XJ 650 RJ Seca '82 - Rounded cyclinder head nut in recess - removal?

Hi all

Anyone got any idea, how I can remove a nut, that's rounded (from corrosion) inside the recess of the cylinder head cover please, whilst the engine is still mounted in the frame? (limited space for manoeuvre, and I don't have the ways or means to remove the engine) Pics attached.

Thanks!

 

- hammer an impact socket over it which is slightly smaller than original size.
- spot weld a rod to the top of the bolt.
- use alum to dissolve the nut (and possibly top of stud?).

 

I have wrench socket (13mm is next one down from 14mm - but maybe an imperial, whatever is a less reduction) and an impact driver, which I can fit that onto, but don't have space (see pics) to hammer on (frame bar above), and I don't have welder, or understand what you mean by welding a rod to the top of a bolt?

I got the other 9 nuts off, by being careful, but this thing, is in the most inaccessible place and has corroded over the years (and you can't see that it has!)
This all came about by needing to replace my collector box underneath. I sheared off a stud from #2 exhaust port, (removing the downpipe) directly behind the frame downpipe. I need to get the cylinder head off, to get at number 2 exhaust port studs, with the cylinder off the engine, and retap, and/or replace (which is directly behind the frame downbar), which have sheared off, and I can't get at it with the cylinder head fixed to the engine.

Would heating the thing up with a blowtorch (pistons, not valves are underneath?) be beneficial?

Has anyone else any ideas, or is there any other way, or can you explain in more detail my options please?

Regards

 

That is a really tight spot! Not much room for hammering, agreed.
The welding thing was about attaching something you could get more leverage on, so like a rode that you could clamp vice-grips to.

That alum ideal. It's been suggested elsewhere for dissolving broken steel studs in the head. do a search. That area seems like a good spot to put the mixture and let it do the work for you.

Here's the link: http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/dissolving-broken-bolt-with-alum.110415/#post-558055

 

I'd soak the crap out if it with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone to help break up any corrosion. Then I'd use one of those new fancy (but affordable) rounded-off fastener extractor tools.


That is a lot of steel to need to dissolve, and the stud is also steel; don't want to weaken it if at all possible.

 

ooh, fancy!

 

Very fancy!
That is Murphy's Law in action . . . There is always that one bolt!

 

Thank You for all your input

My neighbour just popped round and suggested removing the coils and relay unit from the frame above. Now got space to fix an extension up above and to the side of the frame bar, 'hammer on' a smaller socket, and work with an impact driver....gonna try that! (got to get the extra extension first tho')........watch this space...
Regards
Dale Grantham

 

The top of that acorn nut is very thin. You can drill a small hole on top and get some penetrating oil in there.

 

Took 5 minutes to remove that nut, once wrench extender employed. (and hammered on a smaller socket)
Now the cylinder head won't dislodge. Tried wooden wedges, tapping with rubber mallet. Haven't got tyre levers anymore - have got flat edge file.
I've got about 1/3 loose, the left, and left back, but the front (see pics), and the right side are stuck solid.
Sprayed with loosener down stud shafts, and in between the seal where I can.
Any ideas please (broke a bit of fin off by the way, with wooden lever?!)

 

Just hammered some more wedges in between fins around 'sealed' area. Sprayed some more freeing agent in, where I can. Someone has suggested that PO, may have sealed this gasket with 'gasket seal'?, and that's why it's such a pain to release. It's like it's welded to the front end!
Gonna leave it overnight, and see if it has shifted any tomorrow morning.
In the meantime, any other inputs from your fine selves, would be welcome..........PLEASE?

 

STOP hammering!
Did you remove the nut from the underside of the head at the rear of the engine?

Please don't use any metal wedge or lever. The wooden wedges are fine, but all the nuts have to be removed first.

 

Looking closer it seems that the front is what's suck. Take a brass drift or bit of hardwood and give a few blows to the lower stud in the front.
You could also spray some gasket remover in now that you have a gap to work with. That will help to release the gasket from the head.

 

Thanks k-moe.
Yes, I removed both nuts, front and back at bottom of cylinder. Have sprayed some penetration oil in where I can (I'll have a look on-line for some 'gasket remover'), and I have also tried giving that lower stud at the front a few blows with a drift (using lump hammer!) to no avail.
I've removed the wedges out the back, and knocked four in the front (after spraying, and before), so that pressure is on at that point overnight, and there is space at the back for it to move (if it will?)
Regs.

 

Does your bike have the two nuts at the back that keep the YICS passages together?
My 550 had them, they are not mentioned in any manual that I have so it took me two days to figure out why my head couldn't be removed.
After i removed those nuts, I lifted the head without any difficulty.

 

Non-YICS engine.
No passages.

 

LATEST: (See pics)
Managed to free the cylinder head, all the way round, apart from the part with the downward protruding stud at the front. Sprayed again, then knocked another couple of wedges either side of the 'seized' area......Now wait....?
Any other options welcomed....

 

heat?

 

The head being tilted is binding the front stud. Tap her back down a bit, then work on the front again.

 

Ok thanks k-moe, I'll try that.
I've been advised that heat might warp the head(?)
Regs.