No Idea

Hey guys. Took carbs back off taking to get float hights re checked.
So I did a clunk test again and carb 3 and 4 diaphragm arnt seated properly. And drop to fast.
Hope that's where the problem lies.

 

Not possible.............

 

The clunk test is performed with the top-hats off. If you did it that way, then it's 1 and 2 that are dropping too slowly. Lightly polish the bores (not the slides) with a scotchbrite pad.

If you performed the test with the top hats on, then inspect the #2 and #3 diaphrams for pinholes and tears.

 

Still wasn't sealed properly with the hat on.

 

Clunk test with hats off is a pass

 

No pin holes in diaprams.
If it still continues to be shit it cannot be the carbs

 

did you put the tab in proper location I assume you have a tab on diaphram being an x you have mikuni carbs correct?

ohm out the ignition system and replace sparkplugs

 

Everything is in order the way its supposed to be. The floats are spot on..Its been bench synced . Its been run synced .
The carbs are clean as a whistle . there's no holes in diaphragms. Its passed all tests. I even just pulled everything apart to recheck.
Valves are in spec. Timing is on the dot.
Checked primary and secondary coils.
Checked gas cap, Checked pickup.
Checked battery. Checked all connections for corrosion . checked for vacuum leaks all around and there is none .
What's left? CDI or whatever its called for these bikes.?
And will be adding new plugs.

 

what happens if you are not sitting?

check the charging system output

 

So when the carbs were rebuilt, every rubber piece was replaced? The float valve needle oring and the throttle shaft seals?

 

Yes

 

Deluxe carb kit from chacle

 

This one's way out there... but running out of options.

Stuck rear brake? Does it roll OK in neutral?

And in the "It starts hard" department... when you start it cold, feel the first elbow in all exhaust headers and see which ones get warm first and which stay cold. When I was doing my floats they would seem fine on the bench, then on the bike I could tell which ones were out of adjustment that way....

 

The guts to my caps. Wires are in spec.
Didn't test caps yet. id say there original.

 

Can I swap my plug caps to ngk resistor caps.

 

you can use a combo of resistor plugs and caps to get where you need to be.

xj4ever has the caps and a good write up on it in his catalog.

in this thread you will find your specd
The Ultimate Relay, Switch, Sensor, and Diodes Guide

Spark plug caps:
15K +/- 20% = 12,000 to 18,000 ohms per cap acceptable range

Spark plugs:
5K ohms per plug

 

Well thanks for all the input guys. Everything I do or try get me no where. And I'm not sending it to mechanic cause god know how much that'll cost.
I appreciate all them help. Bikes gonna be a dust collector now.
I'm out.

 

Joe 34,

Just read your thread, wow you are so close and persistent! If I were you I would step away from the bike for a bit. Get into one of your other bobbies for a bit and them come back to the bike. Working on a bike when you are frustrated will cause problems and is just not fun. Main reason most of us have the bikes if for fun of wrenching and riding, keep it that way.

Looks like you have done everything right and are so close to getting the bike running the way you want to. When you are reading to get back to the bike and feel good about walking up to her without throwing something at it, try the 1/4 turn of the mixture screws. Turn them in 1/4 and go for a ride, doing this should cause a different feeling in the RPM range and you can adjust by that feeling.

The plugs do look like you are running a bit rich, so if there are no air leaks, carbs went to Church and all "O" rings replaced, sysn done and or colortuned, you have to be very close.

Tell you what, if you want to see some progress on the bike but not mess with the fuel system, take the time to go through all the electrical connections. Unhook the batter first and then start to take all the connectors apart one at a time, clean them, check for cracking and or broken wires and then add a little dielectric grease to them. This might give you a little sense of accomplishment working on the bike and get you ready to look at that RPM and fuel issues again.

Bottom line, keep with it, you are doing great and have come so far.

 

Does that mean your measuring the float heights? Dry set... Have you done a wet set on the fuel levels?

 

Done all that

 

Dry set the wet set done. Twice.

 

Update. Oil is milky .Alot of white sludge up around clutch parts . And in eye of oil window .
Read 2 thing it could be. Condinsation which i dont think wpuld get that much sludge or head gaskit.
Hmmmm

 

Pic inside clutch

 

Looks like there's an increased likelihood that you have coolant entering into your engine.

I had recently performed a clutch friction plate replacement on my XJ550 and wiped out the crank case ventilation passageways. They were just barely milky and with the condition of my bike overall - very doubtful they had ever been touched. <--attempting to convey that its probably not PCV related.

Will recommend a cylinder compression/leak-down test once more. After all of your efforts so far, a head gasket should be a breeze. You got this!

 

Havnt done comoression/leak down yet but its on the list to try.

 

If the head it leaking then you should be able to top off the radiator. Put the bike on center stand, leave radiator cap off and turn the bike over. If you see air bubbles coming up then it is a good chance you have a leak. I know that when I was working on my X, I pulled the head and found that 1 & 2 had small leaks going on. I honed and put in new rings while I was there and checked replaced the valve guides.

