XJ and quite frankly, cycle noob.....

+1 on bias ply being fine. I run Dunlop 404's and can scrape pegs without issue.

 

I would never "drag a knee". My knees are bad, and I have very little experience on asphalt. I agree with you both. I think I should be more concerned with the appearance, and crowning. I like what I'm hearing about these Shinko's.

 

On the street actually touching a knee down is uncommon. Hanging off however is a good technique to learn. When you come into a blind corner that you think is a constant radius (because all of the earlier ones were) turns out to be a decreasing-radius corner, you'll be able to use your body as a counterweight to allow the bike to be upright enough to go through the corner without touching the hard bits, and without needing to risk upsetting tire grip by suddenly slowing down.

Here's a book for you. Proficient Motorcycling by David L. Hough.
There are several others worth reading, but his is geared toward the everyday street rider.

 

I love it. And my better half will get allot from it too. And i t appears the Avon AM26's are the best fit for me. I can get a rear in 130/70r18 and a stock sized front to match. V rated, bias-ply. Thanks for everyones input!!!

 

Book ordered. Thanks K-Moe!


Whipped this up tonight at work. I'm going to have to make another set. The spring, (and the cheap-ass all-thread I used), bowed a bit too mush for my comfort. I'll have to compress them evenly. I want to get these puppies apart and see if the chrome is worth polishing, or if I'm painting them black (with red springs?)

 

That actually reminds me.... I was wondering about viscosity flexibility with the forks..... I definitely need to drain whats in them and inspect what comes out for evidence of corrosion. I also thought I might even test strip the fluid. When i push down on the front theres not much damping and it sounds like aeration. I imagine they're low. Hopefully the valve stacks are intact

 

Valve stacks? Simple damper rods in yours. No valves.

I think that RaceTech makes cartridge emulators for the 550 still.

The general consensus is that a good 15 wt fork oil is the best compromise between damping and responsiveness. I went 20 wt for a while and found it to be harsh (high speed compression damping pretty near locked the forks up). But all that will depend on you, your weight, your cargo weight (if any) and road conditions.

 

Well, I'm 155lbs with a helmet, chaps, and jacket. And there wont be much cargo. I like what you're telling me though. I should have known. KYB. So save for corrosion, and seal failure, these things probably don't wear out....

 

The bushings can wear (Chacal has new replacements), but other than that, and what you already mentioned, there really isn't much to wear out.

 

I should have put this here, not on "what did you do to your Yamaha today". K-Moe, Len, Dave Fox..... Anyone think this is salvageable? Cyl.4's carb slide is one piece with the bore, so I imagine the pitting there is worse. These slides appear to be coated. My fear is sticking issues down the road, if not an imbalance in the diaphragm caused by vacuum making its way past the slide.

 

I say it's worth trying. See how the bore cleans up with some finishing paper. The slide looks useable.
I also say that having a spare rack of carbs is never a bad idea.

 

It looks fine to me. I'd wet sand The bore starting with 600 up to 2000 grit. I'd do this either way, really. Just a light sanding of the slide, enough to get the crap off, but do not sand through the brass coating.

 

Well #4 is definitely shot.

 

those slides are anodized aluminum, the aluminum has corroded under the layer of anodize and it flaked off. basicly the anodize is aluminum oxide, the stuff sandpaper is made of. that's to the point i wouldn't even use it

 

Agreed absolutely. I've condemned it already.

 

I have an extra slide if you need it. you will have to put the seca needle in it

nc

 

That's awesome Paul!!! Diaphragm intact? And how much?

 

Learning math I hadn't in school.... I look forward to learning in a classroom again. I'm not even sure I've taken accurate enough measurements. But every time I cross subtract/add/divide/multiply, everything sums up. I'll be ready to start cutting plate/ tube soon! Before then, I need to build a vacuum forming table....


Don't panic.... the marks on the starter housing are pencil.... I had to find where my planes were in relationship to the center of it so I could calculate where they fell on the circumference of the tube. And does anyone know why bending paper is harder than metal? Almost ready to calculate the volume of the front half of the box.... Then I can use K-Moe's secret airbox calculator to find what remains of the necessary. At this point the center of this bike is the airbox lol.

 

.....I just noticed.... with the center gusset, it almost looks like a 4 eyed owl!!!! I'm praying it gives a hoot...

 

postage just leave me your address

 

I PM'd you!!! Thanks Paul!

