Non running 82 XJ550R

This may be a post that you've all seen a hundred times, but being new, I'm going to ask it again...

I just picked up an 82 XJ550R that has 14k on the odo and is not running. The battery is weak, but is turning the crank over. Here is what I plan on doing...with the idea of cheaper and easier first and then evolving (if necessary) to more expensive and difficult. I will replace the battery and plugs, drain the fuel and add fresh fuel and give that a try.

What order of checks / repairs would you guys do to get this bike running? Is there anything else you would do along with what I've mentioned? What are the next steps assuming it does not run?

I'm no engine expert, but I'm generally mechanically inclined and have always worked on my bikes myself, but never acquired a bike with an unknown past that wasn't running. By the way, the PO stated that he last started the bike 4 months ago. It has been stored outside in a covered carport in So Cal (ie warm and dry).

Thanks in advance!

 

Keep it simple to start: 1)spark, 2)fuel, 3)air. BTW, these bikes are known to turn over but not fire up without a fully charged battery.

 

I would say after going throught this all no more than 3 months ago, the order I would do is as follows:

1. Do as you aready have planned
2. Clean those carbs (you may find this a must depending on if you get it started or not)
3. Tune with colortune and YiCS tool (a for sure must!!!!)
4. Oil change w/filter
5. Air filter
6. Change brake fluid (mine looked horrible)
7. Lube the chain or replace if needed
8. Grease the tree and the axles
9. Remove old fuse box and replace with new blade type
10. Depends on how beat up it is, etc. You could put some money in new tires, carb boots, seat due to weathering, the list goes on and on.

You do have a sweet bike though! Love my 81' 550

 

Bike came with the YICS tool. Need to get the Colortune. I might have one from a '72 Datsun 240z I used to own.

Also came with a spare engine, carbs, forks, wheels all for $600. Pretty sweet. Already upgraded to blade fuses. Also, it has pod type air filters which I assume I can clean and re-oil with a K&N kit, no?

Is the carb removal/cleaning a big deal? Do I need a rebuild kit or is it just general cleaning?

Thanks!

 

Rebuilding carbs can be pretty time consuming, but not too difficult. Granted I'm not sure of your abilities either. You will want to follow Rick-o-matics instructions for doing this. Most of the time I spent was spraying the parts off with carb cleaner and using q-tip and small brushes to clean them out and off. Granted my whole bike has sat for 18 year and never had anything done to it. It looked like someone poured honey into all the carbs and then let it harden. It was a mess, but they are all cleaned up now, and look great. A petcock rebuild kit and tank liner kit was needed for mine. That helped a bunch. Sounds like you got a great deal with all those extra parts. This forum has tons of really smart people that can surely answer all your questions.

 

Oh almost forgot, check your jets when you have those carbs apart. With pods you will need to rejet to make it run right. You will need to consult with the Modifications forum people to figure out what others have used to do this. I know they can be super tricky to get right.

 

UPDATE:

Last night, I picked up a new battery, popped it in and gave it a go. Starter is sounding strong, but no fire. So I figured I'd let the battery get a full charge on it using my Battery Tender.

Meanwhile, I pulled the gas tank and drained it. It looks like someone might have attempted to Kreem the tank at one point, but it looks a bit flaky. Also, there is a pretty significant weld bead around the base of the tank that I'll want to grind/fill to make pretty (that's for another day).

By the way, is there a fuel filter somewhere? In the tank maybe?

Put new plugs in it. It had 9s in it, but I went back to 8s. Put fresh gas in the tank (petcock is flowing smoothly on PRI).

Next AM, I turned the key and voltmeter is showing roughly 12V (a little low, no?). Pulled the choke. Cranked it.....again, strong crank but no fire. I pulled plug one and checked for spark and she's sparking. So I guess next step is to pull the carbs.

There is a part of me that would love to hear it fire up at least once before I pull the carb (not sure why). Does it make any sense to try some ether in the carbs? What about attempting a Seafoam carb clean on the bike?

Thoughts?

Thanks!

 

You are doing it all in the right order. It's nice to get one to fire right off, but it doesn't happen all that often. I think you are going to find a fair amount of crud in the carbs. I'll bet the pilot jets are clogged.

 

If you want to just hear it fire, take a propane torch and stick it in the intake slot under the seat. Not lit of course and turn it over. It you have spark, you will most likely get it to fire. Seafoam on carbs works great as long as they aren't too clogged. If it won't even fire once, I'm betting you'll need to be a little more extensive with a carb clean than seafoam.

