83 Xj750 maxim starting problem

I don't under stand the first part of the message.

I will do a bench sync since i got it confused with adjusting the fuel mixture instead of the butterflies.
I used a 6sigma racing jet kit I used a 135 main jet and a 45 pilot jet
Yes I removed all the jets I could including the emulsion tube to clean them and kept track to put them back in the same spots and carburetors I put the big air jet towards the back( closer to the engine) and the smaller one towards the filter next to the screw hole

 

on the carb rack the end of the throttle cable goes into a cup which can be seen in the firs and second photos on this link
OWWW, My Eyes!
the throttle cable also has an adjuster at the throttle grip on the curved part.
there should be some slack in the cable to ensure the throttle linkage returns to the bottom of its arc when throttle is released. loosen it up to see if it fixes your problem.

this is how they go

are the Main jet NEEDLEs in the proper location did you add shim washers or raise them from stock they may be to high if your sigma kit advised you to raise them

 

okay got you. OMG OMG OMG JUST ADJUSTED THE CABLE AND IT FIXED IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! DUDE I LOVE YOU SO MUCH RIGHT NOW I COULD JUST KISS YOU!!!!!!!!

 

2ed person in 2 weeks with that problem, simple things first when all else fails.

 

Thank you man. I was seriously thinking about taking it to the mechanic and getting charged an arm and a leg. I got another question I adjusted the foot peddles but forgot how the shifter peddle is supposed to be clamped down? Is it with the gap facing upwards or downwards?

 

83 xj 750 maxim
www.yamahapartsnation.com
can be helpful for assembly drawings

 

Pictures for Matti.

 

Pictures of what?

What all do i need to do and check before doing a fine tune of the carbs. I've already checked and adjusted valve clearances.

 

the kiss Matti is like beetle juice mention something like a carb nipple or Nice rack of carbs and there he is

here it is

just check the install of carbs every thing tight and your good to go

 

LMAO.

10-4

 

So I was able to pressure wash the paint of the front wheel. But the back wheel is different story. I was only able to get enough off to see that it was a midnight maxim wheel. Do you guys now of away to remove the black paint without damaging the bottom gold paint.

 

1. Never use a pressure washer around bearings, brake calipers, or complete engines.

2. To remove the paint in stages take many, many rags, and gradually wipe the layers of paint off with acetone or thinner/reducer.

 

I've been reading around for fork oil weight for my 1983 xj750 maxim and i keept on reading that it was 10 but the manual says its 20. I went with the manual but now im worried i might have made the wrong choice. Did I make the right choice? I was originaly going to go with 15 because of my weight (280).

 

firrst rowis the seca 2ed row is maxim 3ed row is uk 750

maxim is by manual 10 wt fork oil but you can use 15 or 20 wt fork oil

the seca takes 20 wt because of the touring package

 

Ahh okay. I was going of the xj750k owners manual download you sent me. It said it needed 20w. My bike will probably need it since I'm almost 300 pounds and they were originally designed for way smaller people lol.

I've got another question this time about syncing and tuning the carbs. Yesterday I got my color tune in the mail and later today I will be getting the sync tool. Right now my bike still has the cheapo emgo pod filters because Bike Bandit screwed up my order and sent me only two out of the four pod filters. If I sync the carbs with the current pods will I have to re sync when i put the new ones on?

 

syncing the carbs is really syncing the motor, you are tuning to the lowest HP cylinder so the engine does not fight its self.
once it is set you will be ok ,

but syncing is such a quick thing to check ,you can always recheck it when the other pods come in

 

Do I need to drain the final drive oil if I remove the rear wheel? I found the pdf for replacing the brakes but it does not mention anything about draining the oil but on the pictures you can see that the place that holds the oil is covered in oil that's why i'm asking.

 

You only need to drain the final drive oil if you are changing it, or repairing the final drive. If you haven't changed it I would recommend doing so. It's an annual (or so) maintenance item. The oil that you are seeing on the outisde of the final drive, is it near the breather, or the fill plug, or somewhere else?

 

Awesome. The pictures i was referuing to was the one on the pdf http://www.xj4ever.com/rear drum brakes.pdf not on the ones of my bike. Even tho mine was spewing oil out the crank case breather because the previous owner added 2-2.5 extra quarts of oil.

 

Just had the wheel bearings replaced , new brakes added, new K&N pod filters added, New hand grips, bar end mirrors, headlight grill.

I'm going to be syncing the carbs next now that I have the new pod filters. I bought the motion pro sync tool and I have to sync the tool first to the master carb if i read the instructions correctly. Which is the master carb 2 or 3?

 

3

 

Whats the standard height of the front forks measured from the dust seals to the bottom triple tree. When on the center stand i get about 9 inches when on the side stand it drops down to about 6 and when I'm on it drops to about 4 1/4.

