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In need of guidance! Xj650

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Journeym4n, Sep 26, 2018.

  1. JBIII

    JBIII New Member

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    As near as I can tell they are both the same. I looked up both 81 & 83 both had the same
    P/N 4H7-14401-00-00 AIR CLNR CASE ASSEMBLY.

    Found an 81 on eBay item number: 273475581795
     
  2. Journeym4n

    Journeym4n New Member

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    Any idea what these are for?
     

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  3. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    From top to bottom

    Emulsion tube
    pilot screw ( Idle mixture screw )
    Fuel Bowl drain screw......
     
  4. joejr2

    joejr2 Active Member Premium Member

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    Be careful of those Chinese/Taiwanese carb repair kits off eBay. The jets, accelerator needles, emulsion tubes, may be out of spec.
    Also, the jets might be the wrong size for the model type indicated on the package. I found the gasket, float needle and seat, drain screw, mixture screw, and the springs were good. But, the other parts were unreliable. I put a rebuilt set of carbs with these parts
    into a 750 seca and it ran like crap. I switched the parts in question with the original ones, cleaned up. The bike ran like a top.
     
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  5. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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  6. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    You can never go wrong with parts from XJ4Ever......alias chacal.......use him......you will get reliable OEM & aftermarket parts from him.......

    Icon in upper right hand corner.....
     
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  7. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    The jet needle is Y-10.

    Gary H.
     
  8. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    That is correct for a U.S. 650. I was looking at my chart wrong. I gave the spec for a U.K. 650 jet needle.
    Thanks for the correction.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2018
  9. rocs82650

    rocs82650 Well-Known Member

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    +1.

    Gary H.
     
  10. Journeym4n

    Journeym4n New Member

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    Hey guys it's running pretty well, still some pops and hesitation. I was wondering if the petcock leaking can cause any issues. Its a pretty steady drip from the main line of the petcock. I have a brand new gravity petcock should I install it?
     
  11. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    I would install......dripping gasoline onto a hot motor isnt the best situation.......I prefer the vacuum petcocks that originally come with the bikes.......chacal sells rebuild kits for yours.....

    Never been a fan a gravity petcocks......one has to turn them on & off all the time.....PITA
     
  12. Journeym4n

    Journeym4n New Member

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    It's not actually dripping onto the motor but into the fuel line itself. Like if I remove the fuel line from the main on the petcock it will steadily drip from the petcock. With the fuel line attached its just dripping into the carbs.
     
  13. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Rebuild it. If a float needle sticks, or fails to seal, that tankfull of gas you store it with will drain into the crankcase over the winter.
     
  14. fiveofakind

    fiveofakind Well-Known Member

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    +1 on the above......buy the rebuild kit from Chacal.......you cant go wrong.....
     
  15. Journeym4n

    Journeym4n New Member

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    Okay I need some help. I looked all over and no one else has asked about this. I need help removing the front wheel. So far I have removed this bolt:(1st pic)


    Not sure where to go from here.
     

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  16. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Before you removed the fork pinch bolt in the 1st picture you should have removed the split pin from the castilated nut (if fitted) then slackened the castilated nut shown in the third picture. Then remove the pinch bolt. Then remove the speedometer cable behind the castilated nut and below the caliper. You should be able to put a bar through the hole in the spindle and pull it out once the nut is removed. Watch where the spacer fits and the speedometer drive unit lug has to engage with the fork leg on reassembly, as do the two tangs on the plate engage with the slots in the wheel hub. You will need some support under the bike (not under the exhaust collector) as the bike will topple forward with the weight of the engine unit when the wheel is removed. And don't press the brake lever when you take the wheel out or you will not be able to get the rotors back in when you replace the wheel. It can be tricky getting the rotors back in anyway.
     
  17. Journeym4n

    Journeym4n New Member

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    Ok pin and nut are out. How do I remove the Speedo cable? And just so we're clear, the calipers stay on? Ty
     

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  18. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    The calipers do stay on.

    The speedometer cable is attached to the speedometer drive, and does not absolutely need to be removed since the speedo drive is not part of the wheel.
    If you want to remove it, it is held in place by a hex bolt (10mm head) underneath the drive. Remove the bolt, then pull the cable to the rear.

    I suggest that you get a copy of either the Hyanes or the Clymer shop manuals so you don't have to wait on us to answer questions about the procedures that are ccovered in the manuals.
     
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  19. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Calipers stay on yes. The speedo cable has a knurled fitting on it where it enters the speedometer housing behind the fork leg. Turn the fitting towards you and once it is off the speedo cable will pull out of the housing.
     
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  20. k-moe

    k-moe Pie, Bacon, Bourbon. Moderator Premium Member

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    Franz and I are working on the cable from opposite ends. :)
     

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