82 XJ750 Rebuilt Carburetor leaking gas.

So I rebuilt my carbs, even replaced throttle shaft seals. I’ve taken them on and off the bike several times during rebuild. Prior to rebuild there was gas leaking from cyl 4 carb where air filter goes. I’ve left my manual petcock on “RES” overnight and no leaking up until now. Now suddenly today I go out and there is a small puddle of gas on the ground coming from cyl 4 carb where air filter goes so I turned off my petcock. I’ve replaced the float needle when rebuilding, so I’m not sure why the float is getting stuck. Any suggestions?

 

You will need to pull carbs back off remove float bowls , pull float pin and the float check the needle tip make sure it is not grooved or stiff . You can take a Q tip and metal polish chuck Q tip in drill put polish on Q tip and insert into seat a quick hit of the trigger will clean up seat making it shiny . Even if you put in new needle and seat sometimes this little trick will help it from seeping.

 

did you wet set carbs?

 

Very important, not only does it demonstrate float bowl fuel level but it's also a leak test prior to mounting them in the bike.

 

Corey,
Save your self some time and do a off bike mount and get the floats wet tested. Most of us use PCV pipes lined up as the boots and get them level and plum and then do the wet test. Testing all things off the bike to see if it leaks or if the floats are set right. I pulled mine six times before I go them right, so if you can and have the time, do a off bike mock up of your carbs.

 

or if you have a work bench with vise even better.

 

a lot of times when the needle valve leaks it goes the other way, down the intake valve or yics port. are you sure the float bowl gasket is good.

 

I had just changed the oil and it's obvious that some gas went into the crank case as my oil level went up .... time to change it again.

Thanks for all your suggestions. I'll need to follow this article I suppose.
http://www.xj4ever.com/setting fuel levels.pdf

Man, rebuilding the carbs has become a real expense! I swear I've spent over $200 now.

 

It takes a substantial amount of coin to make these old bikes safe and reliable. Once everything is done you still got a great ride for a great price.

 

I wish I had only spent $200 on my build
The new intake manifold boots alone cost me $400.

 

Ha...400 here

 

I end up putting about $800 in the bikes I buy , sometimes more sometimes less
carb rebuild
brake system rebuild
tires
shims
donuts and gaskets
airfilter, oil change and filter
missing parts
Paint
fork rebuild alone is 100$
tools
you end up with a safe reliable bike and a big grin on your face.
I stalk ebay for best prices on used parts late fall early winter is the best time to buy parts you may need.
I do side work to make extra money. then there is the cost of jewelry for the wife.....
then there is this
TECH TOPIC: The Real Costs of Maintenance

 

Ya know, it's interesting. When I first bought my Seca in 2001, it was CHEAP ($300) because it was a non-runner from a friend. Maybe that's why most of us buy these models. They are a great "entry-level" vintage sport bike for the money. But like several of you have said, "the real cost of maintenance" means you can't just spend a fraction of your purchase price to get your bike where it needs to be. Your life is worth more than that, even if you don't have a lot of cash to work with initially.

Now, some of us have gone over the top, myself included. I've semi-restored mine -- twice (long story) -- and now I baby it like it's a collectible classic. I was going through my receipts folder a couple days ago (big mistake), and I'd venture a guess that I could have probably bought a new full-dress Harley or a Gold Wing for what I've spent on my Seca over the years I've owned it. But what a fun journey I've had wrenching and improving it, and I always get compliments. Makes me glad I didn't give up on it, and doom it to an early grave.

 

Agree. You get what you pay for. You put more into it with good quality parts, and you’ll get more out of it. Especially when it comes to the safety aspect, saving a few dollars when your life is at stake is not worth it.

 

Buy the best cry once ..let that sink in... best motto I have ever lived by.

 

Wow. I spent $500 just getting new tires put on my bike! $200 labor, $250 tires, $50 in taxes and disposal fees. I've ordered all the parts I need to get these fuel levels right, just waiting patiently

 

200$ to do tires did you have them remove them from the bike? I pay the shop 15 to 20 $ to mount and balance my tires , I buy my tires on line for the best prices.
that extra labor cash buys quite a few parts.

 

Yes I had them remove the tires from the bike.

 

$500 seems high for tires. Pulling the wheels is not a big ordeal. You bring your wheels and new skins in to them and you'll save some coin.

Here in NY, it's still $50 per wheel for mounting (which in my opinion is too much) if you take the wheels off yourself... But it is the going rate apparently because I've checked several shops. If you give them cash, you'll also save the tax and disposal fees...

 

i guess changing your own tires is a lost art.......who fixed your bicycle flats?

 

It's like comparing apples and, well... Larger apples!

Though I've years of experience changing tires and patching bicycle tubes, honestly, I haven't tried to do the job myself for the XJ. When the UPS man delivered the first one to my front door, I found that Michelin motorcycle tire to be quite impressive. Thick walled and extremely rigid. It's no wonder so many people ride around on under inflated tires because it's so hard to know visually... unlike a car tire. The darn thing looks full, even when it's not on the rim!

I still pull the wheels and bring the tires and rims in without the bike (of course). I'd like to think the money is well spent on paying the man with the machine, tools and experience to do the job efficiently and without marring the finish of the ol'girls wheels. I'll attempt everything else.

 

True. You get what you pay for. Somethings you just have to play others to do. I paid someone to rebuild forks for my rebuild. I did everything else except welding and powder coating.

 

It is not the mounting, it is the balancing I worried about.....money well spent at $25 a tire at cycle gear to get them mounted and balanced.......

 

I think the harder part is getting the old tire off. I’ve never had much problem getting the new one on—but I think I might try the gorilla tape next time just to see how well it works. Balancing is the easy part. I bought a motorcycle wheel balancer—can’t remember where, maybe Harbor Freight— and some stick on weights an got them balanced quickly and easily.

 

I could do everything down to balancing and putting on my own tires, but then I wouldn't have time to ride or enjoy my other hobbies. I'd just rather not fight with removing old tires and screwing something up as well. Yes I did do my own bicycle tires, but this isn't a bicycle....

Back on topic - So what size is the HCP1592 tubing that they show fits on the nipple where you drain the gas? I need to buy some at my local hardware store as all the other things I needed came in.

 

I want to say it’s just 1/4 interior diameter tubing. That’s what I’ve been using for measuring my float levels.

 

Thank you! I'll pick some up during my lunch break.

 

Turns out it’s bigger than 1/4” Poly tubing. Will try next size up when I can get back to the hardware store.

 

Just an update. 1/4” inner diameter from another store worked. Guess that first hardware store gave me the wrong thing