 

Just thought I would just add my two cents- Not really understanding the difference of the Bias and the Radial other then the Bias is more load rated then the radial.
However my point being is that I bought a set of the Shinko tour masters four years ago and I got 14,000 miles out of them.
I only remembered this cause I ran across an old video of mine where I just got my bike back from the shop with new tyres and bearing and just happened to look at the odometer.
I just replaced them with the Battle Axe 45 series just six months ago.
I only ride two pinions up rarely.
My weight is 190-196 depending on the season LOL
Usual riding is from home to work to school and every twisty road I can find along the way. Daily average (50)
Rain only stops me if the sky is Black being as my bike and my gear are also black probably in my best interests.

 

I like the look of the Shinko tread pattern better than the Avon. But Dave K. Has some miles on those. The Avon tread looks like it could "cup" and become noisy. All in all, the best point made here was that I am probably never going to get near the maximum edge of what any of these tires can do. So my preference is that they aren't hard candy in a year, and that they track well, and I'd like to get a few "k" out of them.

 

Whenever I get this baby up and running, provided my back doesn't prevent it, I intend to ride it all the time. I spent a year riding my moped around. It was my primary vehicle. Rain or shine. And it served me well. I even rode it in the snow once (terrifying). That wont happen again unless some early fall freak storm happens to come through. So really, if I can keep my disc from sliding back out, It will absolutely be my commuter. I live 45 minutes from work and I have an all back road route I take. It's breathtaking year round , and there is little traffic when I go in (midday).

 

you sir are a fortunate man to have such a nice ride to enjoy everyday.

 

I feel incredibly grateful that's how it is at the moment. I spent years doing the rush hour. It's inhumane for anyone.

 

As for tires, I have run a plethora of different brands and types. For the XJ, I just love Avon's. Sticky as glue. Definitely more so than what the average rider will push them to. They just didn't last long. For longevity, you can't go wrong with Donlap's. I like the 404's. However, the Shinko 230's are slowly proving Thier worth, for price vs performance and longevity. My current set ( Shinko 230) have about 4k on them and are wearing almost as well as the Donlap's. They tend to get a bit slippery at this point. Very similar to the Bridgestones I ran on a Honda VF1100c. I would recommend the Shinko to any XJ owner.

 

Here is the E.B.C rotor. I painted the center hub.

 

That looks awesome! Lets see the rest of it. I like the red wheels as well!

 

OK

 

I like what you've done and think the bike looks really well put together. I'd caution against that spring clip on the front axle. Standard cotter pin or split ring would be better. I replace my split rings with those spring clips on the sailboat when I'm about to take the mast down. The spring clips come out much quicker and more easily when rushing around unhooking things, but they're not to be trusted for regular use. Just a word of caution.

 

It's hard to see but I have safety wire around the end of the spring clip.

 

That bike looks great!

 

I see it. Safety wire the safety wire! Those aren't the stock handlebars are they?

 

The bars look stock, but not the grips or mirrors. What kind of 4-1 exhaust are you running?

 

Thay are not stock bars they came on the bike when I got it. I can get you measurements if you want.

 

It is Mac 4 into 1

 

Anyone know how to upload a video here?

 

They look like the trackers I just ordered, I had purchased a set of clubmans. Can't do it. It would destroy the bike. I wouldn't have lasted an hour with those things.

 

Upload it to a hosting site. Copy the video URL. Click the film-strip icon. Paste the video URL into the text box. Click the insert button.

 

Oh boy.... Lemme figure that out lol. Thanks K-Moe! Feeling better?

 

I just use youtube and throw the link here.

 

Lungs are officially clear. My head's still a bit stuffy, but that's just a minor detail.

 

Put the headlamps brackets and front turns on today to see how it all fit......


I need to buy a real camera or replace this phone.... She's getting shaky. Old Galaxy s3 on its 3rd screen, 5th gps antenna repair, and 2nd audio jack lol. Sorry for the blur.

 

It was just a short video of some really bright leds in the proto board with resistors, diodes, and a switch to simulate tail and brake light.... I also got my acrylic rod today. i want to play with the optics in the tail cone. I like the idea of being visible from a distance (that and as a child I was nuts over the film Tron. So there will be a bit of influence there).

 

That being said, I like that idea Dave. It's time for me to come out of my cave lol. My better half's daughter has a go pro and she expressed interest in filming the bike some when it's done.

 

Nice work. With the headlight bucket mounted upside down it may effect the beam comes from the light.

 

i notched the bezel to relocate the alignment tabs. The headlamp is right side up. You'd be able to see it if my phone didn't make me look like i wake up to a pot of coffee LOL!

 

I do however wake up to green tea and smokes

 

WOO HOO!!! I'm like you, ever since my back blew out and I was "installing" my socks with long needle nose pliers for an hour every morning, my current limp and occasional "lightning bolt' down one leg or another, is a very minor detail!