Valve clearence XJ700X

I will probably be done with my carbs in the next few days. Now is time to check the valves. I try to have all the parts handy before I start taking stuff apart; what do you suggest to do shim wise? should I try to buy a kit? should I measure and then order specific sizes? which is the most recommended way to do it?
I just don't want to leave my Maxim without a top!

 

The recommended way is to measure then order what you need, or contact hogfiddles for the shim pool. Getting a kit will land you with a lot of shims you don't need, and maybe not enough of what you do. I'd just put the valve cover back on while you're waiting for shims. Get the bolts finger tight and it should be fine.

 

Thanks

 

The MaximX procedure is quite different--- your shims are much smaller, and UNDER the buckets

Start reading:
http://www.xjbikes.com/forums/threads/maxim-x-liquid-cooled-valve-adjusment-with-pics.16298/

 

..and more costly than the other type of shim. All the more reason to not order a kit.

 

Thanks, I read that one already. I'm thinking I am going to take a couple of days off when I get into it. Full concentration! I have to say that I am having a lot of fun.

 

When rotating the crank 180 degrees, what did you line the 'T" up with when measuring cylinder 2?

 

If you are using the standard round feeler gauge you will have a time of it. Use the ones that are rounded but pointed as well. I tried to get good readings with a standard round set and just had a heck of a time of it. As soon as I changed over to the longer round ones it was easy.

 

I have the right feeler gauge, when I rotate the crank 180 degrees to measure clearance of cylinder 2 where do I stop the crank? There isn't any marks as to where to align the "T" at 180 degrees.

 

As long as the cam lobe is pointing away from the measuring point to the furthest point. Once the cam is pointing away from the shim point at 180 you can measure the gap. I don't use the marking on the crank timing mark area. I visually see the cam lobe point away from the shim to take the measurement.

 

^This^
The marks on the reluctor plate are only there for finding TDC on cylinder #1, and setting the cams into position for installing/adjusting the cam chain adjuster.
If you prefer a visual refrence at the crank you will need a degree wheel.

 

Thanks Guys! I have finished my measurements, they are all out of spec. Intake are from .06 -.09 Should be .11-.20 Exhaust ran from .15-.18 Should be .21-.30. Bike has 33,000 miles and I don't think a valve adjustment has ever been done.

 

I will give you a heads up, try to get those shims from a shim pool. Those little buggers are pricey new! Hopefully you can reuse some of them for the IN to the EX or even on the same sides. Write everything down on paper and see it before you do it. That way you get as few as possible and do it once and correct.

Getting those cams back on and in place timed correctly with take a little effort. Well maybe for you it will work just right and you will be like me, I had to walk away from the bike a few times doing my X. Once you get her all back together she will sound so good and run strong!

 

Thanks Timbox! I am a little nervous about the cams! I am going to remove them tonight, I ran out of time last night.

 

Yes doing the Maxim X valve shim check and resetting the clearances to get them in-spec can be tedious.

There's some helpful info that I snipped from HAPs Maxim X website and you can read more at
http://www.maxim-x.com/notes.html#shimpool

He has been gracious to provide a link to an excel chart to use as a guide and says:

The Maxim-X service manual contains detailed instructions and a shim table to help select replacement shims.

I've also created an automated Excel spreadsheet to help with the shim calculations.
You can download the Maxim-X Valve Shim Table spreadsheet here.

Hope that helps.

Tony

 

Yes it does! Thanks Tony! Now I am trying to get the cams out, is it a must to remove the cam sprockets?

 

You might be able to do that by taking just one off, but I always do both.

Tony

 

Okay, I have all my measurements. When it comes to being in spec, is it better to be closer to min or maximum tolerances?

 

In spec is in spec

 

If you need to set up the clearance on an "out of spec" one, look to go near the maximum clearance on the spec.
That way as they wear, and when the clearances get tighter, you'll have a little more buffer before they have no clearance and cause loss of compression and burnt valves.

Tony

 

Thanks Tony! That was my initial thought, to get closer to the max tolerance for that reason but wasn't sure if that was a good thing to do.

 

One other tip: measure the old and new shims with a micrometer, don't assume that the numbers are right.

 

+1 on measuring the shims.

 

Work never ends I have micrometer, but how do measure them? I have to measure from where the valve seats to the top of the shim, correct?

 

we do have members here who have the X.
you may also want to check this site
http://www.maxim-x.com/


this page
http://www.maxim-x.com/notes.html

 

You measure the thickness of the shim, flat to flat.

 

I have the under bucket shims, would I measure them tge same?

 

You will need something like this, but it will have to fit inside the cap to determine the thickens. Still flat to flat but you will have to avoid the cap portion. The pic is just an example of what you can use.

 

That's what I'm having a problem with, micrometer is too big to fit inside of the shim.

 

You can get a small screw or something that will fit into the bottom of it. That screw or what ever you use will be a constant measurement. Use that part to measure all the shims and it should work out. Even a carb float pin or something similar to fit in there. Just use the same thing for each shim.

Hope that helps.

 

yes measure total height for over bucket shims


for the x shims I think you need a spacer like in the photo below or a ball bearing
after seeing the shims on the x web site they are marked just like over bucket shims

 

or like this the spacer shown is like a bolt with shaft cut down (but not a bolt) to insert inside a ball bearing can be used

you could measure a known size and subtract the excess 0r shim thickness to give you the number

 

Awesome guys! Thank you for all your help! As you can probably tell, I have never done something like this. I really appreciate all the help.

 

Brag, brag, brag...

 

@xHondaHack

would be able to give you better info

 

With the micrometer that I have, it required a small screw to get inside the cup, (to sit on the underside of the shim where it rests on top of the valve) and you likely have to do the same to get the proper measurement.

After snugging it down on the screw, that's where I set the "0" setting on the micrometer. Then you'll have the proper measurement on the shim. Some may be a thousandth or two off of the markings, but some markings may have worn off over time as well. You can use a very fine permanent marker in that case so you can mark and organize what you have, then use the chart for the shims you will need.

I know it's a pain to do twice, but I always recheck them after doing the initial swap.

Also, mark down all the shim sizes for each valve position after your done, that way you'll have a reference of what shim is on each one for the next time, or if you sell the bike the next owner will appreciate having that info.

Tony

 

This is exactly what I did and a good thing too! One of my exhaust shims state 195 on it but is actually a 192, would have put me real lost to being out of spec. It was just the one though all other 19 were good