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What did you do to your Yamaha today?

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Cutlass84, Jun 4, 2007.

  1. Simmy

    Simmy Well-Known Member

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    any You-Tube video I've seen demonstrating this involves boiling the parts on a Bunson burner, something impossible with an entire motor. I've not actually read of anyone having success with this. I wouldn't waste anytime with this. Best method is to thread a nut onto the remaining threads and weld the stud to the nut. Make sure there is some gap between the nut and the head or else it will tighten up when the weld cools. Heat it and go slow, candle wax can assist in penetrating the threads.

    You must enter the church of clean. Take many pics of your carbs as they come apart. Your carbs are approaching 40 years old and have rubber parts which need replacing.
    XJ550H summarized recently in another post in just a couple sentences what is needed.
     
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  2. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    The carbs are not that bad. I've worked on WAY more complicated car carbs. The linkages will only fit back together one way, just do each carb in it's own bin, numbered. The jets should be diagrammed as you remove them to make it easy, there's only two metering jets you could accidentally swap. The worst part of all of it is stuck screws, especially bowl drain screws and the peened brass butterfly screws. I've removed stripped bowl drain and brace screws with my TIG if you need help with that. If you are concerned about doing it yourself there are people on the group that will do a complete rebuild for-fee.
     
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  3. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    I'm bummed my AGM battery looks like it toast have had it on charge for 3 days , will crank a couple of times and fires if it catches and you can hear it running down. I've got a little over 2 seasons ,almost 3 so got my money out of it. So ordered a new battery 94$ with S&H ,suppose I could have waited but I'm impatient and well when you have a good standing with paypal credit abuse it a little more :D
     
  4. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    AGM are use and toss storage. If you go with the wet flooded cell you can use a desulfator on the battery while it is being maintained and used to keep the plates clear of lead sulfate binding. You can also restore 70-80% capacity of most "dead" wet cells that have not had plates exposed to air and do not have shorted cells. Most of the 10Khz AC reconditioners work well, they just take a while.
     
  5. kerriskandiesinc

    kerriskandiesinc Active Member

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    I've had great success with Optimate AGM in the past...

    As with most things.....mechanical/electrical, I think if your ( my) XJ is ridden most everyday....incl Winter months, you could see 4+ years out of your battery....I have, in the past, with a wet cell Yuasa.....as I dont ride like that now, I am seeing less 'mileage' from my batteries, whether on trickle charger or not
     
  6. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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  7. kerriskandiesinc

    kerriskandiesinc Active Member

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    10ah.....does it turn over the XJ quickly??
     
  8. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    it hasn't failed me yet. it does start easily though
    the bad part is soldering the terminals on
     
  9. kerriskandiesinc

    kerriskandiesinc Active Member

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    Brazing would probably be better, no?

    Can you 'load' this in any position, like sealed AGM??

    the 12AH looks like a very good price.....!
     
  10. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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    kerriskandiesinc likes this.
  11. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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  12. kerriskandiesinc

    kerriskandiesinc Active Member

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    Tight fit!! ?
     
  13. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    SLA are sealed flooded cell, not AGM. That is a different chemistry.
     
  14. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Not true. I'm wrong, The SLA are often AGM but not marked that way. It's tougher to desulfate AGM since the mat physically touches the plates.
     
  15. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    So it really looked like the battery ,was very slow to crank and even with my battery charger only marginally better , finally only the solenoid clicking . Put new battery in ...and only click, pulled starter and put spare starter in and fired right up :rolleyes:....I pulled starter apart burnt brushes ...this starter was off my spare engine , i used it because i liked the black finish ...well i have rebuild kit i will have to dig out ....and have a perfectly good battery , I'm leaving the new battery in the bike . Well that is how it usually goes for me spend more than i have to ,I did not use the KISS principle i should have pulled starter oh well live and learn :D
     

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  16. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Looks like the brushes are short on life. Get a battery load tester from harbor freight. Well worth the cost to make sure the battery actually is marginal on cranking amps.
     
  17. kerriskandiesinc

    kerriskandiesinc Active Member

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    Just did the starter, brushes, re cut/polished the armature/commutator, she spins like a whirling dervish now !!

    Definitely worth doing
     
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  18. Jetfixer

    Jetfixer Well-Known Member

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    I never tore this starter apart , it worked okay till I was in Houston for a week . I went to start bike and it barely cranked . I put new battery in and have it on my digital trickle charger when I came home this evening ,hit start button fired up right away so I'm a happy camper.
     
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  19. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Finished replacing the two inner mix screws, retune and resync. Seems much better at wot and holding mid revs. Test ride on Sat to see how it behaves without choke.
     
  20. Wayne Stuart-Cole

    Wayne Stuart-Cole Member

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    Unsuccessful attempt to get the carbs back in, assembled the left hand handlebar assembly with all the bits, removed the last brackets from previous owners rack, put a rear indicator on, discovered all the repairs on the old fuel tank.
     

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