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i'm going in - (mikuni carb cleaning questions.)

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by kellenholgate, Sep 21, 2007.

  1. kellenholgate

    kellenholgate Member

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    I read the whole 9 yards carb cleaning thread by rick, and I am planning on tearing into my Mikunis tonight. I have the Clymer manual, but it says not to touch certain things. I want them to actually be clean, so i want to go through them Rick's way. Is there anything weird that i'm going to run into with the mikunis versus hitachis? I've cleaned/rebuilt a VW carb before and did fine. With Ricks instructions and the Clymer exploded views of the carb am i gonna be alright?

    Thanks in advance, and may the force be with me...

    BTW, since i live in an apartment, i'm going to be doing this in my kitchen...which is going to suck for my wife. because of this, though, it would be really easy for me to chronicle my journey pictorally for someone else that would want to do it in the future. I don't know how many have 550's but if there is a need for this let me know and i'll pull out the camera.

    kellen
     
  2. Anthony14

    Anthony14 Member

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    I would love if you could do that, I have a 550 and this would be a great reference for me when/if the time comes.
     
  3. crazydad

    crazydad New Member

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    I agree with Anthony14. The time is very soon for me!
    I have a 82 xj550 that needs lots of work, and i am still new.

    Love this Forum
     
  4. RickCoMatic

    RickCoMatic Well-Known Member

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    Yes.
    You're going to need some Perfectly Fitting screwdrivers to get the Jets out.
    The Pilot Jets on Mikuni's live at the bottom of a "Tunnel-like" Port.
    DON'T apply any force to the Pilot Jet until you PREP it for extraction.

    You MUST have a screwdriver you fabricate with ZERO slop or freeplay.
    Place some Vegetable Oil in the top of the tunnel and HEAT the tunnel near the Jet.

    THEN -- Put the screwdriver to it and extract it.
    The Enrichment Valves are not tapers on the ends. They are Pins and the Pin Part needs to be shined and the port where the "Pin end" enters is where you flush the Enrichment Circuit.

    The Floats will be "Press Fit" with O-rings. They may be tough to get out.
    Put the SHANK of the correct fitting drill bit in the Float Valve Body before grabbing it with any type of plier. If you "Pinch" it out-of-round -- order a new one.

    The Float Hinge Pins have "Heads" on them like nails. They can be tough to get out; too.

    Do Not Break-off ~~> Do Not Break-off a Float Hinge Pillar attempting to pull-out a Hinge Pin.

    Heat the Pillars with a Butane B-B-Q Style Lighter. Grab the Hinge Pin between the Head and Pillar with a pair of Diagonals and hold the Pin TIGHT while applying some LIGHT Impact to the Diagonals.

    DON'T MISS and hit the Pillar.
    (I have a Hammer Head with NO Handle to use driving-out stuck Hinge Pins)
     
  5. Captainkirk

    Captainkirk Member

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    I did my carbs on my 550 several years ago......nothing unusual comes to mind, except when reassembling, check the float height via fuel level in plastic tubes (inserted in the float bowl drain holes)...THIS IS CRITICAL). Much easier to bench check with the carbs off the bike than afterwards.
     
  6. PghXJ

    PghXJ Member

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    yeah, tearing down the 550 Mikuni carbs is fun. I did it twice this year. Great shiznit. Take some pics for people, they'll appreciate it.
     

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