And then things got worse...

yes, I kinda like listening to myself talk sometimes. Although I am trying to keep from answering my own questions lol

 

Don't do that. Wisdom only comes from listening to the wise

 

Kmoe says listen to matti

 

From the end of one plug wire to another with caps attached it was 55K ohms, with the caps off it was around 30.3, iirc it should be around 13.3k ohms on the secondary correct?
I'm actually soldering my new wires together as i type this, and i also bought a brand spanking new set of resistor caps so this should solve my problem.

As an FYI, Finding that copper core wire was a small adventure.

The diagram was a mistake on my part, I have since found the correct diagram for it(And it is in color!)

 

I know where to find lots of it. Look up and to the right. See the flashy thing in the corner?

 

My gramma use to say it's even ok to argue with yourself..... as long as you don't lose the argument

 

Once i get it to a ride able condition i will likely buy a set of important spare parts to keep on hand(wireset, headlight, Brakes, chain, fork seals), working in mechanics shops most of my life has given me the valuable lesson of keeping a set of spares for important things. I bought a spare engine and front and back wheels from a guy here at a yard sale for 20 bucks.

I'm like the doomsday prepper of spare parts, eventually i'll have a whole nother bike sitting on a shelf in parts
(It lets me cheat...because technically it isn't another vehicle in the garage )

 

Au contraire, grasshopper. You have a looooong way to go to be in the company of: the east-coast parts hoarder, the upper mid-west parts hoarder, the south-east parts hoarder, Len, etc......

Lol

 

And me

 

Ah yes the hoarders of bike parts maybe there is a reality show in the works as for myself I have only a few spare parts-valve assembly head and a cylinder jug yet it is a start.

 

.... got ya covered in the "etc......".

 

My problem is I hang on to the old stuff that I replace.

 

That's ok-- never know when you'll need it.

Except me-- I always know when I'll need it...... right after I throw it away.

 

The fun part is when you search through everything trying to find the part then stand in the middle of the garage scratching your noggin trying to convince yourself that you didn't throw it away then emptying out the can and crawling around on the floor...found it!

Gary H.

 

Nope. The best part is when you find something you needed a decade ago, for a vehicle that you sold five years ago, after you bought a brand new part so you could sell the vehicle.
I've done that twice.

 

Lol! That's pretty good k-moe.

Gary H.

 

Do you need a front bumper for an '83 GMC 3/4 ton regular cab?

 

Nope but thanks anyway. I gave my son a '94 Sonoma I drove for 10 years for his 18th b-day. He drove it for 6 months. My daily is a '06 Ram 1500. Sorry Xed for the highjack.

Gary H.

 

Its all good
I Enjoy the banter

 

It'd seems that the REAL mistake here is that you sold a vehicle. I sold my high mileage Honda to a young guy at work cuz it needed more money and time than I felt it deserved. He put the time and money into it, and now I have to watch him drive it all the time, AND HE'S DOING IT FREAKING WRONG!! It's like watching him hump my ex girlfriend in ways I never dared.

 

Soooo he's running it hard and putting it away wet

 

It was a wise decision that I made. The truck had almost 200,000 miles on it (barely broken in), but it had gotten to where I was only driving it about 1,000 miles a year. Insurance and tags cost me $300 per year, and I figured that was better spent on other things.

 

I Done did a thingy



I Haven't installed a mount for the rear of the coil, but plan to install a mount there after i cut the holes a bit bigger where the old coil heads sat.



But it looks like it should hold.... Bonus is i had no need to cut the relay tabs off



One down... Few to go.

 

Forks done....


Waiting on brake hoses now.

 

Well...An affair with an orthodontist put my project on hold...3 teeth extracted and all I can do is stare at my bike right now.
Ordered a new air filter, and a master cylinder rebuild kit...Debating buying my brake hoses from xj4ever...Not sure if i want to go stock or go braided steel.

Anybody got any thoughts on the matter?

 

If you want the stock look just go with the Black braided steel lines from Len, that way the best of both words.

 

I hope he wasn't as rough on her

 

Sounds like she can take care of herself!

 

Braided. Always braided. The won't swell under braking, and never need to be replaced (unless cut).

 

Sadly I had limited funds to work with and ended up getting some made by a local fire suppression supply store(Even got them DOT certified) until i can save up the money to get the stainless hoses on it.
Nice to see the date stamp in this century on them at the very least.

The goop guys....there was so much brake goop in the lines and reservoir.

I'm so glad i tore it all down to bits and pieces, I don't think the brakes have ever been touched on this bike, Mainly because the previous owners have shown themselves to be rather....inept.


This is exactly how this came off the bike...No there were no other washers there...Some didn't even HAVE washers.
Replaced the washers and replaced the banjo bolts...and the hoses....Did not need to rebuild the caliper as it looked almost new....still did it tho.

