Seca transmission problem

ok - so i guess XJ's hate sacramento or something because i just read about another guy whos engine exploded.

so heres what happened to me - i was leaving work in 1st gear and i gave it some gas and it started to rev up and just gave the sickest crunching noise and wouldnt go. i got it restarted and it sounded fine, but when i let the clutch out it just dies. no freespooling. no movement.

i think its dead.... any ideas?

also, how much will this cost me? i think im fu*ked.

thanks guys.

 

sorry, i forgot to mention the bike is a 82 XJ550 seca - for the info.

 

there is a gear on the left side of the bike that engages the drive with the tranny, I believe it is called the middle gear. I had one go on one of my viragos. It's an easy fix, but you will need the dealer to compress the spring for a half hours labor and get the part, another 50 bucks.. I drained the oil 2x over the next 150 miles and cleaned the oil screen as well. it might be this, or you might need a tranny.

 

mine is chain driven - not shaft.

 

Chain isn't wadded up on the drive sprocket is it? Caught on anything else? Rear brake frozen?

 

If all else fails and you can not get the transmission unstuck, there is always a plan B. Find a Fj, FZ 600 or a Radian engine. Just make sure to get the carb's. Everything else is plug and play.

Kind of wondering if the main chain inside of the engine let go, then again them things are beefy and it's extremely doubtfull that that broke. Here is to hoping that it's something easy.

 

Can you shift through the gears?
Without the engine running ... will it do gear exchanges?

 

i can shift it, yes. its just when i try to go - nothing. it bogs down and dies without giving me any go. i tried in a few gears. ive been riding it for about 700 miles and no problems.

 

Put it up on the center stand.

Remove spark plugs.

Put in 6th gear.

Key off.

Can you turn the engine with the rear wheel? What about backwards?

EDIT: Don't force it. Should turn relatively easily.

 

im gonna check that as soon as i get the bike home - thanks

 

Carl:

Are you thinking it Clutch Boss Gears?
I hope that's not it.

I'm hoping its something like a failed clutch friction disc.

 

well i feel like a giant idiot....

i went to work yesterday on my scooter and got a look at my bike in the daytime and the problem was clear as it was outside.

the damn chain came off

so this weekend im going to pick it up and check it out. i wasnt going very fast maybe 20 mph. hopefully it didnt do any damage. i feel alot better though.

 

That will make the bike not go.
It's also a sure sign you need to take a close look at the Sprockets and Chain Slack adjustment.

You might be ready for some New Sprockets and a New Chain!

(Two lucky guys in here ... this week!)

 

I bet the other lucky one is the one cam sprocket bolt.
I would second the new sprockets and chain. Always change both sprockets when installing a new chain. Makes the new chain last much longer.

 

Check to make sure that there are no cracks around where the starter bolts into the motor. At least it's an easy fix!!!!!

But yeah if the chain and sprockets are really bad replace them BOTH!!! You might think that it's cheaper to replace just the chain but even if you buy the best chain out there it will be worthless in a short while without replacing the sprocekts.

 

well i just had the tires replaced 2-3 weeks ago, so i think the shop would be liable... wouldnt they?

at least free a fix would seem appropriate. i have to wait until monday to call.

 

I would think that you might be barking up the wrong tree. Bike maintanance is something that needs to be done every ride. You need to get into the habit of checking kicking tires and checking chain for slackness. If it's too loose you will need to fix that. Chain maintanance needs to be done every 300 to 600 miles if you are using a non 0-ring chain.

A free fix for something that stretches?? Why wait for Monday, fix it and get out and ride Just get your tool kit out and adjust it yourself. You will save a ton of time (probably take an hour to have the dealership do it) and save some money. Just make sure that both sides of the axle are the same notch or distance equally or you will notice that the bike will dogtail on you.

Realistically it involves removing your cotter pin, get a 22 mm wrench out and loosen up the axle. Then loosen up the locknut that needs the 12 mm wrench then start to tighten up the screws with the 10 mm head clockwise until you get a 1 to 1.5 inch of free play in the chain at it's tightest point. When you have that right tighten up the axle nut then tighten up the 12mm nut and again check the alignment of the rear wheel making sure that the distance is equal. Replace the old cotter pin with a new one. Some people will re-use them but hey for 50 cents is your life worth it??

Hope that helps

Sean

 

After tightening the slack out. Rotate the back wheek forward and sight the travel of the chain from the top of the rear sprocket to the front sprocket.

You'll actually see any variation from it being on there incorrectly.
Look at the way the sprockets are engaging the chain; too.

That's another indicator on how you have the rear sprocket kined-up!

 

well thanks guys i got it back up.

seems the chain is at the furthest aft adjustment and the chain is still loose.

after the chain kick off, the bike wont show when its in nuetral.

is also hard to get into nuetral and first gear when riding.

 

For the neutral light, you will have to get some contact cleaner and take the countershaft sprocket off. Behind there is a wire connecting to a screw. Make sure that the connection is still there, most likely the wire was tore off by your chain.

Sean