carb help

Has anybody fabed a stand to hold tha carbs while you rebuilding them?

 

I don't have a stand per-se' ... but I do have a good sized pan with a chrome plated grill-work raised above the bottom for Cleaning.

I can set the Carb on the grill and Clean ... the Carb Cleaner falls-off into the Pan and the Carbs are left clean resting above the Carb Bath.

 

sounds like a home-brew oil drain pan of sorts.

 

Ok thanks. I'm just think of something to hold the carbs level as I'm reassembing them and checking the float levels. If I come up with something i'll let you gys know

 

Its a grate made out of the side "Window" of a Big Dog's Crate that forms a shelf in a Parts Cleaning Bin.

You can put some filthy carbs on it and spray them and toothbrush them as you clean ... the Cleaner and dirt pass through the grate into the bin leaving Cleaned-up Carbs behind,

I pour the "Catch" through a coffee filter in a funnel and recycle the Carb Cleaner to soak nasty Fuel Bowls.

 

If you back off the airbox boots into the air box, its easier to check float levels with the carbs on the bike. with no airbox boots in the way, its easy to pull them on and off, and you don't have to build anything. Doesn't work so well if you work on your carbs in a different location that the bike though. I thought of making something for a while, but since its something you hardly ever need, its fast and easy to just use the bike.

 

Or ...

Drive some nails into a board that you hang on you garage wall. Make sure the line of nails if perfectly level. Cover the nails with Vinyl hose.

Tether the Carbs so if they fall it won't be a disaster.

You just put the Carbs on the shelf of covered-up nails and do the readings at Chair or Eye level. (I prefer chair level. Seated is comfortable for me while doing this.)

Take your readings and determine which one is right ...
Then, using a HOLLEY Float Height Ruler ... you can measure which one was on and adjust the other three to the measured height.

No hit and miss.
One time deal.
All four the same-a-rooney!

 

Thanks. Can we add a beer holder to this as well

 

I use an old set of carb holders. Screw them to the front of my workbench, add a bit of tension with a bungee cord to keep them from sagging.

 

That's a great idea. I guess you only need the two outside manifolds to make that work ... or, do you use all four?

 

Just 2. I guess that means I have a spare set!

 

It is a GREAT idea though.
You should do a write-up and take credit for your ingenuity.

 

<sniff sniff> I smell XJCD submission...

 

No, I think Ric just farted. :twisted:

 

Can anybody recommend some cheep oil I can put back into the eng just make sure I've fixed the sticky float or what ever was causing the gas to get in the oil. I'm not going to keep keep it in there I just don't want to keep spending $20 on good oil until I make sure the problem is fixed.

 

Last batch of oil I put in my bike was 10-30 Wally-Mart High Mileage; $1.62 a quart, I think it was.

 

I've been told not to put regular oil in because it will cause the clutches
to slip. I have some Castol 20/50 syn that I got a good deal on, but it's
regular auto oil.

 

I believe as long as it isn't "Energy Conserving" you're alright. The friction additives that are in the Energy Conserving oil can make your clutch slip. Check the circle on the back where it lists the grades/classifications. The lower half of the outside circle is where it usually says "Energy Conserving" or something like that. It's getting harder and harder to find "regular" oil in places like WalMart. I've been using Pennzoil in my dirt bikes (high performance MX bikes) with no problems (but I change it OFTEN) and in my XJ as well. I buy it in the big ol' jug...5 quarts or something like that.

 

Just thought of something :idea: ! I DO buy the Harley-Davidson oil for my Harley. (Not interested in YOUR opinions on MY bike choice :? so save your "anti Harley" nonsense for someone who DOES care :mrgreen: )
The reason being that I talked to a guy that said the HD oil, which is obviously made by someone, has longer...uh...forget the term....'particles' for lubrication that break down more slowly than 'normal' motor oil and will be better in air-cooled engines. The oil grades recommended in the HD service manual basically equate to the oil used in diesel engines. That oil is about the same price as the HD oil, so I buy the HD oil for peace of mind. The POINT is...after all this rambling....that maybe HD oil ( 8O gasp!) would be good to use in an XJ since it's air cooled....

Anyway, that just hit me. One of those classic, "DOH!" moments, ya know?

 

Kerstingm, what ever house oil that is on the shelf at the 99 cent store that doesn't have an an energy conserving rating should work just fine for running the motor under little or no load troubleshooting.

 

Thanks for the help

 

I think somebody got the "Regular vs Synth" wrong.

Regular Oil is preferred. Can't damage clutches.
Synthetics with friction additives ... not recommended.

 

I was talking about regular auto oil verses motorcycle oil.
Also do you recommened that I check anything else while I have the carbs
off and full access.

 

Look over the Intake Manifolds and inspect them for any cracking. It's easy to put-on repair Epoxy or other sealants while the Carbs are off the bike.

Using a Rubber Ear Syringe (Pharmacy) ... fill it full of Carb Cleaner Spray and douche-out both the Pilot Air and Jet Passages. Likewise, the Starter Jet Siphon Tube which the Syringe fits over.

If you cleaned the Emulsion Tubes ... (Don't even neglect to do them!) ... Then, lets fine-tune a bit.

Roll a strip of 1000 grit Wet-O-Dry Paper that will stuff into the Float Valve Cylinders and twist a finish on the Float Bodies to help prevent Sticking Floats.

Shine the Bores for the Diaphragm Pistons. Use fine (Gray) ScotchBrite.
Bring the Bores to a clean and performance oriented state.
Search: "Clunk Test"
Make sure they definitely CLUNK.

