XJ650 RJ Seca 4ko Rear Drum Brake Sticking

I have all the things on the list and my bike has the smaller flanged spacer which did have me thinking as the wheel has a recess under the brake side bearing but even when I put a 1 mm shim behind this bearing it still locks up.

The final drive housing looks like it has the spacer in which sits flush on the inside .

The bike is at work so I will need to pop in and check the spindle dimensions against your dimensions.

Is there anything that can fall out of the wheel or drive when left lying around for some time which can happen with a chain drive bike with spacers.

 

I have been looking at lots of drive units on E bay and I have found one with what looks like a spacer protruding out of where the spindle goes.

It looks like I could have been thinking that the spacer was in place and flush so I am going to work to have a good look around to try and find another spacer which looks a bit like the one inside the hub, and hopefully sort this issue out.

I suppose this is one of the problems of taking so long to do the bike that you can forget the simple things that seam obvious at the time of disassembly and that you will not forget!

When I stripped the engine down I did it all over the Christmas holiday 2016 so as not to lose any thing and I have been so focused on altering the frame ,battery box, air box etc that the wheel and drive unit have been moved around a few times.

Thanks all for taking the time to reply to what hopefully is just a case of a missing item.

 

I know 550. He needs to put a screw driver or scratch awl in the other end of the shaft BEFORE he tightens the castle nut and pinch bolt which prevents the shaft from being pulled through the frame and keeps the wheel aligned.

Gary H.

 

Well after 3 hours of going through all my boxes of motorcycle parts (do need to get some on E bay) I had almost given up and was going to look at ordering one..

I though I would have a look under one of the benches that run around our workshop and there it was at the back among some rubbish where it has been for over a year.

At first I was not sure that it was the correct part as it is so slack when put into the drive unit,but when I put it on the spindle it was a nice fit.

Wheel now in place and torqued up with the back brake working fine.

I did use a screwdriver in the hole on the spindle to stop it turning which I gather is what it is for rather than stopping the spindle from passing through the swinging arm .

I have started to read all I can on the forum regarding the electrics as that will be my next phase of the build as I have bought an M-Unit and fitted different Yamaha controls and speedo.

I do need to learn how to put images on the site as what I have changed might be of some use to another member.

 

Incorrect. Putting something in that hole before tightening the castle nut will guarantee a loose wheel.

I still think it's an issue with your spacer inside the hub. Take everything back off and measure the length of the spacer for me.

 

Reading thru again......

Questions---

1.are you making sure you have seated the rim ALL the way onto the splines?

2. You said that if you back things off til you can turn the wheel, it turns but feels 'notchy'. Does it turn smoothly if you install JUST the wheel?
If not, then I'm suggesting the final drive unit may be bad. The wheel just turns on the splines. There're no 'mechanical' parts on the wheel itself.

3. Last, you DO realize, I hope......that once you figure this out you are going to have to take it all apart again anyway in order to install the driveshaft, right?!?!?!

 

I now know that I had mistaken the part that the spacer fits into as the spacer its self and as I took the wheel out over a year ago I had forgotten what it look like.
It has not helped me that parts catalogue that I have been using online is not over clear.

I am happy now that I have found the missing spacer that the wheel turns fine and that the spindle is tightened up correctly.

I did not intend for this build to take so long but deciding to strip the engine when I noticed the crank seal leaking and a busy time at work has dragged this out and I now wish that I had taken more images when I took the bike apart.

 

So, from reply #3--- lol

 

It's all good..... glad you're able to proceed

 

So am I, next up when I have the time will be the wiring which is where I think I will struggle.

 

Know that we are here, and will help you through that, too

 

When I first rebuilt my bike I was having the same issue with all the parts correctly installed until I did this. Just saying...

My bad.

Gary H.