82' xj750 maxim repairs.

All of the jets are the correct size except for the pilot AIR jets, which should be the #205 for Canadian XJ750 carbies……..the #195 size is for XJ650 engines:


HITACHI PILOT AIR JETS:

The pilot air jets on all Hitachi HSCxx series carbs are located under the vacuum piston diaphram, and are a small, brass "headless" screw-in jet. On some model carbs, these air jets live under a small, curved "cover plate" which is retained by a special shouldered screw (most later-model Hitachi carbs seem to have dispensed with this air jet cover plate, although its threaded mounting hole still remains in the carb body).

Replacement Hitachi pilot air jets are now available for these model carbs, in both their original sizes and in optional "tuning" sizes for use with pod filters or other special tuning purposes.


#195: all 1980-81 all XJ650 North American models, all 1982 XJ650RJ and RJC Seca, all 1980-82 XJ650 UK/European (4K0 and 4K1) models, and all XJ650 Police (37G) and XJ750 Police (24L and 37H) models.

#205: all 1982-84 XJ650 Maxim North American models, 1982-84 XJ650 UK/European (11N) models, 1981-83 XJ750 Canadian models, and 1981-84 XJ750 UK/European (11M) models.

 

bread ties = bred tie

 

Careful. We don't want any baby ties running around underfoot.

 

Thanks for that! the kit i ordered is from the US so i dont think they are included but i will order some proper air jets

as long as its not family bred, its okay i think.


I also found some boots locally, which was a huge shot in the dark. The new vs old.

 

been working crazy hours with all the tower cranes having to come down right now at work but i have had parts showing up. Found some brand new brake pads on craigslist, got the carb rebuild kit finally, fork seals since i definitely tried to fill them up at the gas station and blew them up.... oh well, by the color of the fork oil they are in a dire need to be changed anyway. I ordered a 4 prong fuse box to replace the rats nest the previous owner made. Its soldered atleast but its just sloppy n gross looking. The fuse box may be a bit too tall, so im going to see where i can maybe place it, or if it'll fit under the seat..

For now i just tackled getting the carbs finished and installed, new boots in, new inline filter and hoses installed, tank back on and a test fire. She fired up nice and seems to run a lot more smooth. I havent gotten it outside yet to re adjust the idle mixture or whatever but she seems happy for like 5-10 seconds she ran in the basement. heres some pics i got. some might be sideways..

 

Only parts i had to change in the carbs was the needle valves and the screened jet? nut looking part that the fuel flows through, and the #43 jets since i had one i was suspect about. Other then that everything seemed fine and just needed a good cleaning.... also got impatient and re-assembled before the parts i could change for the sake of it arrived.

 

oh and heres the ratsnest..tinder..BOMB.. or whatever ya wanna call it haha..

 

Eeeeeeewwwww

 

haha yea its a damn mess for suuuure

 

Throttle shaft seals checked out OK? Supple?

 

Im not entirely sure what you mean by throttle shaft seals, I dont know the technical aspects of carbs very well yet, first time ever cleaning one.


EDIT: just watched some videos to fin d out what you meant, and to be honest i didnt get that far into them this time. This bike will be getting a lot of work over the winter, including engine tear down and what not. I thought i could get away with just a decent good cleaning of them for the last 2 months until i get 6 months to work on this thing in the basement. The linkage and all the shafts seemed fine, and didnt damage them while cleaning.

 

Plan on doing them this winter.
Why you should replace butterfly (throttle shaft) seals.


Why the engine teardown? If internal work needs to be done then there's no reason to make her run until that's been completed.

 

I will for sure go through the rest of the carbs this winter, and I have all the parts from the full rebuild kit already on hand ( although I may need some more parts for the throttle shafts)

I have no reason to believe the motor needs to be torn down at all. Runs good, but just has 62k km on it and with what I can see on the top of the piston through the spark plug hole, I can tell it could use a good cleaning and once over most likely. I don't think I'll need to rebuild anything ,but a good fresh set of seals, a solid clean, and maybe a cam chain or something at 62k km is probably a good idea I'd think?

 

Also thanks for that write up. At a glance looks very helpfull. Will give a full read later.

 

At 62,000 KM the engine is barely through 1/4 of its expected life before needing a major service. Leave her insides alone for now. Teardown and reassembly is a big chore, and a lot can go wrong in the process.

 

whoa okay, thanks for the knowledge. I didnt think these motors would have such a long life. I will definitely focus on other aspects of the bike then.

 

Today i was at the bike salvage yard by my house just basking in the new glory of heaven that this place is.. and stumbled upon this gauge cluster in the drawer of yamaha clusters. Mine has none of the warning systems still connected and i dont really plan on going through fixing it and i really like this style cluster. It had 81 xs1100 written on it but from a google search it seems a bit different but im not sure, currently trying to find a wiring diagram for it so i can identify each wire and wire it into my current harness.

I spent a bit of time going through my harness today identifying everything i need and making sure i dont cut anything i need out, still got more to do but this cluster doesnt require much. Turn signals, tach, speedo (mech.), power for lights, neutral light and high beam. It will require me to wire in the connector for my headlight ( since the OE one comes out from the cluster ) which i plan to cut from the cluster and use. With the wiring diagram im sure i can find a suitable power source, and i have an empty ground connector from the old aux lamp i can use to ground it. Ill have to figure out how the high beam switch is wired in so that works as well ( thank god for the haynes wiring diagrams ! ) Wont be quick but i think itll be a big upgrade to the look im going for.

 

Not sure why they upload sideways.. they aren't sideways on my computer or phone..

 

Also it appears the cluster is from a 79 xs1100 not a 81

 

There's more to do if you want it to start up with your new cluster.

Here's the wiring mods to remove the rectangular instruments
The writeup is for the Seca, but the Maxim wiring is similar.