Bike won't start after adjusting cam chain

Last night I went for an epic ride on my 81 XJ550 Seca but I couldn't ignore the rattling in my engine. Sounded like a loose cam chain. So today, I did the adjustment as prescribed in the manual and at first the bike started right up. I let it idle for about a minute and decided to go for a ride. I came to the first stop sign and the bike stalled but it fired right up again. I then rode for about a half mile and right when I pulled in the clutch approaching the stop sign the bike stalled again. Now it won't start back up.

I followed the procedure per the manual. I put the engine at TDC matching the "C" line. I then loosened the nut and bolt on the tensioner. I then tightened the nut and bolt back up and it started right up. Sounded great too. Didn't hear any rattling. Now, it just won't start anymore. What happened????

 

Air vent in gas cap clogged?

 

I think the problem is unrelated to your work.

When it died, how did it die?
Did it sputter out, or did it act like you flipped the ignition cutoff switch?

 

It died because I'm an idiot. It ran out of gas. When am I going to learn. Thanks for responding.

 

Sometimes Joshua it is the easy solutions we overlook. Easy done.

 

The KISS principle Keep It Simple Stupid ..we have all been there

 

Every day until you die. That's usually the plan anyway.

 

Out for a test run after getting my 650Seca back together when suddenly I couldn't get it to rev over 5000. After I stopped freaking out, certain the bike was toast, I switched the petcock to prime, got it running, switched the petcock back and got back on the highway.

Ran out of gas again a few hundred feet down the road because I hadn't switched to Res.

 

Brainfarts; everyone has them sometimes.

 

Now that I figured that out I'm curious if there's any additives you could put in the oil for a motorcycle engine. I've ran Gumout through with the gas and I think that did something. I'm just trying to buy a little life out of my engine. Anybody have any ideas?

 

When I'm ready to change the oil, I add in a little Sea Foam, run it a few minutes and then change the oil.

 

Be careful adding things to the oil ,seafoam,marvel mystery oil is safe but you probably should not run for long . The clutch and starter clutch can end up slipping , as long as you use a quality oil and change every 1000 to 1500 miles relax . These engines can run for a long time if maintained .

 

Here is what happened to me k-moe. I was bleeding the brakes on my car and I asked my wife to press the brake pedal. To cut a long story short I could not understand why no fluid was coming out of the bleed valve. Then I checked the pedal, it went straight to the floor as I expected. My wife said that is not the pedal I was pressing, she was pressing the accelerator pedal. And she is a good safe driver. Perhaps I should have explained better lol.

 

Guys, to add to my stupidity I have made yet another colossal mistake. I broke those clamp type things on my engine while trying to take the engine cover off. For some reason I was thinking right loosey lefty tighty. I'm too emotionally worn down at this point but I just ask you to be kind and give me some options of what to do because I have no idea.

 

I think those can be replaced easy enough. It's the ones that are machined surfaces that are the cam bearings basically, that can't be so easily swapped out without additional steps. Just relax, go at a nice steady pace and you'll get there.

 

+1. Those particular cam caps aren't cam caps. They are there to provide a boss for the valve cover to bolt to. Be sure to remove all of the broken aluminum from the head.