just got a maxim 550

So I picked the bike up for 150$, no title so far . no tank/seat an broke headlight glass. Guy said it was started about 6 months ago and sat for 5 or 6 years before that. So Im thinking clean the car and check all the fluids and brakes and try to get it started when I can. My plan is to make it a cafe racer to sit along side my cbr600rr.

 

Start with the information overload hour. Make it safe first, then customize/modify as you see fit and if at all possible avoid pods. The church of clean is the only way to go with the carbs

 

Read This First

 

Oh I def plan on making it safe before anything else an making sure it runs right before throw a leg over. The front brake seems stuck so I'm going to check the fluid on that too haha. Anyone ever don't the Vermont method for a new title?

Anyone recommend a good carb rebuild kit and engine gasket kit?

 

There is a link in the top right corner of this page to xj4ever. The parts will be right the first time.
Also, there's a thread about the Vermont title process somewhere...

http://xjbikes.com/forums/threads/m...g-the-82-xj650-bought-without-a-title.117725/

Or
https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&sour...FjAAegQIBhAB&usg=AOvVaw2A3lmT-tN7P49DJDy8BRFR

 

Good chance the piston is seized on front brake . Pull Caliper remove brake line try compressed air to try to push piston out by using a nozzle where brake line attaches . or if that does not work a grease gun threaded in the same mount and pump it full of grease till piston comes free. You will have to clean it out but replace the internal seal and dust seal. What ever you do ..DO NOT use a pair of hogs to try to remove piston it will chew it up with deep gouges effecting sealing . There is a good chance most bikes calipers have never been rebuilt so the seals are usually rock hard and pistons can corrode . Seal kits are cheap. Also you should replace the rubber hoses with braided steel lines XJ4ever has them, look at your lines if the have an 81,82 etc date on them REPLACE you will be on borrowed time.

 

Believe I figured out why the brake didn't release...

 

Gonna upload stuff to keep track of it on here like the fuse box has broken tabs

 

Cracked boots

 

I did the VT reg loophole. There is a well know article that says you need to notarize the bill of sale. That is incorrect. Let me know if you have any questions on the process.

 

Thanks dude I saw there's a site with an all black background that says u don't need it notorized as well

 

I think you may be talking about this site with the black background.
http://www.chinonthetank.com/2014/04/get-a-title-with-a-vermont-registration/

It says you need to have the bill of sale notarized but VT registry does not require it. Really good site tho.

 

Carb pics ,opinions? Looks clean ..

 

Did not know the pictures would be this big when I uploaded them from my phone!

 

Replace fuse block with a blade type fuse block .keeps wiring neat and keeps it looking like rednecks dream .

 

I should have added your boots are not in real good shape. But you could smear them with fuel resistance RTV or an inner tube that is slightly smaller diameter cut to length and stretched over boot . Be cautious of the NEW boots on ebay they have been known to collapse internally . Another item be careful removing the boots the Allen bolts have been known to snap off and can be a bear to remove. If you get them out ok make sure you use anti seize on threads of new bolts do not re use as insurance they are not expensive read ACE hardware or Sears hardare store carry a nice selection of metric fasteers.

 

Looks like someone stuffed muffin crumbs in the master cylinder!

 

I figured with all the screws etc I'm gonna take it slow so I don't snap anything , I hope

 

Yea it's really odd, not sure if I'll be able to get it all out of there or if I should just find another one

 

Anyone know if carb cleaner will eat away the floats? Im gonna tear the carbs to clean them soon and curious

 

You need to do a full tear down of carb to bare body ...floats ,needle & Seat ,all jets , butterfly plate and throttle shaft removed , ALL rubber seals removed ...all of this entails "breaking the rack" each carb body after full tear down can the be soaked usually at least 1 hour per carb , followed by washing in hot soapy water and fully dried then you can reassemble carbs. Spray carb cleaner will not get into the tiny internal passages of carb ..especially if carb is really gummed up .

 

I also believe (but may be mistaken), that carb cleaner/soaking may destroy the "ancient" shaft seals (and perhaps other small rubber bits inside). If the carbs are plugged/non functional, a full tear down, rebuild is in order.

 

your going to rebuild it so just drop it in a gallon of carb dip then use a strand of copper wire from a length of stranded wire to clean out the little holes in the well

 

I already planned on doing a full tear down of the carbs I was just curious if i could spray the floats and clean them. I wasn't gonna just spray cleaner in there and stick it back on the bike haha I started taking out the diaphragms last night

 

Cool I'll try that an see how it goes, when it gets warmer out anyway

 

3 outta 4 floats we're stuck an didn't move, the smaller Jets seem to be in here real tight I might spray something in there to try an break them free but what works!