Now just waiting on...well...I'm almost to the point i can ride the thing.
I'm at a loss...nothing else to fix after this. It would seem that all thats left is to colortune and ride it, though i'm switching up the oil to 20w50 for summer from the 10w40 i had to work on it.

 

Back at it again...

 

This pipe thingy really simplifies discovering you have a bad fuel rail o ring...the fuel t free spins now sso i have to break the rack apart.



It never ends does it?

 

Since the rack you show is a Mikuni rack---

You'll find that the Fuel "T" doesn't have o-rings on it (unless it's already been replaced with an aftermarket one already)..... it's a metal "T with a rubberized forms coating that has bumps to be the seals. These wear/ compress over the years and lose their effectiveness. i HIGHLY recommend you get the aftermarket replacement from Len. It will come with the o-rings for it......
So since you're breaking it, then do ALL the o-rings, AND the throttle shaft seals......otherwise, you'll be taking it apart AGAIN soon.....

 

This thing was terrible...


This thing was worse



I Anticipated the fuel t beingmangled and ordered a brass replacement witho rings from a local bike restorer... However I don't have the funds to buy all 8 throttle seals... Got hit with medical bills and I am strapped for cash.

The way it's looking I may not get to ride this season...and i hate it.

 

There are some who use a stack of o-rings.......I don't, but I have the instructions somewhere---I'll see if I can find it

 

Found it----sent to your inbox

 

Appreciate all the info guys....might get it running after all.

 

This thing is about to drive me up a wall.

Got the carbs wet set(Finally), Got ALL of the seals and passages cleaned with flex wire, nice new fuel filter, fresh gas...
Fired it up and....it started with help from mr enrichment switch.

Now i have a different problem, Went and hooked up the carb sync to do an initial balance so i could get it to idle...
Starts, revs to 3k rpm and STAYS there. when cold, when warm....just stays, If I rev it to about 5k it will idle down to about 2K.

I thought i found the issue due to improperly sized vacuum hose to the vacuum petcock...Helped alot not having a 1/4 inch hole in the air boot

Still does the high idle, this is with no adjustment on the sync screws at all and a SMALL adjustment of the idle trimmer on the base of the carbs.

Now I have video




Cylinder 2 is still showing a null vacuum issue unless i rev it, I haven't done anything more than a cursory glance at the intake boots and they SEEM fine, no cracking I can see.

Could this just be due to a terribly bad adjustment on the carb?
I really really would like to not have to pull the carbs AGAIN :\

 

did you bench sync the carbs?

check your throttle cable make sure the end of cable at carbs is properly seated then check to see if you have any slack in the throttle cable.
there is an adjustment at the throttle cable. also check your routing of the cable.
does it rpm hang only when the sync tool is installed?

do you have the cable extender installed it is about 3 inches long the throttle cable does not hook directly to the carbs.

throttle cable lubed?

 

what is your initial setting of the mixture screws? should start with 2-1/2 turns out

 

Mix screw is 2-1/2 turns out.

Throttle cable moves freely and snaps back freely.

Cable extender is installed and routed correctly.

Did the bench sync before i rebuilt carb...

Looks like I'm pulling out the carb again...
Gonna order new intake boots... Might as well.

 

RUNNING synch.

 

my thoughts to. Xed have you actually moved the synch screws with your manometer connected and the bike running?

 

I have, it does change vacuum when i do this...also changes idle(as it should) however, still null on cylinder 2.

I'm gonna pull it off and redo the bench sync just to make sure.

Do i absolutely have to have yics blocked to do this?

 

I don't think many people bother ..

 

Have you ever done a compression check on the engine?

 

I did when i went to buy the bike, couldn't tell you what the values were though. All within 10% of each other.

 

At the risk of stating the obvious, did you check that the vacuum adapter on no 2 air boot is open?
If it would be blocked you would get normal air flow to the cylinders, but no measurement on your gage.

 

Initially that was causing the cold cylinder, but once i hook it into the vac guage then it shouldn't be an issue as it seals it back up.

I'm in the process of moving my garage around to make space for a machinists lathe so I haven't had a chance to work on the bike since my last post...I'm off tomorrow though so I'll be pulling the carbs off and rechecking the bench sync...I may not have done that carb when i had it on the bench.

However even when i first got the bike it was doing the same thing, I tested the coils and thought it to be a bad coil(way off mark using a scope...sometimes having access to fancy equipment is nice), but apparently there was more to it than that.

Can anyone tell me what the cylinder compression is supposed to be?
From what i found it should be at a minimum of 100 and a maximum of 135, with 121 being the average mean reading?


This thing has gained my mechanical ire...The last thing this happened to was a ducati 750ss ...It was good for the ducati but bad for the wallet

 

don't pull the carbs again, swap 1 and 2 hoses and see if your gauge works. put the hoses back then turn 1/2 sync screw, as 1 comes down 2 will go up.
turn the idle up with the idle knob just a bit, continue with the sync and turn the idle down as necessary