Thoughts?

Only #1 cylinder spark plug looks like this reasons could be caused by?

 

looks like what?

 

This reminds me of the work orders we see at work sometimes. I think you're missing a picture.

 

Order: Gas gauge shows empty tank.

Response: Fill tank with fuel.


Like that?



OP: invisible spark plugs are a rare, but serious condition. When did you last tip a glass?


Also (and more seriously), could you please not start a new thread for every question about your bike? It is much easier to provide help when everything is in one thread, so we can all look back and see what has been done.

 

Now I'm really interested in the assumed non existent picture! And for forums sake... create a good title that is easily searchable for future reference!

 

Camo?

 

Not related to plugs 2, 3, & 4. Different father, maybe?

 

Yes will do from now on

 

Hahahahahaha the comments got me rolling but for real my bad about not having a picture I didn't realize it never loaded

 

might be burning some oil

 

Oil is full and doesn't smoke blue maybe a little black smoke occasionally

 

Agreed. Wipe a clean finger over the base ring, then rub the residue between your finger and thumb. What does it feel like?

 

I'll have to get back to you on that one either tonight or tomorrow afternoon

 

Feels like oil looks like oil I'm gonna go with its oil getting thru like polock said unless there is something else it could be ?

 

If it feels like oil, then it's oil.
Might be rings.
Might be valve guide seals.
Do a comression test on that cylinder. Once dry, and then again with a teaspoon of oil down the sparkplug hole. If the comoression increases with the addition of oil, then it's rings.
It's up to you to decide to run it like that or not. As long as the plug doesn't foul out, and oil consumption is tolerable, the engine can go a long time before needing to have the problem remedied.

 

Holy smokes I'm gonna have to wait till my mechanic friend is back in town I don't have hardly any tools of the mechanics trade

The other day when I was riding and the reason I checked the plugs afterwards was bc I kinda laid into it a little from a lower rpm and it didn't sound right kinda choppy if you would but when I got up around 3-4000 it would even out and run like a striped ass ape

 

Here is a picture of the plugs I replaced

 

we like to see right up in the business end of the plug, but it looks like they're all very black to me.
check the enrichment plungers are fully down and treat your bike to a new set of plugs so you have a good starting point

 

What and where are the enrichment plungers? I've already got new plugs in it let me see if I have any better pictures if not I'll get some on here when I get back to my shop

 

The first two are from the other day they are the
new plug from cylinder #1 and the third one is an old plug from the same cylinder

All the plugs come out dry after riding today and just a little gray I'll get new pictures of all them in a bit

 

How long was the bike sitting before you started riding it? Your oil problem may jsut be due to stuck rings, which should free up as you put more miles on.

 

The guy I bought it from had it about a year and put about 1000 miles on it before that it had been a while I know for sure long enough to sour gas so bad it wouldn't fire

 

enrichment plungers are the things that move on the carbs when you move the choke lever

 

follow your choke cable it connects to a rod on the carbs , the fingers on the rod lift the enrichment plungers when you turn on the choke.
the plungers let fuel into the carbs from the carb bowls via the long tube that goes into the wall of the carb bowl.

 

I checked the enrichment plungers they are all the way down

I need a gasket for the lid of the master cylinder/ resovior -xj750- anyone have anything or know of anything that'll work? I've got some build your own gasket but it still just barely seeps thru has anybody else tried this? Maybe I just did a bad job cutting it idk

 

This is what the new plugs look like after a few minutes of riding maybe 10 miles on them probably more idle time thang
I uploaded them in order #1 2 3 4

 

There's no need to photograph the THREADS or the SIDES of the spark plug, the only thing that is important is the "inside" of the tip (the ceramic insulator and the bent metal tip a/k/a the ground electrode.

One plug looks soot-fouled, that could be due to either an overly-rich or overly-lean condition. Typically, if it's overly rich the tip will smell of gas, and you might be able to see and/or "smell" the richness from the exhaust.

If it's overly lean, then either the pilot circuit is partially (or fully) clogged on that carb, or the floats are set way too low, or the fuel inlet needle is seized in a closed/partially closed position, etc.

 

Yeah I couldn't get my camera to focus very clearly so I had to pull it back a little and this is the about the best I could come up with and still be able to kinda see the ends of them

It's burning rich I can smell it occasionally how would I go about checking each piece of the carb that was just mentioned and is it very difficult? I've never really dealt with carbs before I'm not totally stupid to them either

 

I need a GOOD set of tires they are important so I won't skimp out on them

Can I get some recommendations and reasons why you recommend them? What tire are you running with? Decent place to purchase tires??

 

I just bought new tires for my bike. After some research and recommendations from members on here, I got Dunlop D404's. I got them from www.revzilla.com because of the price and they've provided great customer service in the past. I've only put about 200 miles on them but they seem great...very comfortable ride and no tracking at all which my previous tires did on the concrete road surface I ride on quite a bit. I can't speak on the treadwear yet but I don't think it will be a problem.

 

You will like the D404 tires.

