Oil and filters

I'm sorry about starting another oil thread, and I want to keep this one short. I owned an 86 liquid cooled Maxim X which died about three years ago--I used Castrol Semi synthetic in that. I recently purchased a beautiful (I can't believe this bike is sooo clean) Maxim 700 air cooled (pics will be coming soon). I was considering using Mobil one (made for bikes, full synthetic without friction modifiers), but after calling Mobil, their technician said this would be a bad idea because the seals were made for petroleum based oils, and a synthetic would find even a pinhole leak. If their own technicians are saying this, I'll take their word. The bike has 7000 original miles on it, and I live in New Mexico. Hot in the summer which is most of the year, and never dropping below 50 degrees in the winter. Any information about this seals issue, and if using a semi-synthetic or non would be best is appreciated. Also, I've read that the filter can be difficult to remove. Is this a maybe, or on every bike? I never changed the filter on my other Maxim. One more question--I read somewhere on this forum that an inline fuel filter would save problems down the road. Is there anywhere on the forum with instructions on doing this, as in parts needed, etc.? Thanks!

 

Ok, the technician at Mobil stated not to use synthetics because of the age of the bike (and the seal), that the newer and rebuilds were designed for synthetic but the older were not. Everything I've read here shows that people are using them successfully, and the parts guy at the Yamaha dealer said that it was a myth that synthetics WILL cause leaks in older machines. 8O 8O :? I'm just going to try a synthetic, and if it leaks I'll change it. If it works, less engine wear, and if not I'm out some money but I learned something :wink: :idea: Whoever owned this bike before me took unbelievably excellent care of it, leaving me a fine example. I will do the same, and learn much in the process.

 

I don't use synthetic in my bike so I won't comment on that and leave it to those who do. The oil filter can be difficult if the PO has stripped the bolt head or over tightened the bolt. Just use a good six sided socket and remember to lightly but firmly tighten the bolt back down.
The fuel filter is a very easy installation. The filters are available from most bike shops for about $4. Cut the fuel line about an inch from the end of the petcock nipple. The idea being to have enough to insert the whole filter nipple in without hitting the petcock nipple. Then trim some off the other end so the hose doesn't kink with the filter in place. Also make sure the filter and/or hose don't point uphill, which could impair fuel flow.

 

The filter came out easily and I made sure to not over tighten it. Thanks for the info on the fuel line filter--that's next, then the brakes.

 

just run any dino 20w-50 or a diesel 15w-40...either will be PLENTY sufficient.

 

Treat the threads on that Oil Filter Bolt with some AntiSeize Lubricant. You'll be glad you did. Makes Oil Changes a breeze when you know that the Bolt isn't going to be hard to muscle out of there.

Good advice using a 6-Point Socket to remove that Oil Filter Bolt. That's one of the easiest Hexes to round-off. So make sure you aren't using a 12-Point Socket at Oil Change time. Save yourself the aggravation of stripping it and having to get creative removing it.

 

I have already removed the filter and changed it--I didn't think of the Antiseize Lubricant (good idea on everything like this, just didn't remember about it). Do you think it's possible to ease it out of there enough to spray enough on without losing the oil? The PO obviously kept up on everything, and I suspect he did this as well because I had no trouble at all getting it off.

 

No ... do it next time.

 

Synthetic oil has been known to cause issues in an older engine that's lived it's life with dino-juice so far -- mainly because it's so good at what it does. Things like seal/gasket shrinkage, and cleaning away grunge that was keeping a seal sealed are the kind of stuff that causes leaks (and yes, I've had it happen - thankfully not on the bike).

However, as with everything, your experience may be different, and there's no way to tell for sure until you try it.

I like the bike-specific dino oils (if you can get them cheap), or failing that a good diesel oil like Shell Rotella.

 

I used Yamalube semi synthetic because it has the dino oils in it, and was hoping to get the best of both using it. Does the semi synthetic cause the same problems with the seals, or does the dino oil in it prevent that from happening?

