Getting the carbs out of my 550

Is there a post or some material reference out there to guide me in the correct direction on how to get the carbs out of my 550? I know the actual carb disassembly process is documented ad nauseam here (thanks for all the documentation on that guys!), but i was looking for something to guide me on my way for removal instead of going in blindly

Otherwise, a quick step by step would suffice (remove tank, remove airbox, etc)

 

undo the clamps on carb to manifold
disconnect fuel line and vac line from petcock
remove tank
undo clamps from carb boots at rear of carb
f they are soft enough you can pull back the boot connection at carb if not
use hair drier to heat carb to air box boots at air box use a dowel to push flang in and work into airbox

getting boots off it is a pain
remove choke cable
use dowel or hammer handle and gently pry carbs back from motor one side then the other side
wd 40 or penetrating spray may help at manifold boots and front of carb
when out of manifold boots push out the right side and disconnect throttle cable

 

Great instructions, carbs off successfully. Inspecting the boots, although the outsides look rough, the insides look amazing except for one of them (see picture) that crack isn't through the boot, so I shouldn't need to replace, right?

 

The air filter box can be loosened and slid back to give you some more room. Now is a good time to adjust the cam chain tensioner.

 

As long as the crack is not all the way through it will be fine. You may want to go-ahead and clean/ degrease the boots and slather a layer of black RTV on the outside of the boots as a preventive measure. A wet, gloved hand will allow you to smooth the applied RTV so that it looks almost stock.

 

Ok, so I got carb #4 taken apart for starters (right most carb on the bike, thats 4 iirc from reading, otherwise it's 1 heh)

Nothing is dirty. I know I know you're all going to say "you can't see sand" but I CAN and I don't

Either way I'll be cleaning them, don't get me wrong. I guess i was hoping they would be filthy as to explain why my bike is running so lousy. But it's only the 1st carb.

So my silly questions:

-How come the part pictured on the right has a screen and a seal in a different place than the supposed replacement part (PO provided 4 carb kits, not necessarily the correct ones) on the left?
-The other picture I've included is the air screw yes? They are all screwed COMPLETELY IN on all the bowls, very very tight, almost impossible to get off. This Is the first one I pulled out, looks in rough shape huh?

Thoughts and prayers the others I open up are filthy

 

@lostboy can you provide a link/reference material for the cam chain tensioner?

 

The screw you pulled is the float bowl drain screw. They weren't screwed in tight. They corroded because nobody ever used them.

Not all carb kits come with the bowl screens. They can be dispensed with in favor of using a fuel filter on the fuel line.

Have you done your homework?
IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

THE SECRET LIFE OF CARBURETORS

 

I feel like all I've done is read heh. I can't retain part name specific information yet, still to early, very visual learner so I gotta tinker.

I took off all bowls for visual inspection inside, and noticed a piece of the float needle is missing (the needle is very much still there, just not the metal staple looking thing that hangs over the arm. This is a picture with the spring).

Is this an issue?

Doesn't look like needle can't fall out simply because it will never have the space.

 

The needle hanger is kind of important. It helps locate the needle when the float sits low in the bowl so the needle dosen't get cockeyed in the bore.

 

you can pop that screen off the old part and put in on the new part.
if you replace a needle valve you can take the hanger clip off the old one put it where you need one
cam chain adjustment


when you adjust the valves if you look at the cams and turn the square nut on plate cam sprocket should move with the wrench no hesitation , both directions. that is how you can tell if it is adjusted properly

 

Ok, I'll pick up a needle.

Onto a big question: boiling, and boiling in lemon juice.

I'm already breaking a huge rule by not breaking the rack (I've walked into the church but not ready to read from the good book yet, I understand the risks / time sink by not breaking).

Can I throw the ENTIRE rack into boiling lemon juice / liquid of choice (suggestions welcome, not sure where I'll even be able to do this)?

Otherwise I'll just be cleaning with agent and compressed air, church manual stuff. I'll at least put what I CAN into boiling juice if not the rack itself.

I'll repent

 

Remember how much work it was to take the carbs off?
How old are the throttle shaft seals again?
What was the bike running like before?

 

The hose clamp needs ditched ..you should have a stock clamp ( you can get it from xj4ever ) the reason the hose clamp can put too much compression on carb/boot assy and can lead to cracks in boots. I would replace this boot if it were mine ( you have to be careful removing allen bolts) .

 

Listen to k-moe IF you follow the "good book" you will only have to do this once ,not several times!!! Shaft seals need replaced PERIOD leaks can cause no end to problems tuning. The problem with the boiling lemon juice is you don't want to leave carbs in very long , they can come out rather dull. My personnel choice id Berrymans carb cleaner in 1 gallon bucket IE tear carb down completely all jets and rubber seals removed . Put one carb at a time in soak for at least 1 hr or more remove clean with dawn dish soap , blow out all passages . Then rebuild carbs with NEW seals pitch old ones , yes seals are not cheap , DO NOT try to make your own . I've rebuilt many different carbs over the years , maybe because I'm an aircraft mechanic there are no do overs to make a 747 airworthy I don't take short cuts. My xj750 Seca carbs went to church and got religion , my bike runs fantastic. Your will to by following along good luck

 

you can do it with out breaking the racks and hope the throttle shaft seals are still good, If you replace them now it will be 20 years before you have to do it again.

only you will know when you are ready to sit before the alter.