 

In my opinion your best bet when dealing with the carbs is to pull them them off and do a thorough cleaning. I did this for the first time on my xj and was pretty easy. Just take pictures of everything before you take it apart to have for reference. Each peice only fits in one spot so its kinda hard to mess up. Just dont lose anything. I used a gallon carb dip from my local auto parts store. Some carb cleaner and a can of compressed air. Cotton swabs and an old tooth brush also work well. As your taking it apart you should be able to see if anything is plugged or dirty. Also it is not nessesary to separate the carbs from the rail to clean them. I also use seperate trays or baggies to keep the parts for each carb together. Once you get everything clean just put them back together useing your pictures for reference. After they are back together you can bench sync them. Then screw your mixture screws all the way in but not tight. Screw them out 3.5 turns. That should be close enough for the bike to start and run. Once you know they are clean them you can start to adjust them.

 

Did you check the gap on the new plugs. Most are sold pre gapped but i always double check.

 

I just put a Shinko 230 on the rear. I like it so far, and hope that it lasts longer than the Conti-Go I had on there before (and the Kenda 761, but it loasted a long time considering it was a front tire mounted on the rear). I'm still only halfway through the front Conti-go at around 5300 miles. I would reccomend them if you have good roads (no chipseal, which is what cost me so much life from the rear Conti) and like semi-grippy tires that don't cost a whole lot.

Also carbs: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-secret-life-of-carburetors.14751/
Do the whole shebang so you can ride without chasing problems.
If you don't want to break the rack then test for vacuum leaks using propane or vcarb cleaner before removing the carbs. Focus on the throttle shaft area, and if the idle increases then you shoudl go ahead and replace the throttle shaft seals.

 

Well guys thanks for the recommendations on tire now i will sit down and do some research on them tonight ... probably gonna go with the better looking tread pattern lol... now what about a spot to get them mounted and balanced just any ole motorcycle shop that doesn't seem too shade tree or is that not very difficult? I know I can mount but balance is a whole nother thing I havent touched on yet


K-moe why put a front tire on the back? Have you done this process with carbs
before?

 

I run the D404 as well, I have been happy with them. As for balancing, I take mine to a local motorcycle shop. My advice would be to remove the wheels and bring them in, you'll probably save yourself quite a bit of money that way. I have heard some shops won't mount tires that you bought elsewhere, but I haven't run into that myself, but might be good to ask if you are calling around.

 

+1 on taking the wheels off and taking them in. Just be sure to mark the direction of rotation cause with the wheels off, they won't know unless the old tires are still on. Even so, be safe and mark them. I used tape on my rim.

 

Good thinking yall I wouldn't have ever thought about marking direct that's genius

 

Does anyone have a list of parts between all makes and models that will fit on the 82 xj650 750?

Also is there any difference between the 650 and 750 drive shaft and rear end? I've got the set up from a 750 and if it would make my 650 faster or give it more torque I'd like to swap it this winter

 

There is no difference in the final drive. There are other Yamaha final drives that have different gear ratios, but I think that they are all taller (lower RPM for a given speed).

Go to here: http://www.yamahapartsnation.com
Look up the part. Click on the part number, and it will open a list of every model that part was used on.

Most parts from other makes that will fit will be common OEM supplier items, like fuses and tires.

Going faser and having more torque are at opposite ends of the spectrum. What is your goal?

 

Having taller gears wouldn't be all bad especially for running down the highway at 65-75 mph

Right now my goals are unclear im thinking either stunt bike or just something cruise around on depending on what I find. it'd be cool to get a final drive with enough torque in the first couple gears to be able to wheelie easily and tall enough gears in the end for the highway but i doubt they make one just guessing something like that would probably have to be custom made so the cost im afraid would be an arm and leg and I wont go that route at which point I'll look for one with taller gears

 

If you want to wheelie, practice clutch control (and how to rebuild forks and replace wheel/headstock bearings). The bike isn't light enough to come up with just throttle.
You don't really need taller gearing for the freeway. Even 80MPH still has the engine in its midrange. I forget which, but one of the Venture final drives is a direct swap and will drop RPMs by about 400 for any given speed/gear combo (I think one of the SX final drives does the same). The downside is slower acceleration.

 

I didn't think that far into it the bike is pretty heavy it's just I've seen Harleys out there stunting ..it was a v twin engine tho
My bike is running in the 6's at 65 I believe its been a couple days since I've rode and will be a week before I get to again

 

Yep. Midrange starts at 5,500 RPM. I usuallly take at least one multi-day trip each year. Don't worry about engine speed on the freeway. You aren't hurting the machine.

 

Alright I trust you on this it just seemed a little high to me

 

The area where the flat blade screwdriver is it supposed to be slick and greased?

 

Slick yes. Greased, no.
Check the oil level in the final drive.

 

Looks like I'll be pulling it back apart tomorrow lol and the is full I've already changed it once or twice tryna get all the gunk outta there man you should've seen that magnetic drain plug the first go around it was probably 3/8 inch longer and same diameter all the way down bc of all the crap stuck to it I never thought about taking pictures I wish I would've now tho

I went with the Dunlop d404 rear there was only like one tire here in town just happened to be the Dunlop everything else had to be ordered in


Also should I go ahead and get new shoes on order? I've never dealt with drum brakes before so I'm pretty clueless on this one not even sure if you'll be able to tell from the pic there isn't any grooves on the inside of the drum and the tops of the shoes are slicker than greased owl shit no grooves or burs

 

Yes, get new brake shoes. Old brake shoes can delaminate and become a safety hazard. It's a cheap price for knowing they're safe.