Vacuum Leak on XJ 550 Maxim

Hey guys so as the title says, i've got a vacuum leak on my bike, and i don't know from where, but i am suspecting its from one of the hoses thats not plug into where it should be, or my old Carburetor Boots! i need some help finding and solving the problem, i have already ordered some new Boots and they should be on there way, but i need to figure out where this hose thats not in the Engine goes in the mean time, So let the investigation begin!.

 

there is only i vacuum hose it is the smaller hose on the petcock and it goes to one of the brass ports on the intake manifold boots if you look at them each one has a tube and cap the vacuum hose goes on the one with out the cap. if you still have the old hose replace it with 4mm vacuum hose. you must use vacuum hose.
the manafold boots can may have a leak as well. clean off the boots with carb cleaner then coat them with black rtv fuel resistant type. you can do the same to the airbox boots. second option is to replace them.
you may also want to replace the caps and clamps.
the next thing to do is use carb claener or wd40 or unlite propane torch to check the throttle shaft seals each will cause a change in the rpm when used

 

Okay I'm gona take a look at them, when i get a chance.

 

see the brass ports thats where the hose goes and cap the rest.

it is the smaller id hose . fuel line is 6mm

 

If you replace carb boots, I recommend avoiding the cheapo ebay ones. Several on this forum report they have had problems with them literally disintegrating on the inside.

XJ4ever (top right link on this site) is a good source.

I just coated mine with RTV and its been good for several years.

As mentioned, propane, WD40 or starter fluid can be spot sprayed in areas of suspected leaks, and listen for engine idle change.

 

Well i already bought them so guess We're just gona have to wait, see, & find out! I paid 98.99 i dont think thats cheap! and i was looking at the carburetor/starter fluid solution, and figured maybe if i can get it to idle then i could check with some starter fluid, but the engine just keeps stalling out then dying on me, so i said forget it I'm just going to buy the New Boots and see if that fixes it.

 

View attachment 28139

Okay, and I'm trying to attach a picture but it will not let me, I'm using my Phone!

 

Okay, and here is the Hose thats not in the Engine.

 

Here are more pictures!

 

That tube looks to me like the battery overfill drain tube/vent. It attaches to the side of the battery, and runs down to underneath the bike.

As mentioned above, my stock '83 XJ550 Maxim only has one vacuum tube. From one of the carbs to the petcock.

 

Okay, so it must be the Boots or something else, well thats good, that narrows it down to just a Carb/Boot Leak/ but i'll check some other area's just to make sure!

 

Have you FULLY rebuilt your carbs? This could also be source of problem ...butterfly seals after 30 years are many times leaking from rubber drying up . To obtain new seals go to xj4ever ( you WILL NOT find them on eBay) ...To replace you have to pull carbs off the rack and pull butterly plate and pull shaft ...This is the time to fully soak the carb bodies in carb cleaner ( READ CHURCH OF CLEAN) . Be very careful removing boots bolts can snap, when putting back in put anti-seize on the threads of the bolts before installing .

 

+1 ^^ 0n the shaft seals check them with spray

battery drain hose it hooks to battery if you have a wet cell

 

why do you think you have a vacuum leak?

start with the simple things like the vacuum hose 4 mm
high idle did you back off of the idle knob at the rear of carbs?
throttle linkage lubed and free moving?
properly adjusted with a little slack?
seated properly in the cup?
you do have the little short cable on there too?

 

Alright fellas so i found the source of the problem! Vacuum hose/line was off of the petcock, must've happend when i was messing around and fixing with the Electricals, just took him for a spin, and he ran fine, still gona replace the boots when they come in so i won't have too many problems in the future with the vacuum system!

 

now on to the next one, i need to bleed my front fork but the bleeder valve is rusted/seized how do i go about getting it off?

 

And also does anyone know where or how to dispose of our motorcycle's batteries?

 

Most walmarts have recycling on batteries , you should have a core charge if you bought a new battery , even if you ordered on line you should be able to find a place that will take your battery on line local to your area. Thanks for thinking about the environment

 

I trade mine in when I buy a new one to avoid core charges.

