xj550 Seca Minimum Wiring Questions

Ok, so I'm trying to finish my first ever bike build and got real excited when I started the project about a year ago. I pulled the wiring harness all out not thinking I would forget a bunch of stuff.

I've seen the XJ minimum wiring diagram that is floating around here somewhere. My question is; the original wiring loom has tons of wires, The bike was a real poor condition and the PO cut and rigged wires all over. With this diagram can really just run this few wires and leave out all the other stuff?

What about the clutch hand lever wires and kickstand wires? can i just really not run wires to these items and more.

 

I should mention that I'm removing the original speedo/tech display and only installing a speedo. here is what I'm installing: http://modernmotorcycle.co/collecti...edo-60mm-with-warning-lights-black-140kph-mph

I think I'm in way over my head as lots of the connectors need repairs since the wires are messed up or some have come out of the connector.

 

You have two options to avoid dealing with the prior owner's f***ery.

1. Build you own harness (either using the minimum diagram, which I beleive does work for the 550 (though some wire colors may be different). This option eliminates all of the safety features on the bike.

2. Buy a good used harness and be riding again in a weekend of work.

 

I might have one. I need to double check though. Start a conversation with me if your interested.

 

When building your own harness, is it recommend to cut the old connectors out of the crap harness or use new connectors for the harness you build and what ever you are connecting to? What type of connectors are recommended for the 2nd option?

 

When building your own harness you can use whatever connectors you want, unless you are replicating the factory harness, in which case you should use the factory connectors so the original components (realys and such) can be used. Reusing the original connectors is fine if they are serviceable. Replacment factory connectore are avaliable through Chacal, and elsewhere.

If you buy a good used harness it will already have all of the connectors on it.

 

Use weather-pack connectors, they're a little bulky, but work well. Ive been using them for years. There's a little assembling involved, but super easy.

 

http://www.weatherpack.com

 

So I did the minimum wiring diagram setup. however I want the lights on my aftermarket speedo to work for oil and neutral. Do I have to wire it through the Diode block from the stock harness? Or can I just skip it. and run the wire from the neutral switch straight to the neutral light?

 

I would've just kept those lights from the speedo just to make it easier. I'd just use the neutral switch for power.

 

The switch provides the ground-path for the circuit.

 

Back again. I completed the wiring. Only one issue thus far. My blinkers are not blinking. I installed the Flasher relay and excluded wiring up the yellow/green wire, since i'm not running a flasher cancelling unit. Same thing happens. Lights light up but are not blinking. I'm running LED light front/rear. Any thoughts?

 

Hook up some lights with incandescent bulbs on the front and back and see if you can get it to flash. Led lights use such little current, that flashers don't have the juice to work. If you hook up your old lights and it works, you will have to switch your flasher to a solid state LED flasher. Btw can you put up some pics of your wiring? I've been wanting to run minimum wiring on my harness and I don't want to mess things up. I'd like to convert both harnesses into one, and get rid of all of the useless crap.

 

What eurotas said.
Also, if I remember correctly, I saw a similar thing on mine when I accidentally mixed up something with the ground wires.

 

I'll try to post up some pictures but I'm not sure it will help you. It's cleaner than the stock harness but wires are still everywhere. I ended up completely making my own new harness right on the bike. You can do it pretty cheap, and it will consume about 20 hrs of your time.

I purchased the following:

http://www.bcpgarage.com/product/20ft-diy-custom-wiring-harness-kit
http://www.vintageconnections.com/
I purchased Professional Kit CK-1 as well as individual matching connectors.

I replaced all the OEM connectors where they are needed. The crimping tool and connectors is a life saver. Honestly 1 of the best purchase I've made for the bike. It's super clean and is legit, none of those crappy auto-zone connectors. They are the real deal

 

Can I send you my harness lol?

 

hahaha.. you couldn't pay me enough to do it again.

 

How did figure out all of the grounds? Man there's so many, there's where I think I'd be stumped.

 

I followed this paper as well as used this link: http://www.frankjohansson.com/stuff/xj550/XJ550ElectricalDiagram.html

 

Is this applicable to XJ 650's?

 

Yes. If you go Motogadget, reach out to Sybe. He rigged up his 650 Maxim tracker with one.

 

How do I search for a user in here?

 

To reach out, click on inbox
Start new conversation
Start typing the name in participants box and it will auto fill

 

Click on search, posted by member, type in name to see all of the members threads/posts

And no idea why my stuff is underlined. Feature is disabled

 

You clicked the underline button in the editing pane.

 

yes

 

the oil light has a resistor in the diode block as well as a diode.
one is used to test the light when you push the starter button the other is for when the oil switch turns on due to low oil. I will post my drawing of it and the flasher system.

if you are using led in the blinkers you need to buy an led flasher to make them work.

 

for the oil circuit use with a rectifier diode from radio shack not the 1n4xxx series but the next wattage up 1n5404 Catalog #: 2761144 and a 8.5ohm resistor
the 1n4003 will work but I just went with a higher wattage. the diode keeps the starter from coming on when the low oil light comes on due to low oil.
the resistor will control the brightness of bulb . radioshack has 10 ohm 1 watt resistors Catalog #: 2710151 or you could buy 15 ohm Catalog #: 2711102 and put 2 in parrell to get 7.5 ohms this is based on the standard bulb

 

That's what I thought too but when I clicked it, it actually double underlined. Underline the underline.