Cases Split, Few Questions

So in an effort to replace my busted up chain guide I've successfully split the engine cases. I have a few questions from here moving forward, though.

1. Is the primary chain guide (the one that grenaded) only held on by the one easily visible bolt closer to the crankshaft?

2. How does one "examine" the wear on the starter clutch? I know these can go bad and cause me to redo the whole thing, so what am I looking for when examining it?

3. Is there anything else of significance that I should look at or replace while she's open?

Thanks a lot for all of your help so far! I feel like I can see the light at the end of the tunnel on getting her back to running...

 

1. The guide is held in place by 3 bolts (assuming it is OEM). The one by the crankshaft, one halfway down next to the rear cam chain guide rest post thing, and the third down below where the starter clutch was. The aftermarket guide that Len sells only has the two bolts, one at either end.

2. Make sure there are no cracks in the hub, check the rollers for flat spots.

3. I am just about done wrapping up the same procedure and I opted to replace all plastic/rubber in there, including both cam chain guides, the primary chain guide, and all the oil seals. It would be a good idea to check the condition of the oil nozzle oring (and the oil nozzle itself) and the oil pump. Basically I just tried to give everything a glance to see if there was any unexpected wear, e.g. worn transmission gears, bearings, etc.

 

Good idea! Forgot about the oil nozzle, thanks for that. I appreciate the other ideas as well!

 

Don't even worry about checking the starter clutch rollers for flat spots; just replace them and the springs (and the hub if there is any sign of cracking) you don't want to split the cases again do you?

As for the guide bolts. They are held in with case sealant. Apply heat before removal (busted bolts suck),and med-strength locktite upon re-installation (bolts falling out sucks even more).

 

The $20-30 that you will spend on replacing the springs, caps, and rollers will be well worth the piece of mind of knowing that you won't have to push start the bike.

Your already in there!

~Ghost

 

Quick question do I need to remove the rotor 2 split the case I am hundred percent into it motorcycle engines so any help would be appreciated. I'm doing a tear down for the starter clutch and hopefully that's all that's in this thing.

 

100% new into motorcycle engines it should of said

 

Yes, you need to remove the alternator. The starter clutch actually rides on the same shaft as the alternator. I would recommend removing the alternator before taking the engine out of the frame, if you haven't done that already. You need to be able to keep the shaft from turning while you use the rotor removal tool and pin. Using the rear brake makes the job simpler.

Edit: just realized you are not op. Please start your own thread, it helps avoid confusion and then everything you have done is in one place for any troubleshooting that may need to occur.

 

Lol, he's not the OP, but Khan has the same issue, alternator rotor is still in the engine and cases are split.

I've removed the rotor with the engine in the bike, and have the puller and pin, but how does he remove it with the engine out of the bike?

 

With an oil filter strap wrench. It has a nylon strap that wraps around the rotor. Then as you turn the wrench with a breaker bar or ratchet it will tighten up to hold the rotor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MOTION-...ash=item23608c9d55:g:HJwAAOSwZG9WkBXW&vxp=mtr

~Ghost

 

OK thank you