How the f##k do you remove the airbox?

Hi Guys

Got an 700 Maxim, how do I get the airbox out? Looks like I hvae to cut it out.

 

If you remove the starter, the carbs, and the exhaust system, you can undo the front engine mounts allowing the motor to pivot forward and give you room.

Don't cut it up; that way you'll have it when you realize you want it after all.

 

What benefits are there to the airbox over K&N Cone Filters? I have 4 sitting in my garage which would look great on it, and improve airflow me thinks.

 

just do a forum search for pod to get a whole lot of argument about it.

 

I cut mine out, but it already had a big hole in it. The big problem with pods on these bikes are the constant velocity carbs. Some have had good results with velocity stacked pods which will still involve changing jets. Or you could get a decent set of round slide carbs for about 350.00 that are alot easier to deal with and handle air & exhaust mods better.
May cost more than you want, but will be less of a headache.

 

I don't know about the 700 Maxim, but there is no way to remove an airbox from a 1982 750 Maxim without removing the engine, I sat on my little bench turning the damn thing every which way, but to no avail. I removed the carb boots from the head and engine mount bolts, no help there. It seems Yamaha designed it to be removed after the motor was gone.

 

Uh Oh This looks like another Starter clutch thread LOL

 

Wrong! it's an airbox thread.

 

It is my experience LVSteve is correct I removed engine side carb boots, starter, headers, engine mounts to sag the engine forward, .... still cant get a dnam airbox in or out of a 650 Seca or 750 maxim. I did find a bike lif
but Id rather go through what I went through to install one than go the pod trials

 

Yes understood...what I meant was like the starter thread, there seems to be debate on whether its possible :wink:

 

I get it now Adrian, you just didn't phrase it right.

 

It's possible depending on the bike. It can be done on the 550s and we had a member that was successful using the same technique on I believe, a 700 Airhead, which is why I offered the suggestion.

I don't think it can be done without removing the engine on most of the 650/750s, but I can't say for sure.

Yes, the K&N "pod" filters will increase airflow, and that is exactly why they cause tuning headaches with CV carbs. These carbs need a finite, regulated airflow to produce the correct responses, if given an unlimited air supply they don't work well. As above, do a forum search for "pod filters" before you shoot yourself in the foot.

 

REMOVING THE AIRBOX:

The first step on your road to hell:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=21608.html


Hint: it's the funky background music that makes it possible!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rfcKX29l ... ture=email



All this and more at:

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=27544.html

 

Once again, I will tell you how I get them out when I don't plan to pull the engine.

I heat the sides and bottom of the square part, when the plastic is soft, fold it together and remove the airbox. After putting it back in, re-heat it and carefully unfold it and smooth it back out.

Dave Fox

 

Thats actually pretty slick. And makes good sense too

 

That's great if you have the ability to heat it, I don't, darn it.

 

walmart has a decent gun for around 30 bucks. But home depot has a porter cabe thats better for about the same or not much more. They have lots of uses, this is just one I never considered and I should have (duh) the primary use for mine is to heat and form PVC condiut. Great for stripping paint too.
Got give it to Dave on that one for sure, bravo Sir

 

I know how to heat it, don't have access to electricity, not allowed to use propane; working out of a storage unit.

 

dry ice and a hammer

 

I was able to install an air box on my 83 750 Maxim. I'm sure I could remove it and re-install it if need be. You need to pull the carb manifolds and the front mounting bolts for the engine. I had just enough room to fit mine in. I wish I had taken some pictures of that. I just remember it all had to go in from the right side of the bike

 

How come this(remove the starter, the carbs, and the exhaust system, you can undo the front engine mounts allowing the motor to pivot forward) reminds me of the instructions for replacing the #8 sparkplug on my Expedition (unbolt and remove the body a few inches from the frame)?

Talk about pi** poor engineering......shame, just an absolute shame....I sold a 650 Zuk for exactly the same reason......I was going to restore it and when I found that a simple airbox removal was so involved, I decided to sell it for junk and move on to my next bike rather then spend a month pulling hair.

HMS Nelson, you are far better off keeping your stock airbox but I'm feeling your pain brother......

jeff

 

If you really want to spend most of the riding season
tuning your bike over and over by all means-the pods
will LOOK great. you just won't ride as much.

On the other hand. if all you want is more air flow pop
in a k&n filter instead of the stock one. But check your
plugs right away-you'll be adj the pilots right from the
git-go.

 

Still dont see the need for "more air"
My bike will hit 100+ EASY with the stock air box
even if you got the bike without one (as I did) replacing it with the cash and labor is still less than the cash and labor of rejetting the rejet again and getting more jets to re jet again...................then there's the rain.
that my 2 cents

 

+1 skw1972.
I put in a K&N(=lot'oair) on because it's a lifetime filter.

But after have a bit of a time getting the plugs off
lean I'll just put a stock replacement on the next xj.

 

It's not important that I get the airbox out at this point anyway, I just wanted to see if I could get it out. When I remove the engine this all becomes MOOOOOOOOOOOOOT!!!!!

 

True. sorry lost track of the original thread I guess.

 

Well, then heck.......If all you're tryin' to do is get the airbox out, take a hacksaw and cut the frame away.

Dave

 

Seeing as how I JUST disassembled my XJ650 this weekend, I struggled with the airbox with ALL motor mounts removed for a good five minutes before I said to hell with it and just pulled the engine. Hate to say it, but that MIGHT be the best answer.

 

the best way is to pull the motor, the quicker way is to heat it as I mentioned before. the quickest way is to cut it as others have done. I DON'T recommend that way. However, I did break one bike that had an ingenious cut-job......what that guy did was carefully cut the square part off of the box. Then, when the box was out in two pieces, he attached a close-fitting inside lip all the way around the edge of the square cut. Then, from the outside had four small angle brackets - about half inch by half inch by 1/4 inch wide by 1/16 inch thick. One screw in each leg (two screws pe L-bracket) held the box together. Dis-assemble to take out or put in, and once in place, put the screws back in and tighten it up.

Dave F

 

Just to hit on the original thought on K&N filters... DONT DO IT!!! Im a newb and I have learned in the month of owning an XJ that the airbox is key in engine performance. Unfortunately my XJ's frame was hacked up by the PO to a rigid and there is no room for the stock airbox. So I have to life with / attempt to perfect the pods. These guys know what they are talking about with this subject. Just do some research on this forum and you will see what kind of heart/head ache pods cause.

 

I guess my question has been answered, remove engine before airbox, I had to find out for myself.

 

yep , remove ..remove...remove....then remove somemore,then heat gun to the back ends of box preferably two verticle corners >{avoiding wiring harness
then crumple up same area heated ..making this area more of a 'rounded' shape ..then wiggle out..get box lodged in tighter..swear, swear again maybe louder more profane this time..push box back into original position..reheat then while twisting pushing and pulling scrape deftly against any type of protruding metal across knuckles until bleeding ..swear once more and after perhaps one plus hours you may finally proclaim your airbox to be free..
then return to bike as is necessary as hell.on your 650 seca