 

That is correct. The sag (fork and shock length with a rider on the bike) depends on rider weight and spring settings (air spressure in the front, coil spring ramp in the back).

 

Can I switch the spark plug wires. Currently they are crossing each other with the first wire from the igniton coil going to cylinder number 4 and the second wire going to cylinder number 1 crossing each other Can I switch it so that the first ignition wire goes to cylinder number 1 and the second to cylinder number four. I bought new wire to upgrade the old wire. I bought the MSD Supper conductor wired that has 50 ohms of resistance per foot.

 

Yes you can. 1 and 4 are a pair and fire at the same time. The same is true of 2 and 3.

 

xj4ever catalog info on spark plug wire
"Most modern spark plug WIRE is resistance wire; each foot of wire has about 5,000 ohms of resistance in it because of the type of wire used. All of our wire is non-resistive wire (zero ohms of resistance----as is the original plug wires used on these bikes)."

at 50 ohms it will add some resistance but should keep you in spec of total ohms.

 

Picture update. I installed the hella vision plus and a Genssi H4 LED bulb, I got the LEDs in the gauge cluster to work. I removed the rear fender and wired in the LED tailight and blinker strip, Bar end mirrors, Added the new spark plug wires and a spark plug cap waiting on the other 3. I found out only one was near spec the others were off and the capacitor rusted so decided to replace all of them. Bought a ignition switch cover of ebay and sanded and painted it. I think the rear shocks are blown since they hiss when compressed and decompressed. I don't know if its normal or not I would like your input.

 

more pictures of the headlight brightness and bean pattern plus the LED brake light and blinkers

 

pictures of the cluster with the LEDs installed and the bike during the day

 

more pictures during the day

 

Last set.

 

Looks awesome, I hope to put LEDs in most of my 82's sockets eventually. I've even got a dent in my tank in the sane spot as yours, ha ha.

 

Okay guys I just noticed something. I went to check on the bike this afternoon. I noticed that I very small of oil was soaking trough the left hand side of the head gasket seal. I also noticed that on the left hand side on top of the muffler collecter box was wet with oil. The screws at the bottom left side near the shifter lever had oil on them and the area near the crank case breather was soaked in oil. I don't think it was coming from the breather since I had replaced the old filter it had with a new one and it doesn't show no signs of it had spilled oil and I removed the exces oil the PO had put on the bike. Also last thing I noticed was the oil window had a milky white fog to it, I thought it was smoke so I opened the oil cap and blew in to it and only saw a small wisp of barely visible smoke come out. I closed the cap and looked at the window again and the oil level had risen (I had had it running to see if could spot where the oil leak was coming from) and the fog had left but it left a noticeable white creamy streak on the glass. Basically from your experience how f***ed am I? Tomorrow I will be removing the exhaust to get a better view from the bottom of the engine. I will take advantage of removing the blanket of rust on the collecter box and spray painting it once it's off. I will replace the crank case gasket since it's also soaking trough on the bottom.(Do you guys know the torque pattern for the crank case cover) I will drain the oil since I'm assuming the milky stuff is from watter and I don't want to risk it having it in my engine and adding new oil in. My main concern right now is the head gasket having oil soaking trough it it's not a huge amount but you can tell the gasket is wet with oil. Will it be fine to keep running it with the head gasket leaking how it is once I get the other stuff fixed or am I screwed and have to take the engine out and apart? I have a engine gasket kit but my main concern is taking the engine apart and screwing something up since I don't have any experience besides taking the valve cover of to adjust the valve clearance. Also I think I might be worth messioning that I'm running seafoam in my gas at the recommended 1 oz per gallon. I will let y'all know what I find out once the sun comes up.

 

Update. I took off the exhaust and degreased the it along with the engine. I noticed that the dark spot would not come off even after sanding of I decided to put it back on and after I cleaned the bottom of the motor and see if I could locate the leak. I tighten up the crank case cover ( the bots where really loose) I took the bike for a small 10 minuet ride and there was no oil leak so I lucked out there. Now the main issue is still the top part of the head is still leaking I looked at it when it was running and noticed that Bubbles of oil were coming from the gasket.

Is it possible to take the top part of the head off with out removing the whole engine. I also noticed a thin cloud of white smoke that came from the muffler is that because of the head gasket leak? I'm worried that i'm going to have to deal with the piston rings and have to rebore the heads since I have ran out of cash to spend on the project and that seems like it would cost a pretty penny. I'm already $1250 in plus the $750 i paid for the bike.

 

Nobody said restoring these bikes is cheap......I paid $2,750 for my bike in '82.....spent just about that restoring it......

Take your time when money allows.....

 

yes you can remove the head with out removing the motor from bike. you say rebore are you talking about the cylinder "jugs" also can be removed .
white milkey residue could be water that was in the motor. you removed excess oil but did you drainit and put new oil in it?

there is a seal on the shifter that may be leaking