okay, maybe this is cheating. But I couldn't find anything wrong with it, so I shot some carb cleaner spray into it and if fired right up. I went back twenty minutes later, and it still started up, so I'm assuming it just needed a "little kick".

 

You were using the choke right?

Glad you got her running.

Nachoman

 

Yep. Thanks!

 

A hearty congratulations Mark! May the fruits of your effort be sweet! I love the first time you fire a resurrected machine back into life! There is nothing sweeter (no, not even that you dirty minded sops). I've done my fair share of dances too, it is a thrilling time, revel in it! Now get to riding!

 

If you got it running there ain't no such thang as cheatin! Congratulations. The high idle is common. Make sure the clamps are tight on the carb boots and intake. A colortune will most likely straighten that out but it may still need a sync to smooth things out. I have the colortune ut I don't have carbsticks.

 

I highly recommend the purchase of syncing gages from JC Whitney. Their deluxe set is great and reasonably priced (last I checked $48 USD). The specialty shops want $130 or more for the same thing. Good investment for future happiness. I also found a site that shows how to make the carb sticks for about $10. Uses a heavy oil (close enough) and yard sticks. Cheap but effective. http://www.powerchutes.com/manometer.asp is where it can be found. Good luck!

 

You can make a 2 cylander job cheaply with a pair of bottles...

If you have two jars - put one short hose to the bottom of each jar. Fill the jars half full of water. Put one long hose into each bottle - seal them airtight. Run each long hose to one of the carbs in the bank.

Balance 1-2
Balance 3-4
Then balance the banks with the middle adjustor.

Or buy a 4 carb tuner... Certainly easier.

Remember you are tuning to relative not to the absolute. Each carb should have the same pull not a specific pull.

(EDIT)

Here is one example:
http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?p=267907

and a second:
http://www.obairlann.net/~reaper/motorc ... meter.html

 

Alas, the balancing will have to wait; another set back has hit...

I took the carbs back off (took me 20 minutes this time rather than a day and a half; I guess I'm learning something after all!), and one of the bowl drain plugs was completely stripped. I managed to get it out fairly easily with a drill and a bolt extractor, but of course now I'm out the plug. I grabbed THESE on eBay. Hopefully this will get things back together, but France is a long way away. Anybody else ever order these? To be honest, I sprung for them yesterday before I knew about the stripped part, just because it looked like a cool thing to do... :wink:

 

Sorry to say Jazzmoose, I don't see a drain plug in that list of bolts from France.
Hope you let the rest of us know what you think of those French Imports, I've been thinking about them myself!

 

I was afraid of that; looks like it'll be back to the Yamaha place, or looking for cheap carbs on eBay for a replacement...

 

Try this link Mark.
Steve C (stevec5000@yahoo.com or stevec5000@gmail.com) is your guy for
float-bowl drain screws.

His work is here: http://www.mesanet.netfirms.com/CarbDrainScrews.htm

 

I got a set from Steve C quite a while back - and they work just fine. I opted for the set with an allen-head on them for ease of removing the screws occasionally with stripping out a slotted screwdriver head.

Rex S.

 

from france!

lol

 

Cool! Those stainless stell allen head screws would fit in nice with the other ones!! I'll contact him immediately.