question about starter button

Has anyone ever made there own button and contact pin that goes in the switch? I decided to make one last night just for something to do. Only problem I made it out of steel and the ones they sell here are brass with a plastic button. I had the spring still , so would a steel pin work or does it need to be brass? The button is brass , its what I had sitting around in the garage. I plan on ordering one , so its not that big a deal. Just wondering if it would work.

 

as long as you keep the rust away. I think that's why they used the brass alloy there.

 

+1.

Aluminum would be a better choice if you don't have brass barstock handy, but steel will work fine so long as you exercise the button regularly.

 

if your button is brass just build in the contact pin as part of the button.

 

I created a start button out of a thumbtack and some plastic once.
It worked fine for a couple of years.

The bigger issue was that the original start button launched itself when I was out with my girlfriend on our second date when we wanted to go back home.
In the end we found that you can also start the bike by poking the screwdriver of the tool set in the hole left by the start button.

BTW the home made start button has since been replaced by a start button out of a parts bike.

 

btw, if you do have the original or a good replacement metal insert, here is a button that feels and works like the original: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2433409

 

thanks for all the replies , its been a few days until I had time to get back on. I did notice there was a lil rust / corrosion on the cage the button sits in. I cleaned that up , maybe later on today I'll put it back together and see what happens. I did find some brass rods in the garage I could use to remake it. Still want to change the fuse box out with a blade type. You guys use the micro fuses or the regular size. would it be better to use those waterproof inline fuses since the don't have a box that sticks up? I'm glad its winter time and have a few more months to get everything worked out before spring. thanks again for the help.

 

You can use any fuse box you want that fits under seat. Beware some of the blocks out there are higher than will fit. Most important is to make good connections. Solder and heatshrink for example. Chacal xj4ever has a complete kit if you want to make sourcing parts easy.

 

some fuse boxes have one in and several outs, that's not what you want.
get one with a in for each out. separate each circuit

 

Marine or outboard parts suppliers sell a marine grade brass replacement fuse panel that takes the old glass fuses, and is even resistant to salt water.
They usually have a bridge on the power in side but it can be removed for seperate circuits.
Just an option. I put one on an XS850 so it still fit under the seat proper.

 

you can buy an new oem style fuse holder for glass fuses on ebey for 65$

or this one about 30$
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Fuse-B...h=item4b43baf6ea:g:A6sAAOxy4dNS4R~t:rk:1:pf:0

 

I Never thought about checking with a boat / marine shop , that's a good idea. I do like the aftermarket o e m style they sell here on the site. Sometimes it takes me for ever to make up my mind on things that shouldn't . Just need to replace it so may as well upgrade it to the blade style. It sure has been a nice winter so far this year , I have seen quite a few bikes out riding around past few weeks in Cincinnati Ohio .

 

Given a choice between a new original style glass-fuse style and the more modern blade-fuse style fuseboxes (and we sell both, and the oem-style glass box costs a bit more than the modern style), I'd always recommend the modern style, unless you are doing a museum-type restoration project.