My New (Old) 1982 XJ650 Project

Greetings all. In another thread, I described the purchasing of an XJ, largely for restoration.:

http://xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic/t=6691.html

Basically, the bike has 29k miles on it and has not been ridden much for at least two years. Worse, it was stored outside the last year. Pics are below. Not bad considering.

Thusfar, I installed a new battery and ordered new shift/brake levers along with the LH mirror.

Major problems getting most of my immediate attention:

1. Front brakes aren't all that. The lever is worn, so a new one should help some. It just takes too much pressure to get good stoppage. That fat throttle handle doesn't help either. The rotor is in pretty good shape. I'll bleed the brakes and check the pistons.

2. Carbs are filthy - that's a given. I'll pull them out and give them a good clean, then sometime soon use a rebuild kit and sync them.

3. Problems starting when cold. Partly due to carbs, but the started keeps "missing" - turning over and giving that spinning brush sound. Only happens when cold; warm, starts are easy and fast. Might be alignment problem and/or needs new brushes.

4. Front master cylinder leaks - just a little. Not enough to drain reservoir, so doubtful this is the brake problem. I may have to spring for a new one.

5. Whole bike needs good cleaning. Lot's of rust, mostly surface on the chrome parts. Anodized parts are oxidized here and there.

6. Headers are crushed on the bottom. Probably some yahoo thinking the XJ was a dirt bike.

7. Front forks leaking. Don't they all?

There's more I'm sure. I'm just getting started.

I'll have plenty of questions in a bit, for now - two come to immediate mind.

1. What's a good source of -used- parts for the XJ? I'd really rather not have to shell out $100+ (from yamahasportsplaza.com) for a new master cylinder.

2. Oil change - it looks like it can be done without removing headers. Tight squeeze. Is that how most of you do it?

Also - the manual says to drain the middle gear of oil with the oil change. I can't make out where it is in the picture they show. Can someone tell me where to find it?

Thanks for any info! This is gonna be challenging.... frustrating... and fun!

 

I ran across this picture earlier while looking for something else. It shows where the middle drain is...



As for parts, I personally use Bent Bike for most of my new and used parts.

 

If you do a search for the middle drain screw and read the other's who have tried to drain this chamber you will come to the conclusion that it's not worth the hassle to drain this small amount of oil!

 

That's the best advice of all. Not worth doing! Thanks! I suppose it's the same with the final drive oil?

Also - re: the question about oil changing, a tight squeeze in between the header pipes. How do you guys do it?

 

The final drive gear oil is very easy to do, and I think it's worth doing.

Yamaha recommends SAE 80 API "GL-4" Hypoid gear oil - looks like 200 mls

As far as oil change, I still have the stock 4 into 2 exhaust system and yes the filter housing is removed between the headers.

 

Three questions:

1. Most basic, and almost embarrassing: How can I tell which model I have? The plate on the side of the fork is totally worn down. Can you tell from the photo? XJ650J?

2. I'm about to change oil and filter. The headers leave less than 1/2" to get a wrench in to the drain bolt. I assume it's best to first remove the filter, maybe then being able to get to the drain bolt. Is that the best procedure?

Note - filter housing damp because I just sprayed some BP blaster on bolt.





3. Header pipes - the middle two were crushed by a PO cowboy who thought the XJ was a dirt bike. Just how bad does this look? A "must" replace job?

Note - header looks wet because of BP blaster spillage (see above )






Thanks for any info!

 

I believe that it is, in fact a 1983 XJ650, although it almost looks like it has a XJ750 tank on it... but I could be wrong.

I would drain the oil first before removing the filter, in the hopes that it might make less of a mess. It looks like it could be tough to get the filter cover out, you will have to turn it sideways....

The dented pipes add a certain amount of restriction to the affected cylinders. Ultimately you'll want to replace or repair them If you can take them off it could be repaired by a good shop.

 

The prior owner said it was a 1982 Maxim 650. The registration confirms the year. But the 650 comes in various flavors - 650J, RJ, etc. I don't know which it is.

Getting to the drain bolt looks near impossible without first removing the filter housing. Like I said, less than 1/2 inch - those pipes are really tight in there. The only other option (that I can see) is to remove the pipes, which I am loath to do for such a routine chore.

 

forget the wrench.... you need a socket and extension to fit in there.

 

Your model would be a 1982 XJ650J -- that's the Maxim model. The 'RJ' is the Seca

 

Don't ... don't ... don't mess with that Middle Gear Drain Plug. You'll just snap it off and be cursing the darkness for ever.

There's less than a Test tube full of Oil inn there.
That Oil will be NEW Oil less that 5-seconds after you start the Bike after doing a routine Oil Change.

If you break that Plug ... and more than 4 People have ... so far ... you'll have to pull your Exhaust System off to make repairs.

It is NOT worth the hassle.
Forget about it!

Push it out of your mind.
Hate the idea of having to do all that disassembly because you snapped the head off that Plug!

 

Thanks Rick. I love advice that says "don't do anything". For someone lazy like me, that's one thing I don't have to be told more than once.

Regarding getting to that drain bolt - An extension would work, but because of the way the filter housing angles downward, I see no way of unscrewing the bolt without first removing (or maybe twisting) it first.

 

I have the same type of pipes on my bike not as dented as yours but still dented. I drop the headers of the bike to do an oil and filter change with out any problems.

 

The filter housing no way interferes with getting the drain plug out. Your socket extension will clear it handily.

Getting your hand up in there to put it back in may be a different matter......

 

Any tips for getting the filer housing off? Ive tried PB Buster, and it's not moving. Worse the bolt head is starting to strip. It looks like it has not been removed for a decade

 

Let's make sure we know which Plug is the REGULAR Oil Drain Plug and the MIDDLE GEAR Plug ...

The REGULAR Oil Drain Plug lives on the Front of the Sump ... above the Exhaust Collector ... smack-dab between the No.-2 & No.-3 Pipe.
19mm Hex
Most have a Cross Head Screw ... Dead Center.

THAT Plug is your Oil Drain Plug. OK to remove and drain oil.

ANY OTHER Plug for draining Oil you DON'T Mess with!

Drain Plug and Washer. 31 FtLbs Torque
Oil Filter Bolt. 11 FtLbs Torque

 

6-Point Socket
Long-handle Breaker bar.

Put the Socket on the Bolt end. A 6-Point Socket. Not a 12-Point!!!

Take-up the Un-doing Torque and hold the Bar firmly, pressing slightly to Un-do the Bolt.

Strike the end of the Long Handle Breaker Bar with the WOODEN End of your Ball Peen Hammer.

Repeat the Process of applying this Impact to the Pre-loaded Bar until the Bolt turns enough to be withdrawn.

Note:***
The Entire Oil Filter Housing may turn if the O-ring in the end of the Bolt is Dryed-out and Stuck to the Inside Diameter of the hole that the Bolt passes through.