'83 Xj550 Seca Restoration Project

i was thinking used tank NOS parts are quite expensive here to0

 

No used tanks atm, the XJ is not a very common bike here. Guzzi, Ducati and Honda CB's parts are easier to find. Even the NOS tank I found (like most of other available used parts) is located in Germany. By the way I want to save money for the 4 in 2 exhaust collector. Eaten away... Pulverized I would say. I thought it would be stainless steel...

To restore the seized plug thread (cylinder #3) I was thinking of buying a 12mm back-tap (eg. NAPA TOOLS 3689). This way I could get the straight directly from the lower part of the thread and most of the swarf would get taken out by the tap itself. Has anyone ever used one of these taps?

 

Never used one of those; sounds like a keen idea.
Would be concerned if it is possible to cut the threads too deep if you aren't careful...
Curious to hear if anyone has used one.

 

I think they are called thread chasers here used to reform threads

 

just got one by BGS on Amazon, as far as I understand you can't overstretch the tap by turning the rear nut. It's like on/off by pulling/pushing the internal shaft, then you lock/unlock the tool with the nut. Anyway I'm going to check the diameter with a caliper before any attempt at reforming the thread.

 

As someone who decided to kream coat his tank after finding a small bit of rust from the PO. Don't... Acid etching or electrolysis is the best route. The epoxy coating goes bad after about 8 years of having gas constantly on it.
The project I am dreading is removing all of that nonsense after spending a lot of time repainting the tank.
I happen to have a spare 4-2 manifold for an 83 xj 550 seca, it may fit yours. PM me when you have a chance.

 

Your friend is a wise man (lady?). I used steel wood screws as I perceived their sharp ends would do a better job at scraping the crevices. I would save the alcohol until the end i.e. water/detergent/screws-water rinse-phosphoric-water rinse-alcohol (water absorber)- hair dryer-
cup of diesel swilled around to protect.. If you find leaks after the phosphoric then a liner or lead solder repair may be needed..

 

Here is a couple of videos of what I had to deal with. I haven't finished it. Project is on hold right now. Once I finish the tank and the video series for it (have to sliver solder part of the seam), I shall post it in the how-to-video section. This method is good for saving the paint. In my case, saving the paint was not practical. Therefore, the third video shows the start of the paint stripping process.

 

I have disassembled and cleaned the fuel petcock and this are the results





Now the phosphoric acid has cleaned and stripped the aluminium leaving an oxide layer which can be brushed away and then painted black (on the outside). There is some corrosion here and there and a hole in the main body. The hole could be TIG welded. Do you think the parts can be salvaged with a rebuild kit? Btw I have found compatible on/off petcocks on the bay starting at 14.95€ and some OEM parts like this one
http://www.ebay.it/itm/Yamaha-Virag...156467?hash=item1a30a34673:g:AtYAAOSw9GhYf3Q8

 

waitaminute. What hole concerns you?

I think I found it:

 

nothing wrong with using an on/off petcock just remember to shut it off or your fuel may end up in the crank case one day if the float needle fails on you.

 

Today I have been trying to restore that stripped plug thread. The back-tap stopped halfway going down-up, however I didn't had the chance to investigate because, due to exceptional heat (today we had the pleasure of 104°F) and countless mosquito bites, I decided to stop before making a mess. Meanwhile I will try to source unrecoverable parts or try to restore smaller ones (everything that can be done at home with air conditioning).

 

Yeah we had some sunny intervals here too, T-shirt weather at least. Think it might have nudged 70F..

 

We have had lows in the upper 40's.... Global Weirding