Vacuum Leak on XJ 550 Maxim

side stand switch is sticking. with bike in gear bike should shut down when kickstand is deployed. touch your probes together see what you get for a reading. meter should be set to lowest readings for alt testing

pull out the side stand relay put bike in neutral see if it starts

 

Alright.

 

My arms are long enough that I can reach down pull on the side stand switch piston and pull it it out the last little bit that sticks..... try pulling the piston out out any farther

 

That is not right and it would appear you have a blown diode in the regulator. Disconnect the regulator and perform the diode check per the FSM.

If this is the male terminal side (main harness / rectifier) this would also not be right. Once again check the diodes in the regulator per the FSM.

Check your battery again with the DMM, those readings on the regulator could cause it to deplete quite rapidly. Recheck fuses also.

Diode check below, note that polarity will likely reverse as the Yamaha "pocket testers" reverse the polarity on the leads. Most modern meters have a true positive and negative when selecting the diode scale. The maim point is one direction on the diode is approximately 540 ohms, and when the probes are reversed it should read open.

The side stand relay does not affect the starter circuit, but the side stand switch does if trying to start in gear with the clutch pulled in and the side stand up. Since the OP has issues with the bike not cranking he has other problems.

 

Update time! So i got him out of his gear snag and he starts right up, now i believe we're getting somewher, so remember when i said i bought a New/Used Regulator/Rectifier? Well i decided to just say screw it, go for broke and buy another one, this time Brand New, to Eliminate Problems hopefully, so now that i have a brand new one i put it on the bike and still no Charge which means its got to be something else in the charging system! Im thinking its the stator! Because i took the cover off and checked the rotors and got a reading of 4.8-4.9 the brushes i don't remember but i did get a decent reading, however the stator is still the only thing im left to truly check for faults, because when i checked the 3 white wire leads that come from the stator it read OL "Open Line" on 2 of the white wires/leads and 3.32 on 1 of them so i think that's my problem, if the stator is grounding to the frame on the inside how do i go about rectifying and fixing it, if that is the problem?

 

Need some clarification as I can't quite make out in the pictures what is going on.

In the below pic that you posted, the male terminals are usually part of the engine harness and the white wires should go to the Rect/Reg assembly. This is where you are showing OL on two of the pins and 33.2 ohms on the other, which indicates an issue with the Rect / Reg or perhaps wiring harness.



Note that it not unusual to read a bit high on the stator because of the low resistance, but a reading of around .6 should be expected with the DMM set to its lowest scale.

 

I Measured the Connector with the 3 Black wires and they Read .8 when i measured the Connector with The 3 White Wires, 2 of the 3 leads read 00.0 and 1 of the leads reads 33.3!.. so what's going on?

 

Its all good, i got that issue fixed, i just put in the sidestand, pushed the start button saw that it wanted to start, and just pulled in the clutch and rolled the bike back and forth, until it came back into proper gear, lifted up slighty on the gear shifter and into neutral it went, problem solved!...

 

So the stator is likely OK, and you also verified no path to chassis ground on the stator connector?

As for the 3 white wires the OL (00.0?) would be normal. The 33.3 not so much, but checking continuity on those wires with a battery connected might create some strange results. One leg of the AC Generator also goes to the diode block and then to the headlight relay, but I would suspect there would have to be defective components to cause that low of a reading. I would suggest disconnecting the battery and try again to see if the 33.2 ohms goes away.

Next on the list would be a point to point wire check using the DMM and verify the wiring to the Rect / Reg is per print. It's an easy process and should take just a couple of minutes. As you check continuity point to point, be sure to check each wire to chassis ground to look for any other anomalies - battery still disconnected.

Also, please describe you process for checking the charging system. I had first posted about this when you mentioned just turning the key on and the voltage dropping. So to verify, you are starting the bike, revving above 2000 rpm, and verifying the voltage across the battery?

 

Alright so check it! I have completely undone the wiring! And have disconnected all of the relay's and i still get the same result with just connecting the positive wire and the negative wire up to the battery! I set it to Ohms to see if it still happens and it does, strange part about it is when i touch the two leads from the DMM Which is Connected to the battery (via Aligator clips) it goes away! so it looks like something is grounding to the frame on the inside! problem is i don't know how to check the inside of the engine for faulty wiring..

 

Too hard to follow what you are really doing here without being there. The stator, field coil, and brushes are the only charging system related parts that are somewhat inside the engine.