My bleeder valve was not really rusted, but hadn't be opened in 20+ years (mine is a one owner bike). I sprayed it with penetrating oil a couple days in a row before using a high quality (8mm?) box wrench to open.

 

Are you refereeing to the brake caliper bleeder valve ? If so soak in penetrating oil ( PB blaster/ Kroil) and See if you can free it , if it snaps off you will need to drill and try an easy out.

 

This is a picture of it! and do you know where i can get the oil from?

 

Penetrating oil can be found at any hardward store, discount store, auto store. I got Liquid Wrench penetrating oil at Wallyworld.

FYI - WD40 is not a good substitute.

 

TECH TOPIC: The Real Costs of Maintenance

The Information Overload Hour

 

Make sure you use the CORRECT size 8mm box end wrench or 1/4" drive 8mm deep well socket .

 

In NY state, "retailers must accept, free of charge, up to two used lead batteries per month from any individual. It is illegal to dispose of these batteries in the trash."
https://www1.nyc.gov/nycbusiness/description/automotive-battery-collection-and-recycling

 

So i tried to use PB Blaster on it but it still won't break lose! The Nut which the 8mm wrench wraps around has stripped so i'm not sure what to do without making things worse, is there any other way to bleed the fork without using the bleeder valve?

 

No there is no other way to bleed caliper. One thing you can try is to put an open end wrench on bleeder and put a small piece of pipe about 2ft long this increaces your arm force ...you could get some pvc or brass or copper as long as it fits wrench .

 

If you haven't rebuilt the caliper, then the job of removing the stuck bleeder becomes less-risky.
Pull the caliper off to rebuild it, knowing that you won't be reusing the seals. Now you can gleefully apply heat, and candle wax, to free up the bleeder.
The main reason that they get stuck so badly is that the sealing face gets corroded by old, contaminated, brake fluid. Since the surface is fairly broad, that makes for a very difficult bond to break-free.

 

As k-moe said, if you choose now to rebuild it, it becomes much simpler. Honestly, it's worth rebuilding it to not have to worry as much about getting it out. I've had to do similar on auto calipers before. Had one that had been rounded and attacked with vice grips. Had to heat it and drill it out.

 

Battery overflow

 

I have had good luck welding a nut to the bleeder even if they are broken off and getting them out that way. The trick is to work them back and forth not just trying to back it all the way out in one shot. I can also see, especially on a mc caliper, that too much heat can and will cause issues with the seals inside

 

Hey guys we'll psotpone the bleeder fix for now! I've got some new issues to have arised! so i got the bike going everything looks good so far, but now the rear break light is staying on, and when i press the rear break pedal nothing happens, and also my throttle is stickng.. what to do?

 

Replace the rear brake switch. Lube the throttle cable for starters. The brake switches are plentiful and cheap.

 

Check the brake light switch on the front brake lever purch. The switch may have popped out keeping the light on.

 

Could you show me a picture of it!

 

I will get a picture when I get home tonight. It will be late. Someone else may post a picture before me.

 

Alright thanks,

 

Alright guys so i got the bleeder valve free with a pair of 3x Grip Locking Pliers, but now it seems as if there is no pressure in the line/caliper, so as i pump its not building up pressure! And another problem has arose out of thin air, it seems like im having a parasitic draw somewhere in the Electrical system, does anyone know how to test for a draw i have my multimeter and i have been testing but im not sure where to place the dial! Here is a picture of my multimeter

 

Parasitic draws are usually small in amperage but as I see your meter in unfused on the amperage side you're going to have to be careful. Disconnect the battery ground cable and give it a few minutes for anything on the bike to power completely down, then hook your meter in series(red lead to battery terminal, black lead to ground cable) and read what you have. Start pulling each fuse and see if your reading drops out. That will tell you which circuit(s) are likely the culprit. You have to switch the read lead on your meter to the left of the black lead and turn the dial to the DC 10A. I'm sure someone will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Here are some pictures. I hope this helps.