Another "Airhead" way is to remove the coolant and then try to start the motor. If she starts and no smoke, then you know that it likely you have a issue. Compression test and or leak down test should be done too.

Bottom line, I would mentally get ready to pull the head off and do it right. My X sure was a nice running bike once I completed the hone, rings and gasket.

 

Chocolate milk = water for sure

 

I wouldn't want to start my motor with the oil situation Joe described.

 

Took it for a ride again. 3 plugs sre alittle dark. One plug looks brand new still Not wet or anything.

 

You will have to ride it for a while to get a good plug test, IMHO. You don't have white smile or smoke smell a little sweet? That would be a sign of coolant being burned. As for the one plug not being wet...I would pull the connectors from the back of the carbs to the air box. With it running, I would hold my hand over that carbs air inlet area and see if you hear the bike start to rev a little more. I know you have taken them to church and been going nuts with them, but the plugs are saying there is no fuel there. Putting your hand on the back of the carb will force it to over choke and that way you can see if you are pulling fuel from the bowl.

If there is no fuel burning in the cylinder, the exhaust pipe will also be cooler then the others. Be careful checking that with your hand use a laser temp reader if you can. But that will tell if fuel is getting in there and you are firing as well.

 

pressure test the radiator that will tell you if you have a coolent system leak

 

maybe that one cylinder is running good maybe a little lean

 

So here's what the compression test told me.
#1 90psi then jumped up to over 100psi with drops of oil.
#2 is around 130
#3 is around 100
#4 90 but jumps up over 100 with drops of oil.
The bike does not burn a drop of oil.
And I cannot get access to a leak test.

 

you could have stuck rings or worn out rings in 3 cylinders.
problem here is that if you have a coolent system leak it would also show low compression.

you may have to go to a bike shop for the coolant leak test.

 

If I had a ring issue wodnt it smoke or burn oil.
Bike does not burn oil or smoke.

 

I also Aprently didn't hold throttle wide open with test .

 

is any oil showing up in coolant this does sound like a coolant system issue

 

No .But seems like every time I take the cap off its down alittle. But oil lv isn't going up. And I'm not leaking it anywhere else .

 

With numbers like that, I would certainly heed the advice of @XJ550H with coolant pressure testing. Might the "brand new" spark plug be number 4? Steam cleaned spark plug perhaps? You are getting closer to the core issue(s)!

 

Adjust pilot jet .Its running tan now .

 

I'd still do a cooant leak test. A gasket failure won't necessary result in coolant and oil mixing.

 

I'm a marine engineer and I've run a lot of diesels and gas engines although my bike is my first one of these.

From your earlier post:

And all I can tell you is I FIRMLY believe you have a coolant leak into your oil. Oil won't show up in your coolant if the leak is in an area where the coolant pressure is higher than the oil side, pretty much everywhere except the head gasket or a cracked cylinder liner. Everywhere else, the coolant flows to the oil. (Exception may be the oil cooler if this bike has one)

The milky appearance is an emulsion of oil and water, and any oil that does get in the combustion space, the water steams off... thus why your oil level is not rising. The milky / foaming can happen with a small amount of water. And it may be a small enough flow that you don't see any steam out the exhaust.

This can corrode the rings and make them stick as you are seeing. It also reduces the viscosity of your oil and continued use will wear ring sides faster and wear down all the shaft bearings in your engine.

Don't know how to do it on a motorcycle, but on a larger engine... drain coolant and disconnect water pump drive (Or remove impeller? this is to protect the water pump bearings/seals that are lubricated by the water), change oil a couple times and run briefly (From cold, don't let the head get hot without cooling or crack time) each time to clean out the milky stuff. Some guys even add a little diesel to make it cut the water better. If you leave the water fill open, you might see a little exhaust out the fill if the leak connects to combustion space. Then fill coolant system back up to very top and pressurize somehow. With valve cover removed and oil pan (I know, not do-able on the bike... maybe a borescope through the drain hole?) and plugs, inspect for where a small leak may be coming from. If it's in the cylinder it will drip between the piston skirt and liner.

Either way, it will confirm whether it's a head gasket, bottom gasket, or a much larger cracked casting issue.

 

Coolant leak test is next.
Did another compression test, Aprently I was to have it at operating temp.
So 1 and 2 I can get 120psi
And 3 and for only to 100psi.

 

Would the compression be low on all cylinders though if its the head gasket .??

 

It depends on what happened. If an engine overheats significantly, or the head is not torqued down properly, it can warp the head along the entire length, and thus you could end up with one "side" of the head warped differently than the other side.

But typically, low compression across the board is indicative of other issues (rings, valves, old age).

 

Head has never been off. So not to sure what to do. Sounds expensive ither way .

 

Gonna be parting out soon.

Ps. Carbs have fresh rebuild.

 

Aw man, don't part out a passed down bike. You're so close to getting it going properly once more!

 

Na man I'm done.