Greetings from PA

After ditching my FZ-09 (most uncomfortable motorcycle ever invented by a mainstream manufacturer) and selling my Speed Triple (to make space in the garage) I had an offer I could not refuse - a garage kept '82 Maxim 650 delivered to my door for less than I pay for coffee in a year. And I no longer drink coffee... How could I pass up the 4cyl of my youth, looking for a good home.

I told myself I wouldn't go too crazy, just check out the carbs, take care of the valve cover leak.

Here's where I am so far:

- New (rebuilt) front caliper
- New SS brake lines
- New front & rear brake pads
- All new cables
- Hogfiddles carb reconstruction/restoration (a thing of absolute beauty)
- Replacing all of the engine intake rubber & gaskets
- New fuel shut off valve
- New fuel hoses
- New fuel filter
- Oil & filter change
- New air filter
- Pending valve adjustment
- Replacement of valve cover, gaskets, bolts
- New plugs
- Respray of the tank & side panels
- Respray of the center & side stands, under the seat
- New turn signal and brake lenses
- New clutch and brake levers
- Replacement mirrors
- New tires
- Anything else I decide to add on
- Keeping the buckhorn bars

If I'm missing anything please let me know.
Folks on the forum have been really great, nice to see the support without all of the restrictions on comms & commerce I've seen on other sites lately. Makes me want to keep the bike all the more just due to the company it keeps.

If you see a black 82 650 Maxim rolling around Valley Forge this summer it might just be me.

 

Welcome! You got a lot done without a single post here!

 

Welcome, I will keep an eye out for you!

 

Welcome to the gang Gork
Only thing missing is a pic of the resurrected beauty

 

Working on pictures, went into the garage, then I started taking parts off - still not back together yet but on the way, I'll post some pix to this thread shortly.

 

George- USPS estimates your carbs should arrive tomorrow

Dave F

 

Easter Bunny was busy dealing with fallout from Roosevelt hit... Your treat will arrive shortly.

 

Welcome and post those pics soon.

 

I can show you his new carbs!!! )




Dave F

 

The middle hats look extra shiny. Are they outside hats moved to the middle?

 

NO--- they are just super clean

 

They arrived today. All I can say is:
Holy Crap.
They look brand freaking new - you really can't tell they are the same carbs that went out.
Now I feel bad putting them back and getting them dirty... but can't wait to hear it run.

Just ordered some Avon AM26s to replace the 10yr old Metzlers it came with, my carriedawayness is in full swing.

Now if I can just figure out the best way to take care of the little weep where the rear shaft connects to the rear hub I'd be 100%.

Next weekend or the one after I'm going to try to tackle the valve setting... most daunting task!

 

I like the AM26's I put on my bike. Before you get the carbs on, do the wet set process. Then, before you adjust them on the bike, make sure you've done the valve adjustment. In fact, I'd do the valves ASAP because there's a time delay while you wait for replacement shims. (just speaking from experience).

 

There are oil seals on the final drive. There is also an oil seal on the output from the engine. You;ll need to investigate to find out which one is leaking. Oil leaking from the engine end will find its way down the driveshaft tube and out the other end because there is no gasket at the final drive flange.
Peel the rubber u-joint boot off and have a look there first. If it's dry at the output yoke, then you'll need to pull the rear wheel and final drive off for inspection.

 

Is it possible to remove the final drive without removing the swing arm or is that required?

I'll have the rear wheel off to install new brakes, remove and re pack the rear wheel bearings and install a new tire so I'm thinking it may be a good time to do the work to replace an oil seal or two...

 

1. Do your valve clearance adjustment before installing the carbs

2. Remove the rear wheel assembly. From theat point, the rear drive unit is held on by four bolts. Remove the nuts and washers, and it'll pop right off.

 

Thanks - plan to do the valve clearance while I have the extra room to maneuver!

For the rear wheel/drive shaft seals reading the manual it looks like some require the swing arm assembly to be removed.
I'm not looking to do that unless absolutely necessary.

On the attached image I have o-rings in blue, seals in red.
Would you know which are the most common to leak and/or which don't require a full swing arm removal to replace?

I'm not looking to split the pumpkin so likely just looking to replace 13, 14 and/or 32 in the parts diagram attached.
Hopefully one or all could be replaced simply by removing the rear wheel, removing the rear drive unit and replacing at least 13 & 14.

Thanks again in advance, realize this post is getting a bit beyond a welcome at this point!

 

Took off the final drive and a few other bits tonight - oil is in the input shaft at the final drive but not coming from the top oil seal, so still trying to figure that one out, where in the final drive it could be coming from...

Other than that teardown is nearly complete, just need to drain the oil and start working on replacing the gaskets in the shifter cover & inner baffles, neutral switch, shifter seal, oil level sensor, install the oil filter conversion, clearance the valves, put on the new valve cover gaskets and install all the new carb rubber, gaskets, tubes, fittings, etc. get closer to getting those sweet hogfiddles redone carbs mounted.

Tank and side panels are out at paint, front and rear wheels will be going out to get new bearings, seals, rubber & balanced so hopefully everything will be back in a month or so.

In the mean time all the new cables will go on, brake lines installed, master cyl rebuilt and - along with hundreds of other xj4ever parts - the rebuilt front caliper.

Once the tank is back the new vaccuum fuel valve will go back in, online fuel filter added, all new filters, plugs, battery, bulbs, etc. will be installed and if I can figure out the final drive leak issue get the wheels back on.

So far so fun... no mallets used yet.