Clear coat over enamel paint?

Hey everyone. I hope some of you experienced painters can help me. I want to paint my bike this spring and am thinking of using enamel paint (plasti-kote tractor and implement brand). But, I don't know if there is a specific clear coat I should use, or if I should use a clear coat at all. I've read the enamel paints are hard as rock, and may not need the clear coat as a protection. Also, I want to make sure that if I use a clear it's resistant to gas spills and such. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Muttly

 

Muttly,
I painted mine last winter and used Dupli-color high heat clear that was supposed to be gas resistant. I found that it is to a degree, if you wipe the gas off right away. If it sits on the tank fo rany length of time, it will leave a stain. You will be able to buff out the stains, but I'd just rather find a cheap clearcoat (probably some brand that uses a hardner) and do it right. I'm not sure if the implement paint brands offer a clear or not? I know their the brand that is sold locally up here (St. Cloud) offers a hardner for the paint and it turns out a shiny as a new car and stands up very well to the elements. A friend of mine painted his truck with it and it looked like new.
I woud go that route if I wanted just one or two colors, but with the air brushing and graphics I have planned for it, I will need a clear to go over everything. Good luck! .PD<

 

if you use implement paint, just thin it with high gloss deck repellant(i.e. Thompson's, PPG, whatever). My ex's grampa does it all the time when he refinishes garden tractors and they just glow!!!

 

Dwcopple,
Thanks for the info! But, how does it stand up to gas spills? >PD<

 

Industrial and implement paint are single stage paints. They have a clear mixed into them, which makes them appear glossy when dry, and are not meant to be clear coated over. They will dull and fade from the sun (like cars from the 70's and earlier look before base coat clear coat paints), chemicals, and solvents, but are easily brought back to original shine with a little buffing. Not saying it won't work or look great, but adding another layer of paint to something that’s not supposed to have it, only increases chances of problems like peeling, especially when crossing brands. Lots of clear coats today are enamels, which are very tough and resistant to daily automotive abuse.

 

I had my tank, both fenders and a bunch of other metal parts powder coated. Available in just about any color and can withstand a lot more than any paint. If you have it painted a color that they have on the line already, most laces will coat it pretty cheap. I paid about 80 for the tank and fenders. Good luck.

 

Painting a frame can be tricky to do right, but there's no way to learn except for doing. Give it a try, paint is cheap.

I decided to go with a powdercoat. $150 to do everything except the fenders and tank.

 

Man, I wish it were that cheap here. My last quote was $400 a few years ago for just the frame and fork head.

 

That $150 included the wheels and headlights, and all the pegs. He even did the heads of alot of my bolts.

 

Heck, invest that $150.00 in your own equipment and do your own! I just picked up one of these and have been having a BLAST finding things to powder coat. Pick one up, a $20.00 toaster oven for small parts and a $5.00 garage sale electric home oven for bigger stuff.

Home Powder Coat kit