Oh No..another question about bars

As much as I like the look of my 81 Maxim, I'm having a bit of difficulty with the buckhorns. They don't seem as comfortable with me as far as proper control of the bike. Kind of difficult to describe. Regardless, I'm wondering if something a tad flatter would be better suited. I've read numerous posts here about changing bars but haven't found the answer I'm looking for. I don't want to make a lot of changes to accommodate the change if I don't have to. (tank clearance at full lock, control cables..etc) I truly believe in the KISS method and it's served me well through life. I see that the XJ550 may be more suitable (flatter) but I don't know if they are a direct replacement or not. I also believe the 82 xj650 might be a bit flatter as well. Being a bit of a purist, bars from another classic Yamaha model would be great

 

Not sure about the 550 bars but I can say that the stock bars on my 82 650 are basically identical to the stock bars on the gf's 81 650, other than the 82 bars being bent which i didn't realize until I removed them for a set which I modified.

 

Daytona bars and EMGO Classic bars are a direct swap as far as wires and cables go. Anything other then the stock buckhorns will reqiire a diifferent master cylinder be used due to the angle change of the bars, which causes the master cylinder to not be able to reliably pump fluid at all times.

All 650 Maxim 7/8" tubular bars are the same as what you have now, so far as I can tell.

 

OK. I did find Len's bar specs on the different years and models. Looked at the Emgo products and found one that may do. They are inexpensive enough that I'm just going to order and see how the fitment goes. If it looks like a winner, I'll look into the master cylinder replacement.

 

https://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/handlebar-swap-ditching-the-horns.94195/

This might help you.

 

I saw this some weeks back before I was considering a bar change. Thanks for the reminder. It certainly answers many questions.

 

One note, and I should update that post but you need to find a master cylinder that is 14mm bore or dang close. The 650 Turbo MC that I used was 5/8" bore. While it bolted up fine and looked great, the larger MC piston moves more volume so you end up with less force on the pads. The larger MC bore lowers the mechanical advantage of the system and I ended up with a really stiff lever that required quite a bit of force to brake. I'm not an engineer but I read up on this for awhile, I believe you figure the MA by dividing the caliper piston diameter by the master piston diameter so stock would be 42.8/14 = 3.05 and my setup was 42.8/15.87 = 2.84. Roughly 7% change which doesn't sound like much but it was noticeable. Proof came when I slapped my old 14mm MC back on and I had better braking.

Had I done the two caliper upgrade it probably would've worked out but I would need to find out the diameter of those caliper pistons.

 

I'll take your word for it . If you had done the two caliper upgrade, what forks would you have used to accommodate the second caliper and rotor??

 

AFAIK the 750 Max front end works, there may be others but I haven't looked into it much. Considering it when I do my rebuild but I have a lot to do already.

 

650 seca bars and levers,cables and all aren't a bad fit?

 

That was the common swap back when it was possible to find those parts easily. The master cylinder is the correct size and mounting angle for flatter bars, and there are aftermarket master cylinders available for that model if you can't find an OEM one.

 

@Bluegray,

If you don't end up liking the flatter bars (I tried the Emgo Daytona bars and didn't care for them - felt too hunched over - although I am 6'-5"), I would highly recommend the TC Bros Lanesplitter mini apes. They put your hands a little higher, and a little flatter than the buckhorns. I was able to install them with all the stock cables. I find them to be very comfortable and give good control (and they look good IMO)

One other issue you might find with switching bars is the location of your mirrors. The OEM master cylinder and clutch lever take the pull back of the buckhorn bars into account, therefore when you install flatter bars, your mirrors end up in the middle of the bike, and all you will be able to see is your chest. I got around this by purchasing aftermarket mirrors with an adjustable pivot (a bunch of brands make them, I got BikeMaster old school tube mirrors) so I could compensate for the OEM perches.

@k-moe,

I have used the OEM master cylinder with flatter mini apes on my 83 650 Maxim for the past couple years with no issue. The reservoir is on a bit of an angle. I know it's not ideal, but is it a serious safety hazard? I have thought about picking up an aftermarket set (with clutch lever). Any suggestions for an aftermarket set? Like everything, they range in price from $20 $500+. I would like them to accept mirrors and wiring too (some do not...)

 

I did the same 83max. Still using a master cylinder designed for the buckhorns or more angled bars on my flatter ones. I can see where the safety issue would come into play if it were able to suck any air into port holes. I just keep mine full as absolutely possible. Yes it takes a bit of doing, leaning the bike and whatnot so that the master is level to open the lid but if it is full it can't get any air down by the ports. I'm definitely not saying it's right but it's working for now

 

The clutch lever on mine is useless, cable pointing totally the wrong way - didn't get a brake master cylinder, got a kawasaki 500 one on there right now