1985 XJ700 X Looks like blowen head gasket

Do not fret, we all have those . . . .
Anyhow after Tim builds his fixture he can do a jig (aka happy dance) as he will have over come another victory on his 'rebuild road'.

 

Jig "A jig is a type of custom-made tool used to control the location and/or motion of parts or other tools"

Fixture "a piece of equipment or furniture that is fixed in position in a building or vehicle.
"a light fixture"

The above pulled from the Wed.

LOL you guys crack me up...I get the idea either way, (clarity of writing/speech) A thing you make to hold a thing you have so you can work on that thing in the thing

 

I am quite anal about language. Ask my wife, she loves when I correct her!

 

So that did not go as planed, I will wait until I put her back together to check valve clearance. By the book after I get it running. Turning the cam and then trying to get a accurate reading was not happening.
I did have to do some grinding and polishing of the cam holder cover. The intake shim covers/sleeves on #3 when I first started this came out very hard. When I was putting in all the shims and the shim covers I was not able to put three of them in from the top. There was a definite rim around the top of all three intakes on #3 that was blocking the shim cover. I had to file down and then micro hone that ridge down. This had to be done as the shim sleeves have to be able to come out from the top when the cams come off to be able to change out the shims when needed. There was a little wear on the #3 intake cam journal too, cam looked good with no groves or wear.

 

My dad was a machinist. A fixture is used to hold a part for repair or machining. A jig is used for holding separate parts while welding them into a completed assembly.
Some shops may use those terms interchangeably; my father did not.

 

Seriously. I was going to say this.

Gary H.

 

Garry H,
Yes that job would take some serious "fixture" work to get the head to stay in place. About the first time it moved on me I didn't want to damage it, so that was that. I did take one intake measurement and it was so tight nothing would fit. Once everything is back together I will attempt it again, this time I am hoping at least a feeling gauge will fit, but I am thinking not. Not too sure what shims came with the factory setting, guessing they are all different by a bit. I don't have the specs off my bike at my pc but I can post them later.

This should be the week for lots of parts to come in the mail. Got the new jets on Saturday, gaskets and rings should be here soon.

 

Whichever shims were needed to get the clearnaces in spec. There are lots of parts in the head assembly, and each part has a production tolerance. No two assemblies will be identical, therefore there are no set thickenss of shims that a bike comes with.

Chacal sells very thin shims for just the problem you have (0.00 clearance). Get one so you can swap it around and find out what shims you need. Royal PITA on a X, but necessary. The alternative is guessing (guess two sizes thinner) and hoping you're right.

 

When you get the parts use the same approach as you did with the others...
Be meticulous, organized, take notes as necessary and ask as many questions as needed to correctly complete each task. Guessing should not be a option; knowing is.

Gary H.

 

Got the rings in the mail, tested for tolerance. .015 across the jugs, that is a good thing. Now just waiting on the gaskets to get here and she will go together. Getting the itch as the weather is getting nicer but still snow and ice on the ground. Spin off oil filter kit also came in so that will be going on soon. Sure will be nice to have that on the bike, ease of oil change is a must. Thanks again Len.

 

It was a trying but good day on the 700X, got pistons on, rings aligned and then the fun came. Getting those little buggers in the jugs without hurting anything. That is what took the time and next time if I do this to another bike the proper tools. Just a plastic container and cut out the proper size of the piston and rings. I then used a correct sized hose clamp and started. That took some time and a few breaks to cool down. All in all it went really well as I had them well oiled and made sure not to force it.

I was going to put the head on today too but after reading through the book I seem to be missing one of the "Pins" that hold the gasket and head to the jugs. It was not there when I took it apart, only one was there when I dismantled it. So back to getting more parts or this time Pin in the mail. Sure would be nice to break it in this week with all this nice weather.

 

Got some update pics from the top end rebuild...still one more part to come in the mail and then she will live!

That is how I did my rings, not as fun as I thought it would be but it worked.

 

Head in on slow but sure. I see in another thred that I might have a lot of work with the valve clearance (zero on at least one valve) when I get into that portion next. I will be putting on and taking off those cams a few times in order to get the shims correct.

 

Shims was the name of the game today. I started off with a baseline of 120's on the IN side well almost all of them as I could not find 12 at a price I was happy with. I did this because of how tight the valves were to the IN side of the cams. Anyway, got a good baseline and now have to order the shims needed but only for the IN side. I really lucked out with all the moving of the shims and a lot of guess work, I was able to get the EX side in spec!