It's a simple system comprised of the stator, field coil (rotor), Rect/Reg, brushes, and interconnecting wire that is regulated by controlling the amount of current through the field coil. The Rect/Reg has two purposes. The Reg portion senses the output of the battery, if low the amount of current through the field coil via the brushes is increased strengthening the magnetic field in the field coil to raise the output voltage of the stator. The Rect portion rectifies the AC Signal from the stator converting it from AC to DC and applies it to the battery to charge it.

So, keep it simple. Follow the directions in the FSM to check each individual component as directed - a portion of it was posted above. The FSM is a very good procedure and takes just a few minutes to accomplish. Ask a question specific to a certain step if needed.

And please address questions that are asked.

 

Aright so update, i have replaced the Brushes and the Stator with (used) working ones and still No Charge! I want to remove the old Rotor to put on the New/Used one i bought for it but do not know how to get the Bolt/Screw off that goes into the rotor and secures it to the crank shaft, also i found this Wire that apparently has broken off from its connector, i don't know what it goes to (Picture Included) so I'm going to crimp on a new connector for the broken wire and see what happens with it and if all fails i will probably have to buy an Impact Drill to get the Bolt/Screw off which Secures the Rotor in place! Also funny thing happens with my Regulator/Rectifiers My New/Used one and my Old one both Charge the Battery when i rev the bike up to 2000+ Rpms but when at idle they do not charge the Battery!. The New Aftermarket one that i bought Does Not charge the Battery at all! regardless of how many RPMs i bring it up to it just drops to 11.8 11.9 and does not charge at all!. The Old/New one and my original one when revved brings the battery to about 14.5 so i have no clue whats going on with the Regulator/rectifiers!.. and last thing so i was out for a ride and i guess the right exaust Muffler Baffle came out/off does anyone know where i can get another? I don't know where Chacal is on the Forum! Thanks guys!..

 

Pictures of the Broken Blue Wire/Connector

 

http://xjbikes.com/forums/forums/xj4ever-supporting-vendor.23/

This is Chacal

 

I didnt see the baffle for the Exhaust/Muffler of the Xj 550 maxim!

 

Btw do you know what that Blue wire connects to? because i do not know! But i just replaced the connector with a new one!

 

The exhaust stuff is scarce. I have no clue about the blue wire. As for charging, my bike won't blow the horn unless it's revving. The charging systems on these bikes leave a lot to be desired. A battery tender is a must.

 

No charge at idle is normal for these bikes, Sounds like your charging system is working correctly.

 

Not exactly

 

Perfect if that is 2000 rpm, you have a working charging system. Spec from Yamaha is 14.5 +/- .3 at 2000 rpm and up.

I believe on the 550 that is the neutral switch

 

Really???? Are you serious!?!? Because my battery could be at 12.3v start the bike up, and after a ride its at like 12.4 12.5 but does not charge at idle/sitting still with the Engine Running!.. I thought that it was supposed to be putting out 12.8-13v at idle, i.e sitting still while running?!?

 

And thats exactly what i get as i rev the engjne up, the moment it hits 2000+ then the voltage reading starts to go up on the Multimeter, as i let off the throttle the reading goes back down on the Multimeter and it stops charging! And just hovers around 12.3-12.4-12.5

 

so if its not the brushes, not the Stator, not the Regulator/Rectifier, Not a Short, Because i have checked that Harness through and through and have completely rewired it so whatever mistakes that were there are gone and I've made it nice and tidy, apparently there was no draw, because I Checked EVERYTHING!! & when i took the battery off of the bike, set my meter to Ohms and took a reading on the battery i still got that 33.3 Ohms reading, so turns out that was a false Negative, i have Checked all Charging components! And even replaced 3 out of 4 of them so im down to just the Rotor! But the Rotor puts out a Healthy 4.8 Ohms Reading! I've Cleaned the Slip rings with PB Blaster and there is Continuity All the way through both of the rings! And the Wiring, the bike only Charges when i rev it up pass 2000+ Rpms and does not charge at idle what gives??[/QUOTE]

 

Have you, per chance, put a new headlight on your bike?

 

Nope, its the stock headlight!

 

Is it supposed to charge at idle?

 

well, it's a technical thing----- you will not "charge" below 2000rpm, but you should not be "Losing" current. You should be providing enough juice that you're 'breaking even".

http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/charging-problem-no-charge-at-idle-charge-above-that.59652/

http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/battery-and-reserve-power.14177/

 

Exactly what he said. Now if it idles at 10V then you have serious issues.

