XJ550 1982 MAXIM: Bleeding front brake

I am having some problems with bleeding the front brakes on my 1982 XJ550 according to the Clymer manual. I fill up the reservoir with new brake fluid and pump vigorously with the bleeder valve open at the calipers, but there is very little fluid movement thru the clear tube attached to valve as fast as I can pump the hand lever.

What does this mean? Is my master cylinder defective? How does one test the master cylinder? Thanks!

 

Try with the lid on your reservoir, I had the same issue once and I just placed it on without screwing down and it worked.

 

You sure that's what the manual says??

If you are bleeding the old fashioned way, its open the bleed nipple, pull the brake lever in, close the nipple, release the brake lever. Repeat this cycle until the brakes are firm.

You can make life easier by using a mityvac or one way bleed nipple.

If you have completely drained the system it will help to slightly open the banjos at the reservoir and the caliper.

When done, tie the brake lever back and leave it overnight. This will expel any remaining air.

 

If you open the bleed nipple before squeezing the brake you are guaranteed to introduce air into the system via the bleed nipple.

1. squeese the brake lever

2. crack the bleed nipple

3. close the bleed nipple

4. release the brake lever

5. repeat

 

I put new lines on my 550 Max. I gave up trying to bleed the old fashioned way after about 30 mins. The problem is that the MC really doesn't move a lot of fluid with each stroke. I went to the auto store to get a vacuum pump to bleed the brake. Filled up the reservoir, hooked up the vac, was done bleeding in about 45secs.

K-moe is right about the order though. Use the handle first to force the bubbles to the top of the caliper, crack the bleeder, close it. Repeat repeat repeat.

 

Guys you are the best. Got it working.

Funny story. I did the Step1-5 above w/cover-on (about 200 times) until brakes got OK, but just fair. Took it out for a spin but the disc/caliper heated up such that the remaining air in the line expanded and locked the brakes full-on. I had to go full throttle just to creep back home; luckily I stayed close. About 20 more Step1-5 above vomited out all the remaining air and now the breaks are perfect!!

THANKS ALL!

 

If you open the bleed nipple before squeezing the brake you are guaranteed to introduce air into the system via the bleed nipple.
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No you wont, it works fine. The miniscule amount of air that may enter will be expelled as you repeat the process. Highly unlikely though, google gravity bleeding.

 

I don't need to google gravity bleeding. I've been bleeding brakes for 30 years. Yamaha brake calipers have lots of places for air bubbles to become almost permanantly trapped. Letting more air in during the bleeding process exacerbates the problem that bleeding the brakes is intended to solve. Using the gravity bleed method is fine, but it requres the use of a partally filled bottle of brake fluid and a hose to act as an air lock. You can't just leave the bleed nipple open and expect to get air bubbles out of the system.

 

Well, you have nearly spent as long bleeding brakes as me then. As per my original post the lever is pulled in to assist. Once the tube from the nipple is full and is submerged in the jar, away you go.

 

You left that part out

 

My front brake didn't work one bit so I tried all of these steps and still nothing. Finally decided to pull the bleeder valve and check it; sure enough it was clogged. Cleaned it out real quick. The way I did it that only took me about 8 minutes was:

1). Open Master Cylinder Resevoir
2). Top off with fluid
3). Squeeze brake
4). Open valve
5). Close valve
6). Release brake
7). Repeat 3-6 until no more air bubbles in drain tube attached to bleeder valve (about 10-20 times).

Make sure the reservoir ALWAYS has fluid in it so no air is introduced to the system.

The little air introduced into the caliper while removing bleeder valve came out right away and I haven't had any problems with trapped air.