Removing gas tank on 82 Maxim 650

I just bought this bike a couple weeks back and everything works great. It idles a little rough but I will take care of that later. My first project for the winter is to get the tank painted and while I'm at it get the bike ready to sit indoors for a couple months. My main question is how to properly remove the gas tank. Also is there an easy way to remove excess gas with out riding. Is some kind of a pump an option to suck out the gas through the main fueling opening.

I would appreciate any pointers.

 

Hello,and welcome! Your tank is simple to remove. Start by unlocking and removing the seat,then remove the bolt at the rear of the tank. Lift the rear of the tank,and remove the 2 lines from the petcock. As long as the petcock is NOT set on prime,fuel loss should be limited to what was in the line. As far as removing the fuel,I usually put a piece of fuel line on the larger of the 2 petcock nipples,and put the other end in a large gas can. NOW is when you want to switch the petcock to prime,as it is a "free flow" function,and bypasses the vaccuum operated diapraghm inside the petcock.Perhaps someone else has a better idea on how to empty the tank. I suppose you could use a siphon hose to empty your tank while it is still on the bike.
Best of luck to you!

 

If you're gonna siphon it, make sure you get a clear tube, like from a pet store for cleaning fish tanks. If you get one with enough length you can see when to stop sucking away at the tube. The extra few bucks is worth the avoiding drinking some ol' 87 which takes a bit to get the taste out of your mouth.

 

Better yet,get a siphon with a bellows. That way,there is no danger of ingesting OPEC's finest.

 

Just get 3 feet of 5/16 fuel line.

Disconnect carbs from large nipple on fuel valve. Put your 3 foot fuel line on the large nipple, other end in suitable container. Switch fuel valve to PRI. Do this on the side stand as it will put the fuel valve on the low side of the tank.

After tank is drained then remove as described above. You can then rock the tank around to drain the last bits out.

Corrosion is a concern if you're going to have the tank empty all winter. I recommend you coat the inside with some oil. I used a marine fogging oil on one I have sitting.

 

Does electrolysis really work for ridding rust in a tank? Or is an inline fuel filter the only thing that is effective?

 

The inline fuel filter is the cheapest insurance you can buy for not having to pull the rack and Clean the Float Beenies!

An Inline Fuel Filter and your American Express Card ...

"Don't leave home without it ..."

 

Thanks for all the posts, this is really a big help.

I have one last question for MiCarl. After coating the inside of the gas tank with marine fogging oil does the oil need to be removed somehow? Or, should I be able to reassemble everything, gas it up and go. Also ware do I pick up this type of oil.

Thanks again.

 

You can get fogging oil at any boat/marine shop. I suspect you can get it other places too.

You don't need to remove it, just gas and go. Also a nice thing to put in combustion chambers if you are going to store it. Disconnect coils, pull plugs, spray a shot into each cylinder then crank it over a couple revs. Spray a bit on the end of each plug and reinstall in the engine.

Don't forget to reconnect the coils before you try to start it.

 

Another silly side question.

When you say "crank it", I assume you mean turning it over with a wrench on the timing plate?

 

I imagine you could just use the starter. With the plugs out, it's not going to fire.

 

It would crank without the coils?

 

Yes.
You only need the Starter to Crank it.

 

Oh... yeah right. I knew that.

Should he plug up the plug holes with a towel? I can envision the fogging oil shooting out of the holes when it cranks.

 

You can cover the holes with shop rags.
Not much should come out.

Don't put the plugs in LOOSE ... they might BLOW OUT Damaging the threads.