 

I've got the individual pod filters on each carb, so the propane wouldn't work for me. I might try the seafoam just for kicks. If nothing else, it will get the cleaning process started.

Should be easy to pull the carbs with those individual filters as opposed to the airbox connector.

Quick question...when I've got the carbs off, I'd like to replace the hoses between the carb and engine. They look like regular short rubber hoses maybe 1.5" OD. Anyone have the specs on those? Can I just pick up a length of hose at the auto shop or do I have to get the Yamaha OEM parts?

I'm at work, so I'm working from memory.

If I can't replace them (very cheaply), what do you recommend to recon them? I like to make things look as new as possible while I have access to them. I'm a bit anal.

Thanks?

 

I knew you had pod filters. Sorry I missed that! You should try opening the drain screws on the bottom of the carbs to see if you get any gas out of them. You might possibly have a blockage in the fuel line. You cannot replace the Carb intake boots with hose. They aren't made that way at all. You can find new ones on Ebay for $75 for all 4. I will warn you that the screws the hold those on are soft and might shear off on you. Then you'll have some serious problems. If it ain't broke dont fix it. You can take some black sealant and fill cracks in them if there are any. Good luck!!

 

After you get the bike running good go though and check every nut, bolt and screw you see for tightness. Make sure all cotter pins are in place. This includes axle nuts front and back. I found a pin missing on the rod that runs from the brake housing to the frame. The nut was loose and could be removed by hand. I rode for two years like this. I even did a nut and bolt shake down when I first got the bike but missed this one that was close to the frame. I guess I got lucky this time!!

 

Update part deux:

Cheated and used some starter fluid in the intake. Bike fired and ran, but only with choke full out even after warm. Put my mind at ease though and sounded real nice and throaty

Pulled the carbs and disassembled and cleaned. They didn't look too dirty, but the plungers were a little sticky. I laid a coat of WD-40 all over everything after cleaning with carb cleaner.

I haven't re-installed yet, but I noticed that there are short tubes pointing up from the intake header (between carb and engine). Numbers 2, 3, and 4 are capped, but number one is not capped. What gives? Should I cap number one?

Also noticed that right turn signals blink, but left turn signals no blinky. Rear signal is missing (haven't replaced yet). Is that causing the no blinky lefty condition?

We're making progress...thanks to all of you!

I can't wait to take this bike for its first spin around the block!

One last thing...I hate philips head screws. They always strip. I had to resort to an impact driver to loosen a few on the carbs. Anyone know of where I can find some allen head replacement screw sets for the carbs?

 

The #3 intake manifold brass port (nipple) should have a vacuum hose attached to it that runs to fuel petcock under the gas tank. The petcocks are these bikes are "automatic" and depend on a vacuum signal to torn on and off.

In fact, without a vacuum line on that intake running to the petcock, the petcock would never turn "on" when the engine is started, unless the petcock is set to the PRI (Prime) position, in which case fuel will flow with or withou a vacuum signal, but it's a risky way to go, because if one of the carb float inlet valves goes bad or gets stuck open, fule will continue to run into (and then out of) the bowl, and eventually ends up in the crankcase with the oil, and then...........

BOOM! It's new engine time if you don't catch it.

I carry both OEM and aftermarket replacement vacuum line and the little scissors clips for them, as well as the allen head replacement screws. Let me know which ones you need, as I haven't had time to list the Mikuni carb screws yet, all that is listed are the ones for the Hitachi (650/750) carbs, but some are the same.

http://www.xjbikes.com/Forums/viewtopic ... t=135.html

 

The tube without the cap is a vaccuum source for the petcock. There should be 2 lines exiting your petcock. The larger diameter line is the fuel supply line,the smaller diameter line attaches to an intake manifold "tube" that supplies vaccuum to the petcock when the engines pistons are in motion. Vaccuum is needed to open the diapraghm inside the petcock,allowing fuel to flow.Hope this helps,and good luck!

 

Yep! Duh!

I was looking at it after I removed the carb and just forgot that that was where the vacuum line connected. Thanks for responding so quickly.

 

Oh, and the vacuum line from the petcock can go to any of the intake manifold port nipples, not just #3.....so you can run the vac line from your petcock to the #1 cylinder if you don't want to swap around the blind cap plug that is already on your #3 intake.