Add a whole new dimension to how well you can Tune the Bike by Polishing. to a mirror finish, the Diaphragm Bores.
Dremel, Polishing wheel, Jewelers Rouges #5-&-6.

After you get all the Pre-Tweak Fine Tuning and Polishing done.
Apply for a Tweakers License. You got some Tweaking to do!

Then, after the Tweaking gets all done nicey-nicey ...
Apply for a Pilot's License.
Your gonna need one.

The bike's going to FLY, bro ...

Bring it IN!

 

Molecules? Polymer chains? Hydrocarbon chains?

 

Well I'll be diving into them tomorrow let you know how it goes. I have all almost all of the tools to get er done.

 

Ok I've gone through the carbs didn't really find anything that would have caused #1 to flood, but I cleaned them all out. found what looked like gasket sealer on the bowl gaskets (DAH) I don't know what somebody was thinking on that, but there was a little residue in the bowls I got all of it cleand out. I also was able to polish the piston slides with some 8,000 grit polish looks and works great. I couldn't get all of the jets out I tried a couple and somebody went Hulk on tightening them so I left them alone for now hopfully everything is ok. I just soaked them in cleaner and blew them out.
I'm going to replace the fuel line, vac line and add a filter. I'll find out how it runs hopfully by Fri. I'm getting that itch and it's only been about 4 weeks. Is there any last words of wisdom before I put them back on the bike?

 

Did you clean the Emulsion Tubes ... actually remove them?

Fuel Bowl Bottom metering Jets to Enrichment Circuit Supply clear?

Siphon Tube Open and probed?

Diaphragm Piston Bores re-finished and / or Polished??

 

I did get the piston bores refinished and polished. As far as removing anything the only thing I was able to get out were the needle valve seats.
everything else was to tight and I started to mess up the top of one of the jets so I left it for now before I caused major damage so I'm hoping for the best since it was running good before this all started. If this doesn't work I'm probably going to look at sending them out. With working my two jobs it's been a pain trying to get time to do this. The one thing that I made sure of was any where I sprayed the carb cleaner I made sure that it came out the other side so I'm pretty sure nothing is pluged.

 

kerstingm:

The fact that the cleaner "Came-out the other end" is a good sign. Dont forget to take a look at the Float Heights, too ... if the drains are loose enough to check.

By the way ... please complete the "Signature" section of your Account so that we have "Thumbs" on your bike when you post.

____________________________________________
Year - Model - Mileage - Stock or Mods - Current Project

 

Do you have a Big Lots? usually $1.00 QT. Cheaper yet? people drop off oil at auto part stores after their 3,000 mile change, check clarity with a screwdriver. I save my oil out of my nice engines for my nasty engines. Edit--This was supposed to be kinda funny due to the price, but since I never actually put used oil in my bikes, I shouldn't have recommended it. I now have a greater appreciation for these bikes and XJ-ers.

 

Anybody who is too frugal-minded to buy new oil for the motorcycle that brings them so much enjoyment ought to be ashamed of themselves.

The engineering you are protecting with the whole 3 quarts of oil (or less) that needs to go in our bikes deserves new, clean oil.

Not something that somebody dropped off for recycling.

Unbelievable! If you can afford to be online reading this highly restrained reply ... you can afford new oil for your bike.

I Moderated my own message Post.
It should have had the word "Cheap something" in it a few times.

 

Wow! I was just wanting to make sure I wasn't going to hurt anything by putting auto oil in to trouble shoot, but at least I'm going to put new oil in.
Thanks Rick for you input and help with this. I'll let you know how this turns out.

 

While I can understand saving oil out of respect of the environment... I am with Rick on this one. These bikes are Sooo very much greener than cars, not to mention SUV's and Trucks. I know mine gets an oil change very regularly, and every time with a new filter and Fresh oil. It saves me so much money on gas and insurance, while being better for everyone in general. I think she deserves the good treatment.

Not only that, but just imagine all of the particles that slip past your oil filter in either your car or your bike, filter the oil and dont take those particles out. Would you put that back into your bike?

 

The place where I bring my used oil to uses it to heat their garage. They have a special burner that uses it as fuel. They love getting oil that hasn't been driven to the nearest Star and back, to use keeping the shop warm all through Winter.

 

I just had to pay $600+ for heating oil for my house, so burning old auto oil doesn't sound too crazy. Especially if it's free!!! Neither does making bio-diesel in the basement or back yard. But burning it seems to make a heap more sense than using it "protect" the inside of an engine that you want to keep running.

 

Well back to the drawing board. Put them back on turn the gas to primary
and watched the gas come out the air box vent. Would you say I have a bad
needle valve?

 

Yep. I'd say you have a Stuck Float.

Did you try rolling-up some Finishing Paper and resurfacing the Inside Diameters of the Float Bodies?

 

No I'll try this. Do you know if I get rebuild kit if the needle valves come in them

 

If you get Aftermarket Floats ... you get new Needles with them.
The Aftermarket Floats are from Overseas. In my opinion, they need to be "Dressed-up" before installation.
You need to shine the inside of the Float Valve Bodies with some extra-extra fine finishing paper (1000 min.)

Then, you are sure to have Floats the work right and wont stick.

 

Do you know if there are any pictures posted on setting the float levels
as far as where to measure the float from?

 

The easiest Visual is:

The level needs to come-up to the top of the lock washer that the screw holding the Float Bowl to the body has between the screw head and the Carb Body.

If you get the level to the line between the Screw Head and lower part of the Lock Washer ... that's close enough for Govt work.

If the level is below the Screw Head ... raise it until you are above the Screw Head.