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85 XJ700 Carb Questions

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Carson, Dec 30, 2016.

  1. Carson

    Carson Member

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    This screw next to the "starter plunger" is stripped. What do they do and does it HAVE to be removed/replaced?

    This picture also shows the needle jet. Do they have to be removed before cleaning?
     

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    Carson, Dec 30, 2016
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  2. Carson

    Carson Member

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    Also, my rubber diaphragms are fine but do you recommend some kind of rubber treatment while I have them opened? What about cleaning the outside of the carb and engine? Steel wool or wire brush?
     
    Carson, Dec 30, 2016
    #2
  3. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The stripped screwhead is for the pilot mixture screw. You do need to remove it for a thorough cleaning, and replacement of the o-ring. Penetrating oil, heat (in combination with candle wax) and a left-handed drillbit are helpful. You may end up drilling it through and using an extractor, but be careful to not use a drill that is too large, or go too deep.

    A "disassembled" pilot screw that I had to drill and extract a few weeks ago (spring and washer not shown).
    [​IMG]

    The carb diaphrams should not be treated with anything.

    Aluminum should not be cleaned with a wire brush.

    Clean the carbs by a full strip and dip. Replace throttle shaft seals and all o-rings.
    IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN

    What sort of finish are you wanting on the carbs and engine? How stained/ corroded is the aluminum?
    Pics help.
     
    k-moe, Dec 30, 2016
    #3
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  4. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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    Slow and easy. Drill and extract. If your gonna clean your carbs its probably not gonna be the only one your gonna do. :):)
     
    Xjrider92117, Dec 31, 2016
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  5. Carson

    Carson Member

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    Bowl gaskets have crusted up and stuck to the bowls. I cleaned it pretty good, but then realized most of the drain plugs were pretty messed up. Replace the whole bowls or try the left handed drillbit thing?

    Should I replace these "valve seat assembly" screws? The little screens are still on them but some are ripped.
     

    Attached Files:

    Carson, Dec 31, 2016
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  6. Carson

    Carson Member

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    By only drilling a little way in I can salvage the screw portion and buy a new threaded cap part?
     
    Carson, Dec 31, 2016
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  7. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    No. The screw I posted used to be of one piece. It came apart when I drilled it for extraction.

    The bowl screws can be a bugger. Soak them in carb cleaner (the gallon can, not the spray). That will help some. Follow up with a good drying, heat, and a screwdriver (use downward pressure on the screw. If that dosnt' wok them move on to heat and candle wax (the wax will wick into the threads and help free things up more. If that doesn't work then move on to drilling (drill those deep to relieve pressure on the threads) and an extractor, and heat.

    FYI, do not use a phillips screwdriver, because there are no phillips screws on the bike; they are all JIS.

    The beanie screens on the float needle seats can be despensd with, because you are going to put an inline fuel filter on between the petcock and the carbs.

    You will NEED rebuild kits for the carbs (including throttle shaft seals). Start a conversation with Chacal to get them.

    Based on your questions I'm going to ask that you re-read the link I posted above. Many of your qustions were already answered there.
     
    k-moe, Dec 31, 2016
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  8. Xjrider92117

    Xjrider92117 Active Member

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    Xjrider92117, Dec 31, 2016
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  9. Carson

    Carson Member

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    I need to put silicone grease on all gaskets even the bowl gaskets? How do I remove the needle jet?
     
    Carson, Dec 31, 2016
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  10. Carson

    Carson Member

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    Carson, Dec 31, 2016
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  11. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    The emulsion tube (needle jet) should press up from the bottom.

    Len sold me some stuff (working on first cup of joe, technical terms evade me) that is used as a treatment on diaphragms. Little bottle, couple drops rubbed into/ on the 'rubber' and they were soft, shiny and subtle.
     
    Stumplifter, Dec 31, 2016
    #11
  12. Toomanybikes

    Toomanybikes Well-Known Member

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    Us model carbs a bit on the lean side. That may make them ok for higher altitude , only a plug reading will tell you for sure. If the plug is black then yes one size down on the main would be enough and maybe one down on pilot
     
    Toomanybikes, Dec 31, 2016
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  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Only us the grease on the o-rings.
     
    k-moe, Dec 31, 2016
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  14. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    No need to rejet for high altitude. Someone here years ago rode up to Pike's Peak and reported that his bike was running perfectly on stock jets.
     
    k-moe, Dec 31, 2016
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  15. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    I put a light coat of grease on the bowl gasket .I also rtv gasket to the bowl this makes it easier to pull and gasket wont stick to carb body.
     
    Jetfixer, Dec 31, 2016
    #15
  16. hogfiddles

    hogfiddles XJ-Wizard, Host-Central NY Carb Clinic Moderator Premium Member

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    I don't grease mine... But the idea of a light touch on the bowl gasket is interesting.... I like a clean, dry contact, though.....
     
    hogfiddles, Dec 31, 2016
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  17. Carson

    Carson Member

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    How should I clean the floats without messing up the plastic or are they good?[​IMG]

    Noticed a small crack in this diaphragm. Salvageable?[​IMG]

    Lastly, there a small tube on the gas bowl side of the carb. You can see where it slides into the bowl in my last picture.[​IMG] Is that a support for the bowl or do I need something super tiny to clean that out?
     
    Carson, Dec 31, 2016
    #17
  18. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Ummm Are you going to read IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN at some point?
    The floats don't need to be cleaned.
    That crack in the plastic ring is supposed to be there.
    Cleaning the enrichment jet in the float bowl, and more, is covered in IN THE CHURCH OF CLEAN
     
    k-moe, Jan 1, 2017
    #18
  19. Stumplifter

    Stumplifter Well-Known Member

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    Pictures from post #17 are not visible for me. :confused:

    Have you gone the whole nine yards (thanks Rick!) with what has been recommended multiple times above?
     
    Stumplifter, Jan 1, 2017
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  20. Carson

    Carson Member

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    Yes I read the church of clean before I started the thread. Seeing as it doesn't have pictures and this is a website of knowledgeable people I thought I would use the forum for more advice.

    I know you don't clean the plastic floats. I'm talking about the awkward metal part
     
    Carson, Jan 2, 2017
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  21. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    OK. Apologies then.
    You don't clean any part of the float.
     
    k-moe, Jan 2, 2017
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  22. Carson

    Carson Member

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    And is it OK for the rectifier to be really really hot? How do I know when to replace it?
     
    Carson, Jan 2, 2017
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  23. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The rectifier/regulator gets hot as it dumps excess current to ground and turns it into heat.
    You'll not need to replace it unless voltage when measured at the battery (engine running) exceeds 14.8 volts. There are a few other instances when a R/R is faulty, but there's no point in checking for those at this time.
    Slow down and tend to one system at a time. Winter just started.
     
    k-moe, Jan 2, 2017
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  24. Carson

    Carson Member

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    Ha I might be getting carried away. I'm already having withdrawals from not riding.

    Would it be better for the left handed bit to go in an impact driver or drill?

    And hopefully my last question for awhile, fine threaded mixture screw right?
     
    Carson, Jan 2, 2017
    #24
  25. Carson

    Carson Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    Carson, Jan 2, 2017
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  26. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Drill. Perferably a drill press with a fixture to hold the carb


    Yes. Coarse threads were earlier.


    Congratulations on your success :)

    Now take a darning needle, heat the end and bend it into a little hook so you can fish out the spring, washer, and o-ring.
     
    k-moe, Jan 2, 2017
    #26

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