 

I drained the oil and put valvoline bike-specific dino oil in. Didn't like how it was running on the Yamalube semi. The bike will only start in neutral, and shifting around to get it into neutral is a real pain. I was wondering if there's any way I can bypass that and get it to start from engaging the clutch? It's turning into a project--it hesitates on first (I never had a proble with my Maxim X). It seems as though there's a delay in gas when I hit the accelerator. I still must replace the plugs and a lot of other things, but everything is on it, must have been kept in a garage--a lot of the bike looks new. :!:

 

I just changed the plugs (were very bad), and connected what looked like a loose vacuum hose. When I drove off, the torque and speed were awesome, just like my old Maxim. I'm still smiling--I love these bikes!

 

migs:

If the Bike will only start when you are in Neutral ... that's a sympton that the Safety Relay isn't working Properly.

If the Safety Relay IS working right. You should be able to start the Bike IN Gear with the Clutch Lever Pulled.

Find the Safety Relay and replace it with a Genuine Yamaha SAFETY Relay. Be SURE you tell the Parts Guy its a SAFETY Relay you need because ALL the Relay's LOOK the same ... but, the SAFETY Relay is configured differently from a Regular Power Relay.

The Terminals to Open and Close the SAFETY Relay are completely different from a Generic Power relay.

 

Migs--I bet your petcock is "open" all the TIME, just like mine !
I did the $5 lawn mower cutoff valve.

"and connected what looked like a loose vac hose" ^^

 

Rick
I remember from my 86 that this wasn't normal (it is very irritating though). The Parts Guy at the local shop has no idea what I'm talking about, so I'll call the other one in a small city near here that I've had much better success with. The Parts Guy here said the only relay he could find was under the seat. The local Yamaha place acts like these bikes don't exist. There are other motorcycle shops in my city (in addition to the great dealership in a small city near here) who recognize the bike.
migs

 

There is a cable leading from the clutch grip that is loose. The cable simply comes off on the end where it is supposed to attach to the grip. That is likely where the problem is. At the end of the cable where it attaches is what looks like a metal prong, and it fits perfectly into where it's supposed to--its just very loose.

 

Hey guys, I see that the stripping of the bolt during an oil change is common. I just got my bike and started to winterize it, and as I went to change the oil I noticed the bolt is rounded over from the PO. I've tried everything that I know of to get it out, any suggestions?

 

My PO welded an old socket to the bolt, now it's easy to remove with an extension and ratchet, and I don't even have to find a socket!
I don't know if it was welded while on the bike.
throw a tube of anti-sieze goo in your toolbox.

 

I've used a hack saw to cut a slot into the head of the bolt to remove it. I replaced the unit at first opportunity. They are cheap ($13) and readily available.

 

That sounds like the clutch relay switch that allows the engine to start when in gear with the clutch pulled in. If it is loose then it isn't telling the relay that the clutch is pulled in, so the bike won't start. May have to find that on ebay.

 

how much oil should use when changing my oil in my 81, 650. I have the book at home, but Im at work and dont want to have to drive back to the parts store by my work to get oil.

 

I found it still being sold by Yamaha for $16 (really, I can't believe it either, but true!)

 

Thanks guys, I'll try cutting a slot in it, see if that works. I went out today and bought the new bolt. Hope this works.

 

If the Clip that holds that Clutch Switch is broken or will not hold the Switch securely in its place at the Clutch Lever ... Put the "Pointed end" of a Plastic Tie Wrap in the receptacle and "Press Fit" the barrel of the Switch into the receptacle.

Make the Tie Wrap take-up the difference in the Barrels Outside Diameter and push the Switch Barrel into the receptacle until it seats.

If one Tie Wrap isn't enough to hold it ... add another one and try it again until you have the Barrel pushed-into the receptacle and being held firmly in place by the "Wedges" of Plastic Tie Wrap.

Trim off the excess length of Tie Wrap to neaten-up the area once the Switch Barrel is FIRMLY seated into the receptacle where it belongs.

 

Rick
Thanks, much appreciated--I'll give this a try. It does look like a clip that's broken or loose, fits but not enough to even stay in place. Excellent advice!
migs