The IN side will have 130's almost across the board. I also will need two 165's I little weird but that is what the feelers told me. Took measurements twice to make sure. Yes the cam holders were torqued to spec.

I am guessing my head is getting close to a full rebuild of the valve seats or valve angle at some distant point in time. If and when that comes along I will ship that off.

So back to waiting on parts and then removing the cams and do this all over again. Once you do this a time or two on the X if feels a little better. Still really weird getting that IN cam in place with no slack and the gear in place. Book is okay but they could really be more detailed. MY2C

 

If you think that the X valve clearance checks are fun, go have a look at the OW34; V-4, 7 valves per cylinder, three camshafts per cylinder bank.
Makes me glad that it was a race-only engine.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/ow34-info.1209293/

 

That looks like it might spin up a bit like the sport bikes of today. I do like the fact that the cam chain looks to be the side, easy to work with I would hope. I am still getting used to the old X and how all her little oddities work. So far we have a good relationship and much respect.

 

So close but then she started to leak!! Yes got her all buttoned up today, the only issue before the end was the exhaust. Had to get the little jack out and just fineness it back into place. Jack made it really easy and strapping down the center stand to keep it out of the way.

So as I was filling her back up with coolant all was well, right up to the point it was popped off and then it started. I looked down and sure enough there it was off one of the back lower seals was a drip. I guess I will have to order a set for the bike but I was hoping that I could pull them out and just to the hardware store and get replacements that would match. Unless one of you guys/gals knows that already?

I stopped putting the carbs on and just walked away for the night. I will take a look again tomorrow and maybe just try to start it and the heat will swell the ring and make it all better. I know the wrong thing to do but it is so close that I want her to run. I could fill her up and also the overflow and then give her a quick start and see how she does. Besides it is going to rain her tomorrow and well....I know...do the right thing...frustrated.

 

You'll get it and the frustration will be well worth it when you do.

Gary H.

 

She lives! So now I just need to dial her in and that will be that. Sure does should so much better with the valves in spec, Wow what a difference!



In the next day or so I will have her sync done and then need to do the break in on the rings/hone. Then all the little stuff to make it look a little better. But the mechanical stuff is in spec and she is safe to ride....if this WI weather ever changes.

Putting the carbs in was not that hard, but getting the boots to the air box and back of the carbs...a few choice words. Len sent me great replacement boots and they find great, thanks again Len and the folks at XJ4Ever.

 

Well just when I thought I was good to go, she let me know I needed more work. I have to admit I did not set the fuel level on the bowels as others have with the clear tube, I will now.

For some reason today it would not take fuel into the bowels. I would even blow into the gas line and no go for air. Either that means that all the bowls are full and shut off and ready to start or something is wrong. She would start but that was it, no throttle response nothing but like a idle but only when I had the throttle while open. This was just strange so I pulled the carbs and took them all the way down again.

I found a torn rubber gasket on one of the cross over fuel pipes, so there is another part. Anyone happen to have the size of a brass fitting or any fitting that will bit the fuel bowls? Once I get the "O" rings in I will do the clear tube test on a level surface. I have seen a few pics on here just trying to find them.

Again, thanks for all the support, keeps me going, that and the sound of her running and smooth revving of the engine.

For those wondering, I was only using a small gas tank and I have not checked the oil for the smell of fuel.

As for the jets, I have the main @ 107.5
Upped the secondary by two
Also moved the pilot from 37 to 40.

This was because of the K&N filter.

 

Today's Jumble.

Parts. Chacal. Conversation. Start.

 

Productive day with a sad outcome. Cleaned and wet tested the carbs, they were good and I was happy. No leaks so on the bike they went. Did not put the boot to air box on as that is well something else. I just wanted to see I would have the same issue as before. Got a good AUX fuel source and started her up. She ran well until she heated up, then smoke??? I let her cool down and then came back and tried again....SMOKE!! Third time is the charm and I thought well maybe something in the exhaust from the PO and this would clear with a little run time in the field and then down the road a bit. Once it warmed up SMOKE!!!

I have to ask, is this a valve seal? I am guessing I have to take the head off and change out the valve seals?

On a side note, this bike is really small from the seat the handle bars and from seat to foot pegs, not too sure this is going to work out for my little around town bike? So the question is, sell her or fix her and then sell her?

Loved to hear from the forum to see if the valve seal is the correct action on my bike?

Thanks again.

