Rick, others, comments on this

Looked inside the manifolds, and the left and right ones both have a small flap of rubber that has peeled away from the rest of it. No holes through them, but I need to some how repair, replace these. Sugestions?
Should I jump right in and spend $144 and replace them? (I don't have it, and the bike will get pushed back out of the garage)
Peel the piece off, so it's not in the flow, and hope it's ok?
Leave it alone and get the rest of the bike fixed up cause I have a long road ahead, and I saw the pictures in your other post?

 

Your manifolds are delaminating from the aluminum boss/flange. Time for new ones!

 

These are the bolts that usually strip/brake off when trying to remove them?
The bike also sat outside for an unknown number of years, This should be fun.

 

I know a guy who practically built a section of Manifold with J-B or Liquid Nails ... I forget which ... I think he had peeling-off and did the Liquid Nails.

THOSE are the infamous "Soft as Butter" Cap Screws used to hold the Manifolds on.

Don't put "Steady" pressure on those Cap Screws trying to remove them.
Get an Allen-Bit Socket and a Craftsman Ratchet.
Pre-Load some undo torque on the fastener and give the Ratchet Handle a swat with a Hammer Handle.
Impact them and see if they will come loose ... (refrained from saying "Break-loose") ...
I'd be careful trying to get them off.
If they do come loose and "Start to move" ... I'd still withdraw them with intermittent impact rather than putting steady pressure on them.

Good luck.
I wouldn't want to be in your shoes.
My luck getting those bad-boyz oudda there is "Oh fer three"

 

Thanks Guys.
I think I will keep cleaning, put the new carbs on and see how it runs.
I was just out there vacuuming out all the leaves and nut caught in everything.
Who knows, maybe one day Rick will walk outside and find a silver parts bike parked in front of his house. :lol:

 

I snapped a head bolt off in a boat motor. Bad day.
I cut the head off a bolt, welded the shank square, grind the slag,
I got 1 stud. didn't even try to remove it. It held 30 LBS of torque.
and that was with a buzz box welder.

same principle could be applied to snapped off bolts on XJ's...
so now I snapped off that little bolt on the swingarm. My new tires
are itching for asphalt! can I just Vice Grip it?

 

The rubber, on a couple of the manifolds of the XJ750 that I used to own started coming off. I used a short piece of rubber hose to fix it. Just clamped the host to he metal piece of the manifold and clamped it to the carb. It worked great. I had very little money back then and didn't have much of a choice but to improvise on almost everything I did.

 

Rick, Dude! you painted a MIDNIGHT MAXIM purple? ! ? !

 

Not only painted it purple ... De-blacked the whole bike ... grinded-off the gold-colored plating on everything and then POLISHED every square inch of the aluminum ... including outboard carb bodies.

There was no way to save it without doing all I had to do ... but, for hauling away somebody's cast-off with 10,000 miles on it ... I have already put over 8,000 miles on it in just 2 seasons on-the-road.

It is officially the MOST Fine-tuned machine I have ever owned.
I play with it to experiment with the tuning.
I have it so I can change the tuning from performance to cruiser with a little tweak of the Pilot Screws.

I did a 580 Mile Summer Ride in a day and a half.
If I ever put a wrench on anything ... my Max is the Number 1 Favorite bike of all time ... and there's a perfect Seca-900 Parked right next to it!

 

I'm painting my 82 XJ1100 purple as well!
Purple is cool!

 

A little trick I learned from years of carb. rebuilding. If you are useing a allen socket before you put the rachet on give the socket a good firm tap (socket in the screw of course) with a hammer. This will help un-cease the screw.

 

And a tiny squirt of AeroKroil won't hurt either....

 

Yea. It won't hurt. But if they have been in there 25-years ... undisturbed ... it's an adventure getting them out.

They either come loose and there's no problem ... or, ...
Don't ...

Which is a Major Problem in the making!

 

I'm wondering if the wax trick would work on them.
Where you heat the surrounding area and then touch wax to it and let it flow down the threads. Like soldering, but using wax instead of lead/tin

 

Solder Flux would work.

The problem is inn the application of the heat.
To get the Cap Screw hot enough you risk permanent damage to the Manifold.

One trick I use as a "Last Resort" ... is:

Using a Dremel Cut-off Wafer ... remove the two Cap Screw Heads and slide the Manifold off the remaining "Headless Studs"

Using a very small diameter Number Drill ... Drill into the Head on a Bias at the point where the Bolt is threaded into the Head.
NOW ... you can Heat the Bolt to a temperature hot enough to get Flux or some other lubricant to penetrate the threads along the line you drilled into the Head exposing some of the threads to the lube.

The penetrating lube will allow you to grab onto the stud and use Vice Grips or a Stud Removal (preferred) tool to extract it without breaking it off.

Think of it as giving the Head a shot of Novicane before "Pulling the tooth"

 

Just another suggestion for dealing with bolts that don't want to come off easy.
As Rick said, most of these stuck fasteners like sharp jolts more than steady pressure.
On mine I use a Makita Impact Driver. Most of the major power tool manufacturers now make electric impacts that are fast replacing drills for many applications. The Makita unit puts out 110 lb/ft of torque and is cordless as well. I have found it to be a great engine disassembly tool as well with lots of power and great ability to break rust without breaking bolts.

http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=produ ... tag=BTD140

or

http://www.makita.com/menu.php?pg=produ ... =TD020DSEW

Then just add adapters to 1/4" - 1/2" drive and go to town!

Best regards, Darryl