 

Has anyone had luck using an ultrasonic cleaner, and what liquid to use. I'll be taking mine off soon and am dreading what I may find. When I put the bike away I couldn't drain the carbs as the drain screws were stuck.

 

Kroil is good for stuck parts. carb dip for soaking bodies start with spray cleaner to loosen the floats.
ultra sonic cleaners work great

fyi that brass tube does not remove but needs to be cleaned out

 

Oooo. OEM brake fluid, aged to perfection.

 

Remember, brake flud should be changed every 2 years whether the bike is used or not.

 

Tapioca in a master cylinder? I've not seen that mod before.

 

I just did mine in heated, distilled water. They were first soaked in carb cleaner, then into the ultrasonic.

 

that way when you add more it does not spill onto your gas tank and ruin the paint

 

What brass tube? Are you talking about the emulsion stube? they pop out after you remove the jet, or are you talking about the skinny brass tube thats got a pin hole in the end? Can I spray carb cleaner into the smaller jet because 2 of them are really suck. And I need a way to push the pins out so I can remove the floats!

 

The skinny tubes are best left alone, but take care not to damage them. Also, I had to use heat to shift the float pivot pins, high watage soldering iron did the trick.
Numerous screws needed a tap with a punch.

 

tube with red arrow does not remove you need to use a guitar string to clear it. high e string or there are tiny brushes you can buy. you need the proper fit screw drivers to remove the removable jets NOT ALL JETS ARE REMOVABLE.
you can remove the pilot air jet on the top of the carb the main jet and emulsion tube under it( large jet closest to float hindge) and pilot jet just infront of main jet. thats it.

those jets in the rear throat of carb do not come out

Cleaning your Mikuni carbs

check your inbox for carb book with tips

 

float pin removal
keep spraying and soaking pin hindge before trying to remove it

 

cool thanks for th ereplies now i just need to figure out how to get the 2 stuck smaller jets out! the slot looks kinda messed up on them, I got 2 out just fine I dont think my screw driver will do the job , what does everyone else do to get stcuk messed up jets out? is the metal soft enough that I can just tap my screwdriver into the jet til it bites?

 

Well I used my plumbers blowlamp - it has a very accurate pointy blue flame, but I don't especially recomend it unless you know what your doing. An electric heat gun might be better.

 

soak it with kroil if the slots are messed up
i ground down the sides of a screwdriver to get it to fit down the hole and ground down the end to nake a good fit into the slot of the jet.

if you have to you can use a #1 screw extractor (no drilling required) use a tee handle to remove jet but keep soaking it in kroil untill you remove it. or you can pay a machine shop to extract it.
keep in mind spare carb bodies run 20 to 30 dollars if you snap off the extractor.
this is the wrong time of year to buy motorcycle parts on ebay as the prices climb the closer to spring you get.

 

Well I don't have kroio but got some PB an let it soak and used the 98cent screwdriver that fits perfectly into the slot btw,from Lowe's, an put pressure on it an cracked it loose! Gonna need a new jet tho how much are they haha

 

not much but do not buy the ones with holes in the sides

chacal sells them (len from www.xj4ever.com) start a conversation with him for a quote. he has throttle shaft seals too and any other part for carbs

 

so this is everything I've removed from the carbs, wasn't sure about the plunger with rubber grommet? The butterfly valves work and move perfect so I think it's pointless to remove them they move and spring back like new

 

To replace butterfly seals you have to remove plate and slide shaft out a MUST do Item if you have broke the rack and ALL rubber seals need removed and carbs soaked in carb cleaner for at least 1 hour per carb , this is the true church of clean .....spray carb cleaner will not get into small passages of the carb to properly clean out gum and varnish deposits. Note xj4ever sells the proper shaft seals , you won't find these on eBay , or 2 #11 Buna O rings can be used .

 

You need to remove them to replace the seals that are in there or you will end up doing it all over again because of vacuum leaks

 

the screws are peened on the butterflys so they need to be filed down for removal. the plungers just unscrew with a socket

 

Dont see anything in the clymer book about removing the butterfly shafts etc

 

thats because the standard practice was to sell you a new set of carbs. peened screws need a special tool to peen them . throttle shaft seals require the shafts to be removed to replace the 35 year old seals.

 

I have a dremel I could removed the peened ends with, gonna look up the seals an see where they are i guess haha thanks