Tim

 

What color smoke? Where from?

 

More of a cloudy color and there seemed to be "old" dirty oil coming from the left weep hole on the exhaust. I have not pulled the plugs yet to check and see if there is a tell tail sign. I just had to walk away for a bit and take a ride on one of my other bikes. Nice here today in the 60's.

Besides that the bike worked well, a small tick from maybe the #3 or #4 but nothing bad.

 

Might just be condensation. Does it go away once the exhaust is hot too hot to touch?
Does it smell sweet?

 

^^ agreed a white smoke is 'normal' after the bike gets up to operating temp it should go away.
Tim did say he ran it down the road and still had smoke after it was warmed up . . . .

Throwing this out there - cause we got a lot.
You don't have mice issues by you do you?
Although from what others have said here, if a mouse built a nest they usually blow out the tail pipes pretty quickly . . . .

 

Not the sweet smell that would be there from coolant, but I have no idea how much oil or water was in there from the PO. I even had it sitting on top of my double barrel heater in my shop for a while to cook off anything that might be in there. I don't think it did much.

No smoke at all on start up, and yes you would think the little condensation from moisture would be normal, this is more. There seems to be equal flow out of both pipes so not mouse block there.

But I really didn't like the oil drip off the left weep hole, but maybe I just need to run it a little more around and keep checking the oil. With the hone and new rings this could be normal?? Lol, I have no clue, I would think that it would not smoke once it got warm unless there is left over in the pipes and I just need to burn it out.

Thanks for the help and keep it coming.

 

Had a little time today, found that #1 spark plug had oil in it. I took the carbs of (getting used to this) to check the intake side for oil on the valve stems, looks clean no oil. I would guess that would point me to the exhaust side.

I can hold the valves in on #1 and remove the valve cap, springs and get at the seals. Fill the #1 piston with a shoe lace and then bring it up to hold the valves in place as one removes the valve assembly. Hoping this well save me from taking the head off again, just put the new head gasket in.

After a few times of taking the cams off the X you almost get used to it. Not that I want to but it looks like I have to.

 

Another short day with the bike but got down the what I needed to. Did the old string trick and was able to get the spring off the valves and remove the old really hard and brittle valve seals.


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On to the parts.

 

Well done, good persistence ( a lesser man as me would have thrown the towel in by now..) Hope it all works out.

J

 

J, thanks but if this does not work out she will be a parts bike. I do hope this is it, with the new rings and all the other cylinders are working as they should. Will post updates when I am done.

The price of the bike was right and I currently have the time to work on her, otherwise it might not be worth the time.

 

Well once step forward and then slip and fall right on your A**! One of the EX valve keepers went flying across the shop, can't find it. I had to walk away in frustration and wonder what the heck.

So if anyone has a spare Valve keeper let me know. I sure hope I don't have to pull of the head to get the spring compressed enough to get the keepers in place.

That and the really scary part is, if I can't find it, did it happen to drop into a spark plug hole and then into a cylinder. Had the plugs out so I could move the engine more freely. I think I had them covered but just start to question what could happen if you can't find a part.

 

Took the time today to really clean the shop looking for that little part that went flying. No luck! I had the head covered when I was doing the keepers so the chance of it going down one of the cylinders is minimal. I did however make a long magnet and slid it down each spark plug hole just in case. I even hit each cylinder with some compressed air and tried the magnet again...still no keeper.

At this point I think I will button it up and hand turn the engine and then go from there. I had the shop doors open and the one I did find was very close to the door, several feet away.

So either I am heading for a good running bike or maybe a meltdown. More to come....

 

I got some time to work on the bike! Well lots of stuff got a little TLC today, but this is the bike forum. Got that pesky little valve keeper in and started to button up the top end. I followed the book this time and put the exhaust cam in second, something was not right. Would not turn over (by hand) very well, nothing too nasty but something was not correct.

Pulled the cams off and put the IN cam on first and then the EX and what a wonderful difference that made. Got all the bolts to spec and called it a day. I sure hope that I don't have to go back into the head and or valve train anytime soon.

Thanks again for the forum for keeping me a little motivated, love to see all the other posts on how your projects and trouble shooting are going. Great group of people here.

 

Yaaaay! You got the whole process figured out.

