Throttle cable issues

So after I took my carbs apart and put them back on the back my idle has been around 4k. I saw the other run away idle thread and found out that my throttle cable is holding the throttle open causing this issue. I made sure everything is tightened down so that isn't the case. What else could this be? I did do a bench sync could I have them too far open? (Synced them with a business card folded in half)

 

If you bench synced with a folded in half business card and did not turn the idle down then that is the problem. Turn the idle screw and slow it down.
My method for bench sync is to use a 1/4 wide strip of printer or copy paper and set each carb to have the same "drag" sliding the strip out. Each set of carbs I do like that give a idle speed around 1100 to 1500 rpm with the mixture screws turned out 2 1/2 turns. Fine tune from that point.

 

back off of your idle knob a little

 

what do you mean by my throttle cable is holding the throttle open causing this issue. back off on the cable adjuster at the grip

 

Okay I'm sorry if this is confusing but ill try my best to explain.

So when I have my throttle cable attached to the carbs but not sitting in the little cup that the cable end (before the barrel end thing) should rest in. My idle rpm sits around 1.8-2k. When I set the cable into the little cup my rpms jump to about 4k-6k. Now I have backed out the idle screw (the one in the center of the carbs) pretty much all the way out with no change in idle speeds.

Also now that I think about it I might not have backed that idle screw out when I bench synced it. Could that be part of the issue?

Also I can get the rpm to drop of I push down on the throttle shaft?

 

at the throttle grip is an adjuster it shortens and lengthens the outer cable of the throttle cable. shortening the outer cable creates slack on the inner cable you need to adjust this so you can put the end of the outer cable back in the cup and have some slack on the inner cable
if disconnecting the throttle cable from the cup drops your idle the problem is in the cable.
1 not adjusted correctly
2 wrong cable that is to short
the idle screw is used in the bench sync to set carb 3 you may want to back it off a little to set idle to where you want your idle 1050k with the cable off

you should be able to move the throttle grip a little before it starts to pull on the throttle shaft

 

It idled fine before this last cleaning... I adjusted the throttle cable to be as short as possible and backed out all the fuel mixture screws except for 1 (couldn't reach it) but ill look at that one more tomorrow. The idle screw is backed all the way off and I'm still having the rpms run away. It will idle at 1.5k for a few seconds then once its had a second to warm up it runs away.

 

in this link
OWWW, My Eyes!

when you say fuel mixture screws..
are they the 4 screws to the right of the 4 enrichment plungers shown in photo 2?
or the 3 screws seen in photo 3 with the springs?
when you say
"adjusted the cable to be as short as possible"
you mean the outer sheathing?
to give you the max amount of inner cable exposed

 

cable adjuster
this is where you cable needs to be to start giving longest inner cable
this photo is longest outer cable shortest inner cable

were you able to put cable in cup with your adjustment?

mixture screws should be lightly bottomed and then turned out 2-1/2 turns to start
if your screws are course it should be 1-1/2 turns

My suggestion would be to look at the work you did.
cable routing is important carbs in fully and secured?

 

Again, I appologise...

I'm not very mechanically knowledgeable so the words/names I use are most likely incorrect.

I am talking about the 3 screws with the springs. And yes I made the outer sheath to give me as much cable as possible.

were you able to put cable in cup with your adjustment?

Yes I can, but the idle will still run away. Its like the cable isn't long enough or isn't retracting as much as it should

 

Unhook the throttle cable, if it 'dies' after choke is off, thats your problem

 

It idles at 1.5k when the throttle cable is unhooked with no choke on.

 

Ok, so it seems like your butterflies aren't closing, OR the 'choke's' are stuck on.....it should die, with no choke, no cable....IF your butterfly screws are backed all the way out

You might have to physically verify, airbox, pods off, that the butterflies are closing completely

 

I plan on taking the carbs off again... (4th times a charm... Right?) To look at the butterflies again.

 

I do remember after I synced them I could see some light through the butterflies. But regardless ill back off the idle screw all the way. Then bench sync. And see how that goes.

 

Well, they SHOULD be open, tiny gap, at idle, maybe it's the throttle cable, too tight, or choke(s) stuck on, wait, you ruled the choke out, right?

 

... Now that I think of it... I don't think I did... Shoot.

 

If you disengage the cable, back the butterfly screws out all the way, in theory, your butterflies should be dead shut= no idle, if she still idles, and choke is off, she's running rich, stuck choke?
Unless your butterfly shaft is binding/bent??
How are the plugs looking??

 

They look a little black and sooty

 

Running rich then, possibly.......

 

I think I found out the problem. The barrel end wasn't fully seated... Dumb move me... Dumb move

 

So I took the little rubber plugs on the engine intake side off at it runs better with them off than on. What would cause that?

 

You are letting in more air......if she's running rich, and you allow air into the intakes (little rubber plugs) you are 'adjusting the mixture...although the wrong way, as to a more agreeable Air/Fuel ratio

You can't run with those rubber inlet bungs removed, you have to work out why she is running rich..float heights, stuck choke(s)....., blocked air filter, first

 

your enrichener circuit is on, or partially on. undo choke cable and see if it closes further.

 

Just an update for everyone, I fixed the issue. I had not correctly bench synced them. They are now properly bench synced as I no longer have a cold start issue. Thank you guys!

 

You do not want to fold the business card in half, that would leave to large of a gap in the butterfly. Just cut a thin strip of the business card off and use that as it is the correct thickness. Others have suggested using a straightened out paper clip but I found the business card method worked well for me.

 

What you really want to do is look at the idle mixture outlet in the carb throat, and set the throttle plates so that they cover about half of the hole.