 

That was my first though, too......but I don't' remember the color of the wire on mine, and I' haven't had the time to go take a peek

 

yes blue wire is neutral switch just need a small ring terminal to fix it if the wire is long enough

this thread explains the charging system and where to look if it is not working has charging specs it is way down the thread . it is full of useful info you can use.
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

to contact chacal you have 3 ways of doing it hover over in box click on start a conversation and put his name in it or go to his website www.xj4ever.com and there is an email address there info he also goes by Len for the email. he may have a used exhaust for you, will have the connector if you want to get it from him .
if you go to this thread
XJ4Ever - Supporting Vendor just click on his avatar and start a conversation

 

Yep... that's exactly what i'm getting!... so i've had no problems with the bikes charging system at all this whole time!.. well.. im pissed!!.... Alot of wasted time and wasted Money!.. and the only things i have gained are spare parts and more knowledge..sigh

 

But you DID get something out of it .....

 

True...oh well..alls well that ends well! Now on to more pressing matters (The Rear brake Light) The Rear brake light still does not come on when i press down on the pedal, the front break light works fine but not the rear and i have bought and replaced the switch, have tried turning it in and out but i get no response, also i have on my harness this Extra Yellow and Chocolate Wire which when i connect them together the rear brake light magically comes on, but when i disconnect them the Rear brake light turns off what gives!?!

 

You have a front brake light ?!?!?

Do you have your switch plugged into the harness?
Show a pic of what you have, what you're connecting to get a light, etc....

Something either isn't wired correctly or you have a faulty light socket or bulb

 

Disconnect the rear switch wiring.

Turn the key on and verify you have 12V (input) on the main harness Br wire to the rear brake switch.

If good, momentarily short the Br wire to the Y wire (output) on the main harness, the brake light should come on. If no 12V on the Br wire there is an open in the main harness somewhere that will need to be isolated and repaired.

If the brake light does not illuminate with the wires shorted then something is not connected in the main harness.

If the brake light illuminates, then you either have a defective or misadjusted switch.

Check the switch, it is normally open. Connect the ohm meter across the two wires for the brake switch. Depress the brake peddle and verify the reading goes from open to shorted. If it remains open, adjust the switch so that the plunger is pulled further out. If it is always shorted, adjust the switch to reduce the pull on the plunger.

A pic of that would help like Hogfiddles suggested. Perhaps that "chocolate" is really brown, and the yellow sounds like the rear brake light switch output so it likely needs to be connected.

 

Here are some pictures

 

So this is working, brake light on with wires shorted together - a good sign.

So do this and it should work.. And you do have the spring attached on the brake switch from the plunger to the brake pedal? And you are connecting those two shorted wires to the rear brake switch? You can also manually operate the rear brake switch by pulling the plunger out, which should make it go from open to shorted.

 

Got it! I'ts fixed Now it works perfect the plunger was just a bit too far down and i also had the wiring mixed up because you know! Bull shit wiring antics from previous owner/owner's!... sweet, that's one less problem and finally i can feel safer knowing that people can see me breaking when i press on the rear brake pedal, and not feel like someone just might ram into me because my rear braking light was out lol

 

Alright, on to the Next! I'm speaking to chacal right now and waiting for him to get back with me, so hopefully he has a spare (right) Muffler/Exhaust i coud grab from him, and last problem i have so far is with the front brake currently it does not work and i have no clue how to properly rebuild it so we're going to have to look into it, right now its just not getting/building up pressure as i try to bleed the brake, and I'm not sure why!..

 

Camillus, NY huh!?! You DO realize you're only about 50 min west of me, right? Lol

 

NO WAY! Sounds like i need to make a little trip and make my life easier!

 

Could i swing by to your place and maybe you could score me 1 on 1 with the MC rebuild? That'd be cool!

 

Let's see what we can figure out-- I'll send you a conversation with my phone #

 

https://m.ebay.com/itm/82-YAMAHA-XJ...178474?hash=item4899c08d6a:g:T5kAAOSwuxFYvbwx

 

This is what i need guys, not the WHOLE Exhaust System! Just the Brown Muffler/Baffle and really all i need is the Baffle that inserts into the muffler! Heck if i can put on a New After Market Muffler/Baffle Combo that would be cool, but im not sure if it would work out..

 

Hey guys, does anyone know how to remove the front brake switch?

 

Push a small screwdriver into the small hole underneath to depress the retaining barb

 

Could you show a picture, because I don't see such hole.

 

Just got home... I'll go take a pic after I eat