 

Well turns out the front break switch works fine when i pull it in, but when i press on the rear break i get nothing and when i plug the yellow wire that comes from the rear break the light just stays on and when i unplug it the light comes off so I'm not sure, and plus when i unplug the ignition fuse the short/draw goes away so what now?

 

the rear brake switch is adjustable to compensate for brake peddle position (brake peddle is also adjustable)

do you have draw with key off? and no draw with key off and fuse removed?

 

your ignition wiring. places to look if parisitic draw exists with key off and ignition fuse inplace.
1 voltage regulator may be faulty. Br(own) wire . unplug regulator see if draw goes away. also measure for voltage at fuse holder both side before and after unpluging

 

Hey Guys, Alright so update time! I've Got The Bike running and everything seems to be working fine, i installed the New Boots and i have No Vacuum Leaks so far, and i rewired everything up and made sure to electrical tape any wires which had some of the wire exposed, i've tried everything to get the rear break light to work when the pedal is pressed and nothing, so i am just going to order a New One when i get the chance and hope it works! I have checked for a Parasitic Draw But feel like that's not it, because the bike doesn't get drawn down when the Key is out of the ignition it remains with proper voltage readings 12.4-12.5-12.6v when left all night long no power drainage except for a few volts pegged off from sitting, (the usual)..Now the Problem is when i turn the Ignition on, the bike will drop from 12.5+ to around 12.29-12.35 and just stay around that area, so I'm thinking i have a problem with Charging System!---Continue

 

I have Already taken off the stator Cover and Checked the Rotor and the Rotor reads around 4.8-4.9 volts so i know that's good, i checked the Brushes and got readings across both brushes! So their good, but i don't know how to go about checking the stator, im going to check the Manual soon when i get the chance and see if i can find the procedure to go about doing it, in the mean time hopefully one of you guys may already know how!

 

Also i have Bought a New Regulator Rectifier (Used) and same thing no charge i have tested both my old Regulator/Rectifier and the New/Used one, and have researched, most of what i have learned about them states that if the Regulator/Rectifier goes bad then too much Voltage will be getting sent/through to the Battery and essentially fry it, so i don't think its the Regulator/Rectifier, so far, all Charging componets have been checked Including the battery, except for the Stator, so that's my last piece to check for faulty function!

 

The slight drop when turning the key on would be normal. The charging system needs to be checked with the bike running; spec is 14.5V =/- .3V at 2000 RPM and up.

 

how do i test the stator? without taking the cover off?

 

wires in the connector of the voltage regulator


all the info you need is here
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/the-ultimate-relay-switch-sensor-and-diodes-guide.27543/


Checking Alternator Stators:

Measure the resistance across each pair (white1 to white2, white1 to white3, and white2 to white3) of the three white wires (white1, white2, and white3) at the connector; the specifications should be:

0.50 ohms +/- 10% for all XJ550 models.

Checking Alternator Rotors:

Measure the resistance across the two lead wires (usually brown and green) at the connector; the specifications should be:.

4.5 ohms +/- 10% for all XJ550 models.

 

These are the readings im getting, when i test arcoss all 3 wires White1 to white2 white1 to white3 and white2 to white3 i get 0.00 ohms, when i touch the positive lead from the multimeter to the battery and the negative lead to right prong i get 3.32 ohms, here are some pictures! I have also test the Connector with the 3 black wires and get a reading of 0.08 across all 3, also a new problem has arose! i've had the bike running pretty well besides these charging issues, i took it for a test ride to make sure everything was ok, beside the known problems and when i brought him in for a landing i stopped, everything was fine, i put the kick stand down before i turned the starter switch off, the bike shut down and has not turned back on since!.. when i put the key in the ignition and turn it on all i get is my brake light coming on Nothing at the dashboard! When i press the starter button all i get is the oil light coming on, i charged the battery and put it on the bike about 15-20 mins ago, and still nothing! I have also tried putting it in and out of gear back and forth! But still nothing and it wont go into neutral, atleast im not getting the indicator/green light like normal so i don't know what to do from here!