Not getting fuel

Hi so I'm not getting fuel to two of my spark plugs they still look brand new and my other to are a brown color any ideas why there not getting fuel ?

 

Can't assume that the two plugs aren't getting fuel just yet.

Are the exhaust headers for those cylinders not getting as warm as the other two?

Which 2 cylinders have good colored plugs, and which 2 do not?

 

No header still get warm and it's the first one on the left then the 3 one in if your sitting on the bike the power cuts in and out.

 

So #1 and #3 do not have good color, but are firing.

What are the idle mixture screws set at on those cylinders?

Since this is a new thread for you, would you mind going over what carb work has been done (if any) and if you have checked valve clearnaces and fuel levels?

 

It seems to run better on prime and yes the headers still get warm

 

I just got the bike couple days ago

 

I don't know what carb work has been done

 

Time to start learning about your machine and how to care for it. It's best to assume that no maintainance has ever been done. Just go through the whole list; that way you don't spend the next several years chasing down problems instead of riding.

The Information Overload Hour

You seem to have a fuel delivery issue that needs to be identified and addressed. You will be removing the carbs for cleaning, and possible rebuild (the bottom end anyway). But before you do that spay carb cleaner around the throttle shafts to identify any vacuum leaks that may be occuring. This will help to decide on how far you need to get into the carbs.

In the Church of Clean

But before you start on carb work, check your valve clearances as they can also affect combustion. Just do the clearance checks for now; no need to pull shims unless the clearances are out of spec.

Airhead Valve Adjustment

 

So I need to rebuild the bottom end of the engine ?

 

The steps K-moe gave are a great place to start. None of it involves rebuilding the bottom end of the engine. Take your time and go through the information in each link. I would also add checking your rear brake shoes to ensure they are safe - http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threa...r-brake-bike-owners-please-take-a-look.15874/, check the dates on the front brake lines, consider rebuilding the master cylinder and replacing the calliper seals. It's a lot to consider, but riding safely is the highest priority.

 

The bottom end of the carbs.

Ideally you'd tear them completely down, remove the throttle plates, remove the slides, remove all the jets, thoroughly clean the jets and carb body, inspect the slide diaphrams for pinholes, replace all the rubber parts (including the throttle shaft seals, but not he diaphrams unless they are bad) and then put them back together with baseline settings before a final tune. But it's summer, and you want to ride, and I'm not positive yet that you need to do all of that work.

Start the bike. Carb cleaner methodically sprayed at the throttle shaft seals. If the idle increases then you have leaky seals and will need to do a full rebuild of the carbs before you can ride it.
If the idle does not increase then you can probably get away with cleaning the jets with spray carb cleaner (including the idle mixture needles and idle passages), checking fuel levels, and continuing to ride this summer.


How does the brake fluid look? Perfectly clear, or a bit yellowed?
Are the brake lines rubber? Can you read the date codes on the lines?

 

First welcome to the forum ...before doing any wrenching I suggest reading alot of posts. On the upper right corner of the page click xj4ever chacal sells all the CORRECT parts you will need his service is fantastic. You will save yourself a bunch by doing the work youself. These bikes are easy to work on, take your time it will pay off. If your bike is your avatar picture it looks good. One thing DO NOT ditch stock airbox for pods, it is harder to tune .