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1982 XJ550 Maxim rebuild

Discussion in 'XJ Technical Chat' started by Ryengoth, Mar 1, 2019.

  1. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Tuned the carbs on an IV last night and pulled the tank petcock off. Got the pipes about the same temp and as cool as I could. I can almost grab the pipes at idle, just a tad too hot. Will see how close I am when I get the colortune kit. Revs fine now and feels balanced. The gauges won't lie though. Still have to order a set. The chain has stretched already just from stand runs so I'll be adjusting that tonight. I might get a quick start and run video to post. The side stand diode is half shot so I will have to play a plug-and-pull dance to get it all to work on video without roasting the block more.
     
  2. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Wiring fixed. Going to try to get the tank petcock working correctly and tighten up the chain. If it's not too late I may get a first ride video, barring more issues.
     
  3. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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  4. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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  5. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    So, limited engagement of clutch at rev and shifting up is like trying to move a rock Downshifting is fine. I suspect the oil was absorbed by the friction plates since they were pretty dry, none has leaked out and the level was low. As far as the shifting issues could that be related to the plates not grabbing or am I looking at transmission work now?
     
  6. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Cable adjustment and replaced oil/filter from break-in. Much better, but the carbs still need tuning.

     
  7. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    4-gauge vacuum set is in. Carb sync tonight or tomorrow and video maybe.
     
  8. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Was your clutch slipping?
     
  9. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    Yeah, it still is if you goose it. It's no problem catching speed on upshift across the gears but you can't goose it in second to pull hard. I think the assembly lube got into the plates before the oil had a chance. Gonna have to replace them at some point to get full power out of it. For now, it's fine. I'm a noob so I've gotta learn the bike and how to ride at the same time anyway. So far it's a well balanced bike, not too heavy to learn and still will take my 215lb butt down the road fast and stop fast too.
     
  10. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    I thought so but once you get it sorted it will be fine. A friend of mine rebuilt a Honda 250 Dream years ago to replace the cam chain and got the balancer shafts out. Had to strip the engine again. Clutch is an easy fix compared to that lol. We have all been there.
     
    Last edited: Nov 2, 2019
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  11. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    The oil filter cover is leaking now so I need to drain the oil again and swap the O-ring at some point. I'll just pull the clutch cover, replace the stack and repaint the cover all at the same time. I took it out for another ride after trying to sync the carbs, still off. I ran so nice before the airbox was put on. Popping like crazy under no-choke and both #2/#3 mix screws have stripped heads now due to soft metal and angle of attack from the frame being in the way. Guess I'll be pulling those out and see if the parts stack has 2 decent ones left. Need to find my mini-ratchet and use it with an insert bit instead.
     
  12. Polock

    Polock Well-Known Member

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  13. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Same here my mixture screws are damaged so I need to get some but no rush I will get the bike rebuilt over winter.
     
  14. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    My wife has plenty of nail polish. Seeing it isn't the issue. The issue is the angle of attack to carbs 2 and 3 mix screws. The frame tubes are directly over each carb there so I don't have a straight shot into the jet channel to get the screw, plus it's like 1/4" down into the carb so you can tap a plug in over top of it. You can try to hit it with a narrow slotted driver and "cam" it or try to use a mini driver that will fit between the carb and the frame (not much space). Cam-driving them has stripped the already widened slots out due to it being really soft brass. If I can get them out without removing the carbs I'll be lucky.
     
  15. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Here is a right angled one? Depends on how often you will use it I suppose.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sealey-C...036344&hash=item5207c93f6d:g:gucAAOSwhuxavVd~
     
  16. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    If the screw head is in decent shape it's fine as long as you are easy with them. The 2 I replaced in from the carb parts have new screw heads and were a breeze to dial-in. Running pretty good after a resync and retune.
     
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  17. Franz

    Franz Well-Known Member

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    Good you got it running well.
     
  18. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    7" LED replacement installed.

    [​IMG]

    Low Beam
    [​IMG]

    High Beam
    [​IMG]
     
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  19. Timbox

    Timbox Well-Known Member

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    Nice! I did that on another bike and I think I will do it to more in the future. They are a nice upgrade and easy to install, for the most part. Looks good.
     
  20. Ryengoth

    Ryengoth Active Member

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    For $55 with free shipping I can't complain. Very heavy duty housing and PC lens. I still have to aim it. The bucket is all the way forward so hopefully it is fine where it is. I am working on a DC-DC regulator for the headlight circuit to eliminate the AC strobing from the 1980's power circuit. It's not a disco ball..
     

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