 

If cost is an issue, a pair of #11 o-rings can sub for each throttle shaft seal (thank you Polock). You will have to work the throttle shaft for a while to get them worked-in to the point that the throttle will snap shut (do this with the rack all together, but not installed on the bike).

 

Well, I've made the decision to have a local shop do the work on this bike. My original intent was to get something to learn on, learn the basic mechanics (oh, I'm there!) but unfortunately with my schedule it's a lot of time and waiting when all I want to do is ride! I threw in my fair share of basic stuff (new start solenoid relay, tach, fuse box with all new wiring, air filter)

If the local shop can fix it up for between $500-$700, I'll be happy as a clam. Knowing I could ride it even for the rest of THIS season would be worth that kind of money to me, even if I had to throw the bike away after that fact.

I'm still going to be active here because I do want to do other things to the bike and continue learning on adjusting and tweaking.

For now, I need your help though: I got everything reassembled tonight (taking everything off was a LOT easier). The final thing I need to adjust is the choke - no matter what I do to the choke nothing on carb rack lever happens (the lever doesn't move up or down, just stays still). It's kind of like the cable doesn't respond when I work the lever, but then if I pull on the cable it finally comes out. Is the cable too long or is there a pinch somewhere I'm missing? I guess I didn't try to pull the cable out from one end to see if it was severed. It was dark and I had to quit for the night, but I'll be tackling again tomorrow morning. I need to get the bike 6mi up the road to the shop, potentially in a few runs unless I can make it without idling

Oh and I want to check the plugs tomorrow too, something tells me that was part of my issues from the get go.

Cheers!
-MD

 

Is this a shop with a good reputation for knowing how to do a thorough job and leave the customer with a properly sorted motorcycle?

 

I was originally going to buy a bike from this place and they were very nice. Even over the phone here the guy was trying to help troubleshoot. Unless someone from the area highly recommends another place (within a reasonable distance I can get this bike to) I'm comfortable knowing they'll do a good job. For references, it's Schlossmann Motorcycles of Milwaukee. http://www.motorcyclesofmilwaukee.com

 

A shop that tries to help before having the bike in the shop is a good place to go.

 

So my last question then is this choke business. I can't get the rack lever to operate when I use the choke. Should the lever on the carb rack be up when the choke is pushed back, or should the lever be up when the choke is pulled forward?

 

According to their website from the link you posted, they have free pickup and delivery for service up to 120 miles. If it's not running right, let them come get it.

 

pushing the choke to the 9:00 position parallel with the handle bars activates the choke , lever on carb should be lifted.
when choke lever points to rear of bike the choke is off lever down.

the outer sheath of the cable fits into a holder at lever and is clamped at the bracket on the carbs .
can you lift the lever by hand?

each end of the wire has a barrel on it one pushes into lever on carb the other locks into the choke lever on control at the bars you have to unscrew the control lever to see the socket

 

Corroded, or broken, clutch cables won't move a darned thing.

 

So upon complete reassembly (and I knew this would happen) I have gas leaking into the airbox through carb 4. What did I miss/do? Looks like I'll be having them pick this guy up

 

Tap the float bowl with a screwdriver handle. You may just have a stuck float.

 

Would that be a persistent issue or something that just happened because bowl was dry?

I had put it on PRI to fill the bowls, that's when it happened.

I'm gonna schedule the pickup of the bIke, but in the meantime I'd like to see it run. So can I safely set the fuel switch to ON and start it since bowls are full?

 

wet set fuel level sticking needle valve, or
you did not tap the carb bowls with a screw driver handle when filling the bowls the first time and a needle valve stuck open

 

Just because the bowl was dry. It can happen on any carb, any machine.

 

yup mine broke on the way home tonight lucky I only had 1 traffic light to deal with

 

So if I whack the carb bowl. Switch fuel to ON (since there is already a ton in each bowl at this point) and I safe to attempt to start the bike?

I guess I can keep whacking, switch to PRI until I see the leak go away and then wait until all the gas evaporates again before trying to start.

What if I whack the bowl and needle valve doesn't get unstuck?

Man I'd hate to have to wait 10 days for them to pick this thing up to be able to look at it

 

Will waiting ten extra days cost you more money, or will having them take in only to find that a float was stuck cost you more?

Turn the petcock to prime, give the float bowl a few taps, and see if the furl stops coming out of the carb. Open the float bowl drain to get rid of the excess fuel (drain into an container). Wait a few minutes and start her up.

 

See I don't think of this stuff, you guys have the xp, thank you!

I just realized I could also take off the air boot to see if it starts gushing out rather than having to unscrew, drain, refill, test, etc.

My main concern with gas is explosions, which I think I overthink (being new to mechanical space). My fear is I try to start the bike and KABOOM

 

Always have a fire extingusher handy when working with gasoline cheaper than a new project bike and it wants to be an automotive one.
I carry one in my car. had the engine compartment go up in flames by time I got into my work place and back it was to late to save anything under the hood.

 

Bike fired up! Question: how would a pipe that fell into the exhaust affect the bike performance in terms of less back pressure? one exhaust is ok other has the poke / fallen pipe