1. Do it yourself
2. When you get frustrated, walk away, come back later.
3. If it still gives trouble ask here.
4 TAKE YOUR TIME

I have some bikes that have been on the shop floor for 5 yrs or so.......one is an X, and I lapped all the valves and seats.....had everything. In a special rack that was designed to hold each valve, spring, keepers organized----I put it way out of the way so I wouldn't bump it and knock it over. Weeeeelllll.........somehow, I bumped it, it wiggled, ai grabbed for it, hit something else that fell and got to the valves before my hand--------it took me three days to find all the keepers. i haven't gotten UN-mad enough at myself yet to actually take the time to RE-lap everything. Someday......in the meantime, ai have another X project that cam in, AND 2 X's that I took in in trade and both of them are already on the road now . I'm PROBABLY gonna just take one of them and start swapping all the nicey-nicey parts on to THAT one. For now......

 

I skip step 2 all the time -- and sometimes skip step 4.

 

Honestly, though, sometimes I modify step 2.

 

Update! Got the bike all together and gave it a try. She started up and with a little adjusting she runs really nice. Flip of the throttle and it is very responsive. I kept waiting for the blue smoke to come out of the left side and the oil out of the weep hole of the exhaust but it DID NOT

The vibration of the bike on the hoist made that little valve keeper fall out of some place on the left side of the bike by the rear tire. Have no idea how it got back there, but for those of you (me too) have a bet that it was in the engine or cylinder, it is not Found and bike is safe.

I do have one oil leak on the right back of the valve cover where the oil line comes into the valve area. I will pick up some new copper crush washers and hope that takes care of it. Besides that bike is ready to get on the road!

Next will be the seat, she is really in bad shape and needs a new cover.

 

Still having some oil leaking from that banjo bolt. I put new copper washer on them and snugger it down, still leaking. Pulled of off and used a hand file to "flatten" the surface where the copper washer rests. It helped but still is slowly leaking. I really don't want to use some ultra black to make a little gasket that allow oil to flow on the banjo bolt.

Any ideas?

 

Found that oil leak! It was on the back side of the oil line before the copper washer. I had to make a little gasket from some gasket paper I had around. As soon as I put that little gasket in, the leak stopped. So, wonder if that oil line had a little crack or ding in it? Also wonder if I put a larger washer on if that would have also stopped the leak. Either way, no oil leak and I am able to ride her. So very happy

 

very excited to read this, I have been following this thread. congrats!

 

Keep an eye on that leak. If it's a crack it will want to grow.

 

And how was your ride? I hope she performed as you expected if not better.
Great job

 

The ride was really nice, getting used to the seat position and starting to like it. I can see maybe a wind shield of some type down the road for longer rides. I will have to look into those front brakes. I am so used to sport bikes having three piston front brakes that these shocked me a little. All the little things now like fork seals (maybe) SS brake lines and rebuild forks.

As for the leak, yes I will keep an eye on it and easy to see. It is the high side (left if you are sitting on the bike) oil banjo bolt. I will degrease the engine again just to make sure that I didn't miss anything.

It might be time to look at replacing the clutch as well, I had to adjust the cable a bit. The bike sure does shift nice and I had no dead spots in the RPM range when I was on throttle. I have not wound her out yet as the rings are still in that break in stage.

 

Braided Stainless Steel brake lines will make a significant difference in your braking ability. Bump that up on your list - especially if you still have the original rubber brake lines on.

 

Took her out today for a real ride not just up and down the road in front of my place. So far the oil leak is stopped, and all with the engine is fine. I didn't want to hog on her too much as I still need to set those new rings.

I will ask if the blue dot brake calipers will fit on this bikes stock lower forks? Just thinking of some good stopping power.

Here is a pic of her today, yes working on fixing the seat and also those forks, they need rebuilding.

 

Took front wheel off to do some work on those front brakes. The fork seals seemed to have done their job on the left brake. The PO had EBC pads and they are still in good shape. Lots of cleaning and sanding of the shoe ears to make them move better. Put everything together and added a little high temp grease to the brake pad pin holders. Seemed to worked a little better but still not what I thought the brakes would be like. I know once I put the SS lines on I am sure things will change, as these lines are OLD.

 

You can put blue dots on, but you'll need to make mounting plates.
Add downshifting and compression braking to your stopping routine first though; along with those new braided lines.

 

I was thinking that compression braking is fine when it is needed as this would cause excessive wear upon the engine if used on a regular basis.
As I just invested several hundred dollars into mine I would like to have the engine last as long as possible.
Brake pads are by far cheaper.
Crap I sound like my dad LMAO

 

Ye but the real question is Did you enjoy the ride?