Your left blinkers don't blink because of the lack of a left rear blinker! The relay that controls the blinkers is a mechanical type, and requires a certain amount of current draw through it to heat up the bi-metal spring within and get it to break contact, i.e. to make the circuit "blink". Without that rear blinker in place, there's not enough current draw just through only the front bulb to heat up the relay contact enough to force it to start blinking......

 

Thanks for all of the help.

 

You will need all of the elements in position for the correct resistance/current to effect the flasher relay. Because your right side works, you have verified the integrity of the relay. But you will need to get another signal reinstalled to get the left side to work.

I use the replacement stainless steel screws but a cap-head SS 4mm would be a reasonable replacement. McMaster Carr has everything and can ship within hours. I would also suggest the procurement of plastic caps to cover the cap-head to keep water out.
Another source of replacement fasteners is Chacal. He stocks the OEM screws and other stuff.

Can't wait to see the finished product!

 

Thanks all!

The bike is fairly cool to start. The PO modded up a cafe racer style fairing and seat section. Just needs some cosmetic touch-ups. I'll try to get some pics up this weekend.

One thing...

Bike currently has clip on bars and the original handlebar clamp is still just sitting on top of the triple tree and looks unfinished. I can either swap back to drag or clubman style bars, or I can keep the clip ons and replace the triple tree or grind down the original bar "cradle". Any thoughts...suggestions. Does anyone make a clean triple tree that will work?

 

Here is a pic:

 

Update:

Cleaned the carbs last night and tonight did a bench synch.

Reinstalled the carbs, petcock on pri, choke out...a little starter fluid...and pow...she's purring.

Nice throttle response. Choking a little carbon out the pipe, but first start in 4 months...not so bad.

One of the pod air filters tore when I was re-installing. Anyone have a recommendation on the best pod replacements?

 

oh man very cool! wow dude. thats a really cool cafe style you got there man! hope you get that running really well. im sure ease will be your new friend here. (cafe dude)

 

yes, you can grind the top triple or swap with one from a xs400 maxim or seca as their risers are bolt on. UNI pod filters are the best hands down. and also you should consider dumping that WHOPPING cluster of gauges for some from MikesXS.com

 

I'm really wanting to swap out the gauge/instrument cluster and was looking at mikesxs, but it says it will only work with 650s. Is that not the case? BTW, I was looking specifically at the cluster #03-0655



UPDATE:

Maiden voyage was Saturday morning around the hood. Still needs some tuning. We spent yesterday tearing down the front end and cleaning and polishing and painting all the bits. This is officially my wife's bike, but I may have to take it back if it ends up too cool.

 

I'm going to go out on a limb here and tell you (sight unseen) that you can mate a 650 cluster to a 750 or 550. It is simply a matter of what you want to have in the end. The stocker on the 550 has a voltmeter and a fuel gauge if I remember right. These will of course go away but you do need to observe the mechanical side of things with particular care. The speedo cable and tach cable should have the same fittings as the XS unit so I don't think you will have issues there but I cannot guarantee the fitment. Mounting seems to be pretty universal between the years and models so I suspect you won't have issues there. And while I can not say that this will be a drop in, I offer my assistance with the install should you choose to go the mikesxs route. I believe that this swap is very do-able, have you contacted the vendor for better pictures or technical specs?

 

I e-mailed the vendor and got the following response:

Do not know since we have not tried it on other models. Wiring and mounting bracket would surely be different.

Not really much info in the response, but I think you're correct in that it would be workable. As long as I get the tach and speedo working, I'll be happy. I can always take the stock voltmeter and fuel gauges and "transfer" them to the panel on the cluster in question.

Better yet, I might just buy individual speedo and tach and make my own mount for them. The little chrome speedo they sell has built in high, neutral and turn indicators.

Thanks for the offer of help. I'll probably take you up on it.

 

Really looking forward to hearing how this goes, as my only complaint about my bike is the giant lump of plastic hovering above the bars.

 

Fat load of good the support was (How much do they pay the hired help?). They could have at least offered a measurement of the mounting tabs. The fuel and voltmeter swap sounds interesting but if you look into the archives under Woots posts, there is a wonderful product that supplies these functions digitally and was reasonably priced (under $30). I have the link at home, I'll see if I can't rustle it up for you.
Good luck on cleaning up those gauges, be careful and take your time.