Church

So I have my link to church and have read some of it, I'm looking for any and all correct pictures for inside the wonderful beast of my carbs just need to make sure the po didn't put stuff in the wrong spots, I've seen the pictures and now can't find them anywhere and I know people have said the manuals are sometimes wrong aaaand go

 

There are more pics than what are in church. Click the xj4ever banner (upper right of every page), scroll down, and you'll findall sorts of good links about carbs

 

If you have a cell phone take LOTS of pictures as you take carbs apart and get 4 containers keep all screws with each carb. Lay a towel down this should catch anything small . The hardest part will be getting linkage back together( things ALWAYS come apart easy) Look at the choke rod there are 4 setscrews and one more on the arm. Back these off carefully pull rod out there are some bushings on carb 3&4 (take pictures) and you will have "feet" that go to the plungers( take picture of direction) Once rod is out of all the carbs , Now you will find 4 screws (2 in front 2 on bottom) remove these , back off synch screws wiggle carb and should pop off the fuel tubes (take more pictures ) Then dis assemble carb , remove screws from the butterflys and pull out plate , there are 2 "E: clips on #1 and 4 Carb and a couple of nuts and some springs( take pictures) once undone pull shafts out . You will now see the washers and seals ....PUT NEW ones in , pull float bowls , remove floats and needle and seat. Now get a gallon container of Berryman Carb cleaner put carb body in for about an hour pull out, blow all passages out( the container has a bucket inside put float bowls,jets in as well) pull all out . I use Dawn dish soap and scrub all the parts afterwards . Inspect all parts to see if clean if in doubt repeat until satisfied. The float bowls recommend putting in hex head drain screws ( xj4ever has them) these have a tapered shoulder and makes draining a breeze . ( stock usually chewed up) When you put back together the fuel tubes need new seals a little silicone grease helps and shaft put back in butterfly plate reinstalled ( forgot to tell you take a sharpie mark top of plate put a dab of lock tight blue on the 2small screws , and the linkage needs put back together ( refer to pictures) put synch screws back in there are 2 springs and a pin (refer to your pictures) Reinstall the pilot jet and main jet (make sure you tighten down...take my advise I know about this one ) put seat back in put a new needle in (unless yours are good rubber is not hard) there is a small clip that goes over the tang on the float put needle on seat drop flat between posts and put pin back in. Now you can measure float height 17mm from flange without gasket this will get you in ball park. ( wet set is another chapter) Next I put a little gasket sealer on one side of float bowl gasket and put it on the bowl let it set up , put a light coat of silicone grease on the face of flange( this allows you to remove later) Put the bowls back on and now the jets in the top of carb (make sure jets are in correct position) put diaphragms back in do clunk test do the drop with a "Clunk" if not clean them until they do. Put the slinky back in and the carb hat. Now put choke linkage back together ...I'm sure others will disagree with my madness ,but this is just my take on it. Good luck

 

Well that's sertanly shorter than reading the whole church lol thanks

 

Sorry so long winded , but this was stuff that was the logical way I did it ...I left a few things out ...BUT hit most things . I just want to help ...nothing as frustrating as doing a job only to find out you overlooked something.

 

Can you use paint thinner to clean the carbs? Or ever clear?

 

You could , but Berrymans is my choice you can get it at autozone and as long as can is sealed lasts ...till the next time.. the crap they sell today is crap ...if you have not pulled your bowls yet don't be shocked if the inside is green or red...if it is not colored then that is a good thing.

 

I've got one carb almost done and its amazingly clean I mean almost new shiny even all the tiny holes have no dirt or grime and the fuel rail is spotless so here's hoping the other 3 are the same way I'm fairly anal when it comes to my stuff being clean

 

Good news there...mine has a dry red powder..I has Stabil and marvel mystery oil in tank . so that might have been it. I blame P.O. 2 different main jests and a list of other sins..now all sorted bike runs right up to 85 (buried needle lol) I'm old so don't need to go that fast LOL

 

I'm a young guy and I don't not care to go faster than my speedo majority of the time. Fun yes, stupid probably

 

I pulled top and bottoms off all at the same time. Once I got that far, I split the rack and did a complete rebuild of each one... one at a time, from dismantle to degrease, to dip (berryman) then replacement of throttle shaft seals, butterfly hardware and fuel o-rings, then back together... then on to the the next one...

Snapping pictures of each while still dirty, so if I had trouble, I could refer back... Doing it this way definitely takes longer as there is no efficiency in doing similar tasks at once, but you'll have carbs that are still untouched to refer to as well.

I took my time and dedicated 4 days, 1 carb per day for the complete rebuild. It went solo smoothly and i never got aggravated or felt like things were taking too long on any given day. I have never rebuilt carbs before. It runs great!

Heres a pic half way through.

 

Lots of carb cleaning links:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/problems-and-more-problems.64873/page-2#post-461673

 

lemon juice works
ever clear mix that with the lemon juice and drink it while working on the carbs.

 

The set your fuel levels after the third shot.

 

Hmm I don't know if that would work too well, I'd have to re set them again the next day bahaha,

 

3 shots set wet 3 shots reset wet 3 shots rereset wet.......................I do not see the problem except running out of ever clear, i guess I could substitute grave diggers

 

Everclear is for sanitizing, not drinking.

 

Last time used ever clear was to clean a fish tank for repair

 

I tried everything clear once. That was one too many times. Nasty stuff. I'd rather drink bottom shelf liquor than ever clear,and I would rather not drink bottom shelf.

 

I get everclear at the package store 190 proof grain alcohol its for cooking or making party punch

 

it is not intended to be done as a shot it is a great mixer

 

I thought I had low standards.....

 

Sorry 550H, but I just can't do it. I'm not a Stolli or high end bourbon kind of guy (although I would if my budget allowed it), but middle shelf is my standard for mixers; Bacardi, Smirnoff, etc.

 

Works great for home made apple pie

 

As a teen I mixed it or alcool (90%) with koolade and it'd kick my butt. I was crazy, that shit will blind you

 

From going to carb church to ever clear. Funny.

 

That's what I was thinking but no problem I've got the carbs all cleaned out and ready to go, just waiting fory motor to be ported, polished, shims, and put back together

 

Sorry to have contributed to the straying of the thread. Glad to hear you were able to get the carbs cleaned.

 

Next step reduced wiring headlight relay, anyone got a link I'm sure this has been covered before

 

what do you want to reduce?

 

I've cut out all but the essentials, already got that bit done 8 wires total after eliminating the stuff that didn't work I just can't seem to figure out how to wire the headlight relay so the lights don't come on before the bike starts I've got the correct relay with the yellow spot on it but can't remember how to wire it back in