What the cat dragged home

This is what I've got...........

 

You are going to have to take that off again and see what is hanging up. She is stuck for some reason and it should be sliding on the pins so the brakes and pucks can do their jobs. When you rebuild the calipers you took them all the way down, cleaned up the pucks and got rid of all the nasty stuff inside the caliper to puck area? I see pics of the MC you cleaned but nothing of the caliper take down. I would guess if you just drained the fluid and did a flush you have some more issues down there. This is only because of the pic if what is going on and I didn't read that you took the calipers apart.

 

It is the caliper mounting bracket, that bolts to the fork slider, the piece of hardware that does not move, that is rubbing on the rotor; it is not the caliper body; that slides; that is in contact with the rotor. Thing is, when I first got it together, nothing rubbed, front wheel spun nice, no brake drag.

I suspect that the forks are twisted in the triple tree, after having the whole front end off to check and lube the steering head bearings, I suspect I did not get properly aligned , OR something not tight. Looking for some one to confirm or deny that hypotheses, and give me a good one man, shade tree, fork alignment procedure.

The pic of the cruddy MC was a bit of irony about the trouble I was having bleeding my brake system; the MC got cleaned. rebuilt, the calipers got cleaned and rebuilt, new hoses all the way down...........the irony was that an MC full of crap could be filled with fluid and system bled and produce a firm lever in less than 5 minutes, where as I worked for over an hour attempting to get a firm lever on basically a new system with zero results.

 

Check the fork alignment for good measure but how did you tighten the axle down? How are the wheel bearings? Check to make sure the spacer is on the inside of the bearings if you can.

 

Pin punch in the hole on one side, and torqued to spec. Checked bearings, they roll smooth, spacer is in place.

 

I would loosen the pinch bolt and the axle nut and start over. It is not necessary to put a punch in the hole at the end of the axle and could be causing some or all of your alignment troubles. Checking the fork alignment is still a good idea.

 

I believe per the FSM the left side of the 650 Seca is assembled as so, I did have difficulty finding good pics and info so this may not apply:

4. Tighten the axle nut and install a new cotter pin.

Axle nut torque: 10.7 m-kg (77.4 ft-lb)

NOTE: Tighten the pinch bolts temporarily before tightening the axle nut.

5. Install the front fender.

6. Before tightening the pinch bolts, stroke the front forks several times to make sure of proper fork operation. With the pinch bolts loose, work the left fork leg back and forth until the proper clearance between the disc and caliper bracket are obtained.



7. Tighten the left and right pinch bolts.

Axle pinch bolt torque: 2.0 m-kg (14.5 ft-lb)

 

Took everything apart, inspected, all looks good. Realigned forks, did a change in order of operations of things that get tightened up. Hot lapped it in the yard/driveway, see how it goes.

 

I learned something new, thanks for posting about this, I have never head of the disk hitting do to the forks being out of whack.

 

What I did was re-read the mounting procedure for the front wheel and realized you pry the left fork leg back and forth to achieve clearance between the rotor and the bracket.......DUH

It's hell when you've been away from bikes for almost 20 years

Gonna put the bike on the road today...............

 

Just came back from short ride to gas station and 5 miles down the road and back........gotta get used to turn signals, I'm an arm waver, hand signaler from way back..........got some clutch drag, 10-30 Penzoil in it now......Suggestions for something else??

 

Is that a motorcycle specific oil?

from k-moe's sig http://xjbikes.com/forums/index.php...orrect-oil-for-a-wet-clutch-motorcycle.43702/

 

This is what it looks like now

 

OOOPPPSSS!! It was 5-30 Penzoil and I did not find notation of meets "JASO MA" on the bottle, guess I'm going shopping

 

Rotella T4 for conventional oil or T6 for synthetic are we reviewed oils, but there are many options for oils.

 

Looking for suggestions for tires, the one's on the bike now gotta be 20 years old; don't think it would be wise to keep them. They are Bridgestone's, Battlaxk BT45 front and rear. I know nothing about these, good, bad, ok, is there something better( I know that is very subjective ) wear, stick, ride......educate me.

Thanks

 

If it's clutch drag (difficut shifting) and not slip (RMP climbs with no increase in road speed), then you probably need to adjust (or maybe even replace) the clutch cable.
Adjustment proceure covered within (yes, even for the 550): Reassembly of Clutch Cover - '82 XJ750J Maxim


As for tires, what sort of riding do you do?

 

I did an oil change yesterday to Shell Rotella, much better.

I like to swoop a turn, not a knee drager by any stretch of imagination, if that tells you anything

 

Working on the Silver bike now, changing fluids, filters, grease, rebuild M/C and calipers. Got a question. The silver bike has stock Seca exhaust system; how do you access the middle cavity drain plug and more to the point, how do you screw it back in???? I don't have a lift, so I'm groveling on the floor, almost see where the plug goes, but the exhaust collector is a huge interference! Black bike has 4 into 1 exhaust, no problem. I can see where this cavity might not get drained very often. What is the trick I'm missing??

Thanks

 

you leave it alone many problems if you attempt to remove it.it may strip out the threads

stick with the drain plug on oil pan